Bobby Deen cuts fat, calories from mom's recipes
Some recipes are not meant to be messed with.
Those include temptations such as a light and fluffy chocolate souffle, a delicately browned Baked Alaska and anything made by your mother — especially if your mother is Southern cook extraordinaire Paula Deen.
Brothers Bobby and Jamie Deen grew up on the home-style goodness of Paula's chicken and dumplings, deep-fried lasagna, creamed corn spoon bread and Gooey Butter Cake. They learned early on to appreciate the classic comfort foods that were a staple on the menu at the family's restaurant, The Lady & Sons, and before that, at their catering business and restaurant, The Bag Lady, both in their hometown of Savannah, Georgia.
Bobby, who will visit two Pittsburgh-area Market District stores this weekend, says he hit a turning point in his life 12 years ago when he was reaching his 30th birthday that made him rethink his eating habits.
“We had been in the restaurant business for 10 years already,” he says. “I was working long hours and eating and drinking whatever was in front of me. I realized I was taking far better care of the business than myself.”
His revelation was the spark that set him on a path to a healthier lifestyle and, ultimately, a Cooking Channel show, “Not My Mama's Meals,” and his first solo cookbook, “From Mama's Table to Mine” (Ballantine Books, $22). His book debuted in February and quickly made its way to the top of The New York Times bestseller list.
The theme of his TV show and his new cookbook is cutting some of the carbs and calories and still enjoying the good taste of classic Southern dishes. His target for streamlining his mother's recipes was to keep them at 350 calories or less per serving.
Looking back, he says the conversion process was a challenge, especially for recipes with a high fat content.
“There's a lot of flavor in fat whether it's traditional Southern or Italian food,” Bobby says. “Anything rich and decadent contains fat. The part I feared the most was when we got to desserts. In the South, desserts tend to include a lot of butter, sugar and cream.”
He found that he could keep the flavors and cut the fat by substituting healthier ingredients: applesauce for oil, fat-free frozen yogurt for ice cream, Greek yogurt for sour cream or mayonnaise. In the case of Paula's Bittersweet Chocolate Cheesecake, he dropped the calorie count from 562 to 248 by using fat-free whipped topping, fat-free Greek yogurt and fat-free cream cheese — and cutting a thinner serving slice.
Bobby says his mother has been supportive of his efforts to eat better.
“I'm her son. What mother wouldn't want to see her son live longer with a healthy lifestyle?” he says. “I'm not trying to change my mom's mind with my show or my book. It's never been my style to wag my finger in anyone's face, much less my mother's.”
Paula, who has struggled with her weight and was diagnosed with diabetes a year ago, “has found a level of balance, as well” with her diet, according to her son.
“One of her vices is she loves sweet tea, and she gave it up,” he says. “She looks beautiful and feels good.”
Bobby maintains an exercise regimen that includes lifting weights and running every day. On Sundays when he's at home, he finds time to have dinner with his mother, who still prepares home-cooked meals for her family.
“My cookbook is a Monday through Friday cookbook,” he says. “On Sundays, I'm going to enjoy whatever my mama serves.”
Candy Williams is a contributing writer to Trib Total Media.
Charleston Shrimp and Grits
“They say you can't take the South out of the man. So you don't want to get between me and my grits,” writes Bobby Deen in “From Mama's Table to Mine.” “Luckily, lightening up this dish didn't hurt it one bit. For starters, I use Canadian bacon, which is less fatty than traditional bacon but still gives you smoky flavor. And I've done away with the cream to cut down on fat and calories. Rest assured, though, my version is just as creamy and indulgent-tasting as grits ought to be. This dish has gone into high rotation on my weekly menu.”
The new recipe reduced the calorie count from 581 to 211 per serving, and cut the fat from 21.2 grams to 6.
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 slices Canadian bacon
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
1 medium-size sweet green bell pepper, finely chopped
1 medium-size clove garlic, finely chopped
1⁄4 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken broth, divided
1⁄2 cup fat-free or low-fat half-and-half, optional
3⁄4 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
3⁄4 cup quick-cooking grits
Chopped green onions, dark-green tops only, for serving
In a large, nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat.
