While most first-time visitors to Europe choo-choose to travel by train, consider the convenience of driving. Behind the wheel you’re totally free, going where you want, when you want.
Driving in Great Britain and Ireland is wonderful — once you remember to stay on the left and after you’ve mastered the roundabouts. But be warned: Every year I get some emails from traveling readers advising me that, for them, trying to drive in Great Britain and Ireland was a nerve-wracking and regrettable mistake. Here’s a tip: If you want to get a little slack on the roads, drop by a gas station or auto shop and buy a green “P” (probationary driver with license) sign to put in your car window.
Of course, in Britain and Ireland you'll be driving on the left-hand side of the road. Why that side? Originally, it was in order for you to drive defensively ... with your “sword hand” on the inside to protect you against oncoming traffic.
Many Yankee drivers find the hardest part isn’t driving on the left, but steering from the right. Your instinct is to put yourself on the left side of your lane, which means you may spend your first day or two constantly drifting off the road to the left. It can help to remember that the driver always stays close to the center line.
Not only will you be driving on the left, but you’ll be using roundabouts, where traffic continually flows in a circle around a center island. These work well if you follow the golden rule: Traffic in roundabouts always has the right-of-way, while entering vehicles yield.
For some drivers, roundabouts are high-pressure traffic circles that require a snap decision about something you don’t completely understand: your exit. To replace the stress with giggles, make it standard operating procedure to take a 360-degree, case-out-your-options exploratory circuit. Discuss the exits with your navigator, go around again if necessary and then confidently wing off on the exit of your choice.
Whenever possible, avoid driving in cities. London even assesses a congestion charge — about $13 per day — to drive in the city center (see http://www.cclondon.com). It’s best and less stressful to begin your driving experience away from big cities, so try renting your car in a smaller town. A pleasant scenario for a Britain itinerary would be to start your trip in a small town such as Bath, rent a car when leaving Bath, explore Britain at your leisure by car, then drop off the car in York and take the train into London, where you can rely on the excellent public transportation system.
Outside of the big cities and the motorways (freeways), British and Irish roads tend to be narrow. Adjust your perceptions of personal space. It’s not “my side of the road” or “your side of the road.” It’s just “the road” — and it’s shared as a cooperative adventure. In towns, you may have to cross over the center line just to get past parked cars. Sometimes both directions of traffic can pass parked cars simultaneously, but frequently you’ll have to take turns — follow the locals’ lead and drive defensively. On rural roads, locals are usually courteous, pulling over against a hedgerow and blinking their headlights for you to pass while they wait. Return the favor when you are closer to a wide spot in the road than they are.
Do some homework before getting behind the wheel. Buy good maps and check various mapping websites, including Michelin’s site (http://www.viamichelin.com) and Google Maps (http://maps.google.com). A GPS device can also be helpful.
You’ll notice some differences between driving in the Republic of Ireland versus the United Kingdom (Great Britain and Northern Ireland). In the Republic of Ireland, the speed limit is in kilometers per hour, road signs are usually bilingual (but not always — “geill sli” means yield) and roads are more likely to be bumpy and poorly maintained. In the United Kingdom, the speed limit is in miles per hour, signs are in English (except in Wales, where they are bilingual) and roads are generally in better condition.
Even if you don’t drive, as a pedestrian you’ll have to remember that among our British and Irish cousins’ many unusual habits, traffic comes from the opposite direction — look both ways before crossing any street.
Horror stories about British and Irish traffic abound. They’re fun to tell, but driving here is really only a problem for those who make it one. The most dangerous creature on the road is the panicked American. Drive defensively, observe, fit in, avoid big-city driving when you can and wear your seat belt.
Rick Steves (http://www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and radio. E-mail him at rick@ricksteves.com.
Do you have experience with driving on the left side of the road? Share your tips with other travelers in the comments section. Or, plan your own U.K. driving adventure using Bing Maps.
Good article Rick, as an Englishman I think you put it all perfectly - there should be no fear driving in the UK. Generally the signage along the road is better than you'll find in North America, the roads are marked a whole lot better and most have "cats-eyes" for good vision at night and in poor weather or road lighting... or both!
