Why some beauty products were better 100 years ago: Claire Coleman puts the new and the old products to the test

  • Some beauty products are centuries old and are still being updated
  • Vaseline was first developed in the 1870s and is still going strong today
  • But do these older products stand the test of time against their new rivals? 

Some beauty products are centuries old — virtually unchanged since 19th-century apothecaries came up with the formulation, and still on our chemists’ shelves.

But do they stand the test of time when pitted against modern counterparts?

We put some bestsellers to the test...

1911 Nivea Creme, £3.50

2013 Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Skin Rejuvenation Day Cream with SPF 15, £14.99

An emulsifying agent named Eucerit was the basis for Nivea, a product that its makers claimed was ‘the first stable water-in-oil skin cream’. Last year, the brand launched the Cellular Anti-Age range, ‘to boost the skin’s surface cell renewal for a more youthful look’.

Nivea Cream in 1911
2013 Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Skin Rejuvenation Day Cream with SPF 15, £14.99

Nivea Cream in 1911 (left) and 2013 Nivea Cellular Anti-Age Skin Rejuvenation Day Cream with SPF 15 (right)

The Verdict: There doesn’t seem much evidence to substantiate claims for cell renewal, but the newer product did feel superior. It smelt like a slightly more perfumed version of classic Nivea, went on more easily and was more quickly absorbed, which Harley Street cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting put down to the shea butter it contains. However, five minutes after I’d applied them there was little to choose between the two.

‘The addition of sunscreen filters gives the updated version a clear advantage,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘But for those with very dry skin, plain old Nivea is excellent value for money. Just don’t skimp on sunscreen afterwards.’

The Winner: Original — it’s less than a quarter of the price and can be used night and day if you put an SPF on top.

 

1953 Max Factor Creme Puff, £5.99

2007 Max Factor Miracle Touch Liquid Illusion Foundation, £12.99

Although normally used these days as a powder on top of foundation, the Creme Puff was launched as an all-in-one base and powder. More than 50 years later, Miracle Touch, which ‘transforms on contact with the skin from a solid foundation into a lightweight supple liquid’, was launched.

The Verdict: Both products gave a matte finish but the Creme Puff didn’t offer as much coverage and left skin looking flat and powdery. I know a lot of people love its retro smell but I’m not a fan.

The Winner: New — as a foundation Miracle Touch definitely wins, but the Creme Puff is good for removing shine on the go.

1953 Max Factor Creme Puff
2007 Max Factor Miracle Touch Liquid Illusion Foundation, £12.99

1953 Max Factor Creme Puff (left) and 2007 Max Factor Miracle Touch Liquid Illusion Foundation (right)

 

1863 Bourjois Little Round Pot Blush, £7.99

2013 Bourjois Little Round Pot Cream Blush, £7.99

When Parisian actor Joseph-Albert Ponsin started making stage make-up, he created a blusher by mixing powder with water and mother-of-pearl, then baking it in a mould. Little Round Pot Blush has been in production ever since. In 2013, it was reinvented as a cream-to-powder formulation.

The Verdict: The packaging of the newer blush is about half the size as it doesn’t contain a brush or applicator — you just use your fingers. But it lacks the original’s sweet rose scent and has a similarly powdery finish.

The Winner: Original — it comes in 12 shades, smells divine and is as blendable as the new version.

1863 Bourjois Little Round Pot Blush, £7.99
2013 Bourjois Little Round Pot Cream Blush, £7.99

1863 Bourjois Little Round Pot Blush, £7.99 (left) and the same product in 2013 (right) which is the same price

 

1930 Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant, £26

2009 Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Intensive Daily Face Moisturiser SPF15, £30

2009 Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Intensive Daily Face Moisturiser SPF15, £30

2009 Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Intensive Daily Face Moisturiser SPF15, £30

This blend of lanolin, petroleum jelly and paraffin got its name from a customer who claimed that the cream helped to heal her son’s scraped knee in eight hours.

Almost 80 years later, a moisturiser was launched promising moisturising for up to eight hours as well as protection from extreme weather and sun.

The Verdict: Eight Hour Cream is a thick, waxy balm with a strong, almost medicinal scent that people either love or hate. You wouldn’t normally apply it over your whole face but it’s undeniably good for dry lips and cuticles. I find it too greasy to use as hand cream. The new moisturiser has a lighter, fresher scent and absorbs easily.

Dr Bunting warns that the combination of sun filters might not protect you all day.

The Winner: Original — if you don’t mind the smell, it will help to lock in moisture.

 

1960 Elnett Hair Spray, from £2.39

2014 Elnett Volume Excess, from £2.39

Before Elnett, which was designed to be strong enough to fix hairstyles yet allow movement, hair lacquer was exactly that — it set hard. In 1969 a micro-diffusion cap was added to give a finer spray.

