Ask the Test Kitchen: All about brown sugar

QUESTION: Can you substitute brown sugar cup-for-cup for granulated sugar? ––Marjorie Ciszewski, Clinton Township.

ANSWER: In many recipes you can substitute the two. As always, it will depend on what you’re making. Like most recipes it’s best to use what is called for. Yet we’ve all had a situation when we may not have a specific ingredient on hand.

When it comes to brown sugar, you need to consider what it is specifically. Brown sugar is granulated sugar with the addition of molasses. It used to be that brown sugar was sugar that was semi-refined with some of the natural molasses remaining. Now most brown sugar is refined sugar with the molasses added back in. It’s the molasses that gives brown sugar its softer texture.

The two most common kinds of brown sugar sold are light and dark. Light brown sugar has a a softer texture and flavor, while dark brown sugar has more of a molasses flavor.

Use it cup-for-cup when color and texture are not a issue. For example, don’t use light or dark brown sugar in a white cake mix. That said, a sugar’s role in baked goods like cookies will differ in many cookies and most likely not produce the same results when you switch them out.

When we use only brown sugar in a cookie recipe, the cookies will have more moisture and typically be chewier. Since the molasses in brown sugar also is acidic, it reacts with baking soda to help leavening; it will be puffier. Baked products, most sources say, that use all brown sugar will tend to have a slight butterscotch flavor.

Since brown sugar is regular sugar with molasses, you can also substitute the other way around, too. If a recipe calls for light brown sugar and you’re out, mix 1 cup granulated sugar with 1 tablespoon molasses. For dark brown sugar add 2 tablespoons molasses.

When using brown sugar, it’s also important to measure it properly. Most recipes call for brown sugar to be packed in a measuring cup. Be sure to use a dry measuring cup. Packing the brown sugar removes any air pockets and ensures the amount is accurate.

Storing brown sugar in a glass jar is best. You can also store it in a plastic bag in a sealable container. Either way it will keep indefinitely. This will also help keep the sugar from hardening.

Tricks for keeping brown sugar soft:

• Store with a piece of terra cotta. Scrub clean the terra cotta and then soak it in water for 15 minutes. After soaking pat it dry and place in the container or bag. You can also buy ceramic brown sugar savers at Bed Bath & Beyond, Target and kitchen stores like Sur La Table.

• Add a few medium-size marshmallows to the brown sugar.

Here’s what to do if it does become rock hard:

• Microwave the brown sugar in 30-second increments until it softens.

• Use a clean coffee grinder to break it up or run the hardened block of brown sugar along the large holes of a box grater, according to “Kitchen Hacks,” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated (America’s Test Kitchen, $19.95).

While many cookie recipes have equal amounts of brown and white sugar, today’s recipe has three times as much brown sugar as white.

Have a question? Contact Susan Selasky noon-3 p.m. Thursdays at 313-222-6872 or e-mail sselasky@freepress.com. Follow her @SusanMariecooks on Twitter.

Chocolate Chunk Cookies with Sea Salt

Makes: 3 dozen generous size cookies / Preparation time: 15 minutes / Total time: 45 minutes

1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter, softened

1/2 cup sugar

11/2 cups brown sugar

2 eggs at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon small- to medium-grain coarse sea salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

11/2 teaspoons baking powder

2 cups broken-up chocolate

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl cream together the butter, sugar and brown sugar until fluffy, about 3 minutes.

Add the eggs and vanilla and beat for an additional 2 minutes. Add the flour, salt, baking soda and baking powder, and mix until cookie batter is fully incorporated. Finally, add the chocolate chunks until well distributed. The cookie batter should be somewhat thick. For each cookie, drop about 2 tablespoons of dough onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes until the edges are golden brown.

From Stephanie Acho-Tartoni of Chocolates by Renée, Northville.

Tested by Susan M. Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen. Analysis per 1 cookie.

171 calories (46% from fat), 9 grams fat (6 grams sat. fat), 22 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams protein, 132 mg sodium, 27 mg cholesterol, 1 gram fiber.