The "P" plate idea is a very good one - it means the few arrogant idiot drivers won't bully you off the road.
Roundabouts, definately do the full run around one on the inside if you are unsure of your exit... the easiest option!
Are you mad, I am English and have driven on the right side in continental Europe and Australia. There is no problem. I know Americans are not the smartest people in the world but surely they can master such a simple concept without having to study for 5 years to do so. For god sake just get on with it.
Chris, were in Australia have you been? As far as I know, you drive on the left side in Australia, at least in Sydney where I was last year.
When I was in Australia and had a rental over a weekend, I suddenly found myself on a huge intersection on the right lane, staring right at the front lights of the car on the other side. Luckily the traffic lights were red and there wasn't much traffic, nothing happened, but it was quite a shock for me and my friend (who was from Germany, too, and also hadn't noticed us being on the wrong side until we were at the junction).
Driving in Australia was not difficult - it just required a lot of concentration to not give in to normal habits (such as moving to the rightest lane after a turn).
I don't think you can "train" this a lot - even after driving arround in a rural area for a few days the habits learned over many years still persist.
Great article non the less, reminded me of Australia and put a smile to my face ;)
Chris
Posted On October 29, 2009, 04:30 AM
Chris, the whole "americans are dumb" euro attitude is getting old. Find something new to talk about. If americans were dumb, you would be speaking German and we would not be the worlds superpower! Yea I am sure you and others are going to have a lot to say about this post, but I dont really care.
The best tip I have for driving on whatever side is if your behind the steering wheel then your always nearest the middle of the road (not the kerb). That is unless your driving a car with RHD in Europe of course.
Good point James we would of been in a lot of trouble if you had not got envolved in both wars, and yes it was a sweepeing generalisation about Americans mainly founded on ignorence. Also I forgot that Australians drive on the left which makes me pretty stupid. However driving on the left should not be that hard.
After buying a van at the Aussie-Kiwi vanlot in London, I spent months wandering around the British countryside and visiting amazing places on the Historic Registry. It was longer ago than I care to relate but I agree completely that it's best to stay out of the cities when driving. We'd park and take public transport. Better way to meet the locals too than constantly tooling along in your vehicular bubble.
Missed the last bus one twilight in a remote Sri Lankan jungle by standing on the wrong side of the road! Saved by flagging down a kind driver who squeezed 3 on his scooter. Did not want to walk back to the village with Leopards and Elephants looking for dinner!
i know we have a slightly different approach to our town planning and therefore no grid system and roundabouts !
I would advise to take a drive in the yorkshire dales or lake district or other winding country roads to really enjoy our great british roads and countryside !
Chris, I appoligaze for my post, reading it today, it seems a bit harsh.
tips for novice fellow yanks driving in GB/Ireland: (1) first time on the M-5, stay as far left as you can, have the kids count the number of times you hit the curb; (2) have spouse hold matches an inch outside the passenger window going into Dingle and see how many flare up from the stone walls; (3) in Dorset, wager on how many cars you can get to line up behind you on secondary roads while you zoom along at 23 MPH; (4) honk your horn incessantly in Cornwall while coming to a blind turn in the endless maize (?) fields; (5) everywhere: stop at roadside pub, tell the kids Robin Hood was here, have a pint and relax....
So all the dangerous areas you will ship the car past and fly over, just shift the focus to how many ways you can ship your car internationally, if its not going to be interesting it might as well be useful.
I drove abroad one time for 20 years, then she divorced me?
I encourage Rapp ,you to take this a challenge in life to go across of many lands in world lands.I am Indian,a Doctor by my profession.I must say you that,you are well come to India.be caringto drive in left side of roads in India,as its the traffic rules.Peoples are coordial,cooperate any where in India from east to west or north to south.Any help,u can share with me..
Go on..
susantakumarbehera@yahoo.co.in
When you get to West Africa, try going to Ghana to catch your breath. It's a great place to relax.
Do not enter any hilltop town in Italy or Spain. They are mazes of narrow hair pin turn streets that will leave your auto wedged and bent.