The latest version, Volume Excess, contains particles that give texture and lift to mimic a backcombed effect.

A 1960s UK L'Oreal magazine advert for Elnett
2014 Elnett Volume Excess, from £2.39

A 1960s UK L'Oreal magazine advert for Elnett (left) and 2014 Elnett Volume Excess hairspray, £2.39 (right)

The Verdict: True to its promise, the original holds but brushes out easily. The newer version also holds and, according to trichologist Philip Kingsley, does so more effectively. Volume Excess is designed to be used like dry shampoo — sprayed in and brushed out, leaving behind particles that create volume and grip.

The Winner: New. Unless you really don’t want volume, the new one offers all the hold of the original, plus extra oomph. And as we wash our hair more frequently now, who cares if it doesn’t brush out as easily?

 

1870 Vaseline Original Petroleum Jelly, £2.80

2014 Vaseline Intensive Rescue Moisture Locking Cream, £3.29

Vaseline was developed after a chemist noticed workers on an oil rig using a refinery by-product to heal cuts and burns. The latest version is a body lotion infused with micro-droplets of the original petroleum jelly. In clinical tests, it was shown to provide twice as much moisture as E45 cream.

The Verdict: Both products are fragrance-free but while the original is thick and waxy, the cream soaks quite easily into the skin. ‘Plain old Vaseline will lock in moisture,’ says Dr Bunting, ‘but it will make a mess of a blouse, so apply only to lips and ultra-dry areas such as heels or elbows at night.’

The Winner: New — just as moisturising but far more practical.

An advert for Vaseline the 1910s shows how it came in a tube
2014 Vaseline Intensive Rescue Moisture Locking Cream, £3.29

An advert for Vaseline the 1910s shows how it came in a tube (left) while Vaseline Intensive Rescue Moisture Locking Cream, £3.29, (right) now comes in a plastic tub. The recent product is deemed 'far more practical'

 

1950 Olay Beauty Fluid, £4.99

2014 Olay Regenerist Replenishing Cream, £21.99

Beauty Fluid was devised by a South African chemist whose wife was frustrated by thick, greasy creams. The latest Olay launch, Regenerist Replenishing Cream, contains ingredients that claim to give firmer, younger-looking skin.

The Verdict: Both products are easily absorbed, although the Beauty Fluid left skin feeling a little sticky in comparison, and smelt slightly old-fashioned.

But according to Dr Bunting, it’s the ingredients that count. ‘High levels of niacinamide, known to boost barrier function and even out skin tone, make the new cream a hugely improved formulation.’

The Winner: New — why wouldn’t you pick a more sophisticated moisturiser with proven antiageing ingredients?

An advert in the 1950s for Olay shows how products came in a round tub
2014 Olay Regenerist Replenishing Cream, £21.99

An advert in the 1950s for Olay shows how products came in a round tub (left) while the 2014 Olay Regenerist Replenishing Cream, £21.99, is packaged in a box. The new product is deemed the 'more sophisticated'

 

1967 Rimmel London Hide Blemish Concealer, £3.99

2012 Rimmel Wake Me Up Concealer, £5.49

This waxy concealer was a Sixties bestseller — but concealers evolved from stick to cream formulations and in 2012 Rimmel launched its Wake Me Up product, which promises an ‘instant anti-fatigue effect’ under the eyes and complete coverage for spots and other blemishes.

The Verdict: The original feels greasy and cakey and doesn’t blend easily into the skin. Its coverage didn’t seem great unless it was applied and then set with powder. The new formulation goes on smoothly and has a finish that isn’t so shiny that it makes spots stand out.

The Winner: New — the Sixties version feels inferior.

2012 Rimmel Wake Me Up Concealer, £5.49
2013 Johnson’s Baby Easy Rinse Foaming Shampoo, £3.13 for 250ml

2012 Rimmel Wake Me Up Concealer, £5.49 (left) and Johnson’s Baby Easy Rinse Foaming Shampoo (right)

 

1954 Johnson’s Baby Shampoo, £3.35 for 500ml

2013 Johnson’s Baby Easy Rinse Foaming Shampoo, £3.13 for 250ml

This was the first product formulated to be as mild to a baby’s eyes as water — hence ‘No more tears’. The latest shampoo, which comes in a pump dispenser, was launched last year.

The Verdict: The original shampoo is simple and effective. Its smell is unremarkable, unlike the new one which has a fruity, apple fragrance. According to trichologist Philip Kingsley, though, the formulations aren’t that different.

The Winner: Original — it’s about half the price of the new product and just as effective.

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