Set sail, eat patisserie and discover buzzing nightlife — how to spend a perfect 48 hours in Toulouse
"While strolling the winding cobblestone lanes, look for street art among the historic buildings, especially the incredible 15m-high mural featuring a fox, ghouls and, er, sausages on Rue Sainte Ursule"
DUBBED La Ville Rose – the pink city – thanks to its gorgeous terracotta brick buildings, Toulouse is a joy to explore on foot. Be sure to visit the majestic Capitole, set in one of France’s most stunning squares and home to the town hall and opera house.
While strolling the winding cobblestone lanes, look for street art among the historic buildings, especially the incredible 15m-high mural featuring a fox, ghouls and, er, sausages on Rue Sainte Ursule. Grab a tourist pass for local transport and museum entry, plus a guided tour and boat trip along the Garonne or Canal du Midi, £32 for three days (Toulouse-visit.com).
Hit the markets
Don’t miss the 100-year-old Victor Hugo market, open 6am-2pm daily except Monday (Marche-victor-hugo.fr). A foodie paradise, it has over 90 stalls selling the best local cheeses, meats, seafood and cakes. Upstairs there are five small restaurants, serving dishes featuring produce from the stalls below. For £13 you can feast on ham and Brie tart and duck with apricots at Chez Attila. On Sundays, check out the rustic farmers’ market in Place Saint Aubin, too.
Pick up vintage
Toulouse has a reputation for having some of the coolest vintage boutiques in France. Head to Rue Peyrolières and Rue Cujas in the old town for shops bursting with finds like perfectly worn-in leather jackets from £35 and sunnies for a tenner. My faves were Vintage Paradise and Groucho. After big brands? Head to Rue des Arts, Rue Boulbonne and Rue Croix-Baragnon for Diptyque, Hermès and Longchamp. Here, you’ll also find the city’s best antique dealers, offering everything from china vases to rocking chairs.
Neck pastis
With a 100,000-strong student population in the city, you’re guaranteed a great crowd to drink with. The riverside square Place Saint-Pierre is a good place to start. Head to Chez Tonton and order a pastis shot – the anise-flavoured aperitif has a real kick (Pastisomaitre.com). For a more chilled-out vibe, grab a pint with the hipsters at stripped-back Bar L’Echanson in the old town. Later, stop by Cosmopolitain for a margarita. With moody lighting, a stylish island bar and a DJ dropping hot tunes, it’s the perfect Saturday night spot (Cosmopolitain-toulouse.fr).
Go out of this world
Space buffs and families will love Cité de l’espace, a futuristic park on the outskirts of the city. Uncover secrets of the universe, test whether you’re fit enough to be an astronaut on the Moon Runner, tour the original Mir space station, then join the latest space mission in the IMAX 3D theatre. Tickets cost £20 for adults, £14 for kids (Cite-espace.com).
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Eat a sweet treat
Fancy a luxe dinner? Try the pretty terrace at Restaurant Emile, a fave since the ’40s (Restaurant-emile.com). Opt for the zarzuela catalane, £28 – mussels, squid and king prawns cooked in a moreish saffron and crab soup. If you have a sweet tooth you should also stop by Sandyan, where Michelin-starred chef Yannick Delpech creates cakes almost too pretty to eat, like the chocolat au lait passion, £5 (Sandyan.fr). Just a five-minute walk from the city centre, boutique hotel La Villa du Taur has chic and contemporary doubles from £125 per night. You can also get a great express lunch in its Sixty-Two restaurant. For £20 you’ll enjoy a glass of wine and three courses – think delish trout with black ink pasta (Villadutaur.com).
BTW
Toulouse is also the city of violets – take home sweets, perfume and liqueur as souvenirs.
Return flights to Toulouse cost from £20 (Skyscanner.net).
Plan your trip at Tourism-occitania.co.uk.
