As a travel writer and television host, I specialize in Europe. But last summer, I went to Iran for 12 days to produce a public television special, “Rick Steves’ Iran: Yesterday and Today.” It was the most surprising and fascinating land I've ever visited. I knew next to nothing about Iran when I started. I learned plenty.
Early in the trip, it was clear that the people of Iran would be the biggest joy of my visit — everyone was mellow, quick to smile and very courteous. I saw pride and dignity in the people on the street. And I discovered that, while they might not agree with American foreign policy, Iranians were welcoming to American people. In a country that supposedly hates the USA, my nationality was a real plus absolutely everywhere I went.
It was also obvious that Iran was not a free society. Iranians have willingly traded away their freedom for a theocracy, which many believe protects their deeply held values. One middle-aged woman — who clearly thought Western ways have turned America’s youth into sex toys, drug addicts and crass materialists — walked across the street specifically to tell me, “We just don’t want our children raised to be Britney Spears.”
But there's another side to Iran. Over half of its 70 million people are under 30. Young Iranians seem to ignore the outdated, anti-Western propaganda loudly trumpeting messages of hate, but use the Internet to get a more balanced view on the West. I sensed that many people were patiently making do under a repressive regime.
Today the relatively peaceful Iran I experienced is in turmoil. And it is those more worldly Iranians — seeking a moderate, freer government without abandoning their Islamic values — who are at the forefront of the protests. The events of the last two weeks have led me to rethink my impressions of Iran. It's far too early to speculate about cause and effect, but as someone who has recently traveled to Iran, I have a few hunches.
During my visit, I sensed that the Iranians would eventually win their freedom — but it had to be on their own terms. Crucially, what's going on today in Iran is an organic process, not brought about by foreign meddling. This gives it a legitimate chance of success, and our stance so far of avoiding active involvement is the smartest approach.
And yet, I like to think that the U.S. has contributed in some way to the cause of Iranian freedom. When I was in Iran and our own presidential election was heating up, it occurred to me that the Bush policy (seemingly shared by Republican candidate John McCain) of tough-talking rhetoric might actually empower Iran's leaders to more effectively preach their message of fear and hate. But under the Obama administration, our government's attitude about how to engage the Muslim world has changed. President Barack Obama's stated philosophy of respect and listening makes it harder to demonize the U.S., and the "Death to America" chants don't seem quite as full-throated as they once were. I have to wonder if our president's more respectful stance toward the Muslim world might have had some positive effect on current events there.
I do find it fascinating that rather than our government radicalizing the Iranian masses, it's the Iranian government doing the radicalizing. And by drawing a line in the sand, as their Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei did last week, they may have underestimated their young population's passion for freedom.
I hope Iran's supreme leader remembers how history has taught us that moderate movements for change can morph into serious revolutions ... especially when blood is shed. A violent repression could escalate the opposition, and give "clerical error" a new and much grander meaning.
As I left Iran last summer, departing in the wee hours from Tehran’s Khomeini Airport, I remember sensing the relief of my mostly Iranian fellow passengers as we boarded the Air France jet. Women pulled off the headscarves that "mandated modesty" had compelled them to wear on Iranian soil, and the flight attendants poured wine freely.
Iranians want to be free, but they also want to protect their culture. As Iran struggles to find that balance, the rest of the world watches, waits ... and hopes.
Have you visited Iran? Would you like to in the future? And what’s your take on the situation unfolding this month? Share your impressions in the comments section.
Rick Steves (http://www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and radio. E-mail him at rick@ricksteves.com.
I visited Iran in March and was pleasantly surprised with how the country had been developing. I agree that the youth are very eager for a more free government and a country where they can thrive, but they don't necessarily want to get rid of their culture and Islamic values. They feel isolated from the world and are anxiously waiting to be a part of it. I pray that this conflict will be resolved soon and they can find a happy medium.
[Source: Travel Blog] quoted: When I was in Iran and our own presidential election was heating up, it occurred to me that the Bush policy (seemingly shared by Republican candidate John McCain) of tough-talking rhetoric might actually empower Iran's leaders
I am an American woman married to an Iranian man for more than 26 years and we reside in the U.S. I was fortunate enough to be able to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary in Iran, with my Iranian in-laws, in March of 2008. It was my first trip to Iran and one I had planned for a very long time. I was there for six weeks and it was truly a trip of a lifetime! And even though I was prepared for the incredible historical sites and history that is everywhere you turn in Iran - I was not prepared for the people. I thought I was - but I was wrong. Their hospitality and kindness to me was humbling. From my relatives to the shopkeepers to the taxi drivers to the strangers on the street -- no matter where I went, people were friendly, curious, helpful, genuinely kind, and were more than willing to carry on a conversation with me. I saw the most fantastic sites all the way from the Caspian Sea to Shiraz. And the food ... AWESOME!!! I can't wait to go back! They are a strong, educated people with a rich history and a richer culture. My thoughts are with them at this time.
i live in Iran and just want to tell you that the real life and mind and culture of iranians is very very diferrent with what you see in Iran govermental TVs and news. Here in iran people need freedom. However they hope to have it one day. but in fact almost the all ways to freedom are closed. people here, like usa citizens and don't feel them as an enemy , we feel friendship with people of usa. what you see in government tvs and news from iran shows only the mind of government not real people of Iran.
Iran is an ancient country with ancient culture and more than 2500 years history. world need to communicate with iranian people to find out their real mind and thought.
thanks
I hope that Iran will one day be actually free from repression. The people of Iran actually don't hate Americans in their hearts, though their repressive Government does. Their fight for a moderate way of life will surely come, but on their own terms, as you said.
Hope to be better. Better means more features.
is that so ?
I have never been fortunate enough to travel to Iran. From what I read, it is a intriguing culture. I can understand why many people of Iran would want to protect their young loved ones against the consumerism and drug culture glorified in the movies and tv exported from the USA. More power to Iranians for having strong beliefs and not selling out to what Americans think is freedom. The corporations control most of what people in the USA think and hear. Few know how to sift through the propaganda.
I grew up in an area of the USA where Islam was not unknown and fairly well accepted(Dearborn, MI). Although I do not claim to known or understand the religion, it was a great experience to learn about the different sects and different countries represented. I hope we do not meddle into the politics of Iran. Maybe many in the region dislike the USA for acting like a bully and getting involved in regions so their elite can prosper. The USA is a young country and although founded on honorable princibles could learn a great deal from civilizations that have been aroung a great deal longer.
So, yes, I would love to see Iran. The artifacts of the Persian empire, warm and cultured people, and great food(I have enjoyed some of the dishes from friends), who wouldn't want to go?
As long as Mullas are in power, Iranian people can not be FREE
As long as Mullas are in power, Iranian People can NOT be FREE
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