What a splendid location. This hotel sits on a slope in the heart of Lyme Regis in Dorset overlooking the Cobb, the seaside town’s stone pier (where Meryl Streep once gazed in search of a lost lover in The French Lieutenant’s Woman). To the east along the Jurassic Coast, Golden Cap rises beyond a bay, resembling a pyramid with its top chopped off. The hill, which is maintained by the National Trust, is the highest point on England’s south coast.
In a nutshell
This 24-room hotel has been owned by the Haskins family for 30 years. It was originally a dower house for Countess Poulett, built in 1735 (the countess’s husband was involved in negotiations leading to the Acts of Union between England and Scotland). The main building curves around the lawn and the style is traditional yet modern. The lounge has model boats, shell collections and a telescope by a sea-facing window; it’s a great spot for a pre-dinner drink.
What are the rooms like?
They’re smart, with floral wallpaper (a fresh, contemporary look, not chintzy). Expect wicker chairs, antique desks, fresh chocolate-chip cookies and Algotherm toiletries. Of the cheapest rooms, No 37 is a decent size, tucked away with a garden patio (from £180 B&B). You want to go for a sea-view room, though. A good pick is room No 19 on the top floor (from £235 B&B). Check out the half-board rates if you’re dining.
Which is the best room?
Room No 12 is the best, with a big bay window with armchairs facing the Cobb, plus a king-size bed (from £250 B&B); room No 15 has a similar set-up.
So what’s the food like?
The restaurant is split in two; there’s a conservatory and a dining room, with both sections facing the sea. Proceedings are overseen by Carlos, the ebullient Portuguese restaurant manager. Seafood dominates the menu but there are meat dishes such as loin of Exmoor venison. I stuck to seafood, starting with fresh fried mackerel with watercress and radish. My “fish mix” main course of lobster, prawns, crab and new potatoes was a memorable feast. The raspberry charlotte pudding with sponge and vanilla ice cream was light and beautifully presented. Three courses are from about £35.
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Who goes there?
It’s great for couples and families (there’s a play area in the garden). The singer Gary Barlow and the former England manager Roy Hodgson recently stayed.
What else is there to do?
Order a massage treatment at the hotel (from £60 for an hour in a treatment room). Take a long, undulating walk along the coast to Golden Cap — and check out the quirky and intriguing Lyme Regis Museum (visit-dorset.com, lymeregismuseum.co.uk).
The highs, the lows, the verdict
Eight out of ten
It’s in a lovely location and the service is spot-on, but rooms are a tiny bit tired around the edges.
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Need to know
Tom Chesshyre was a guest of Alexandra Hotel (01297 442010, hotelalexandra.co.uk), Lyme Regis, Dorset DT7 3HZ; B&B doubles from £180; wheelchair-access rooms available; dogs welcome.