Add the bacon, onions and bell peppers and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened, for about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the white wine and let it bubble until it is mostly evaporated, for about 1 minute.
In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch with 1 tablespoon of the chicken broth and stir until dissolved. Add the remaining broth to the skillet along with the half-and-half and the cornstarch mixture. Bring to a gentle boil and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add the shrimp and cook until opaque, for about 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the grits according to the package directions.
Serve the shrimp and sauce over the grits and top with the green onions.
Makes 4 servings.
Nutrition information per serving: 211 calories, 6 grams fat, 19 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 1 1 / 2 grams dietary fiber, 650 milligrams sodium
Jambalaya, Y'all
“Mama always made jambalaya in the blink of an eye: everything in the pot and no oil needed. Dinner served,” writes Bobby Deen. “That's just the way I like to do it. And with all the tasty Cajun spices thrown into this pot, you can be sure it's hopping with flavor.”
The new recipe cut the calorie count from 445 to 361 per serving, and the fat from 15 grams to 4 grams.
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup long-grain white rice
3⁄4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 1⁄2-inch pieces
1⁄4 pound smoked turkey sausage, such as andouille or kielbasa, sliced
1 can (14 ounces) low-sodium diced tomatoes
3 tablespoons dried, minced onions
1 tablespoon chopped, fresh parsley
1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme
1⁄2 teaspoon garlic powder
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 bay leaf
In a Dutch oven, combine the chicken broth, rice, chicken, sausage, tomatoes, onions, parsley, thyme, garlic powder, black pepper, cayenne and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Make sure that all of the rice is submerged in liquid, and cover the pot. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, for about 30 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.
Nutrition information per serving: 326 calories, 4 grams fat, 25 grams protein, 46 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams dietary fiber, 640 milligrams sodium
Raspberry Angel Pie
“I think this is a pretty smart little pie,” Bobby Deen writes. “Instead of a heavy dough-based crust, the crust here is made from lighter-than-air baked meringue. It's then filled with a bright and delicious raspberry gelatin and topped with fresh raspberries. My Mama thinks this pie is just as pretty as a picture. And I'd have to agree with her on that point. It's light, bursting with flavor and easy on the eyes, a perfect ending to any backyard barbecue.”
The updated recipe changed the calorie count from 223 to 163 per serving, and the fat from 6 grams to zero.
For the meringue:
Nonstick cooking spray
4 large egg whites
1⁄8 teaspoon cream of tartar
3⁄4 cup sugar
For the filling:
1 package (3 ounces) raspberry gelatin
2⁄3 cup boiling water
2 cups ice cubes
1 container (8 ounces) fat-free whipped topping (or use light; optional), thawed
Fresh raspberries, for serving, optional
Heat the oven to 275 degrees. Lightly coat a 9-inch pie pan with cooking spray.
To make the meringue: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating until soft peaks form. Beat in the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, continuing to beat until stiff peaks form.
Spoon the meringue into the prepared pie pan, using the back of a spoon or a spatula to spread the whites evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Bake for 1 hour, or until lightly colored. Turn off the oven, open the door slightly, and leave the meringue in the oven for 30 minutes to cool gradually. Remove the meringue from the oven and let it cool completely on a wire rack.
To make the filling: Place the gelatin in a large bowl and pour 2⁄3 cup boiling water over the gelatin, stirring for about 2 minutes, until the gelatin is completely dissolved. Add the ice cubes and stir until the gelatin thickens, for 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove any unmelted ice cubes. Whisk the whipped topping into the gelatin until it is a uniform color. Refrigerate for 10 to 20 minutes, or until the mixture is thick enough to mound into the meringue pie shell.
Spoon the filling into the meringue pie shell and refrigerate until set, for about 2 hours. Top with fresh raspberries, if you like.
Makes 8 servings.
Nutrition information per serving: 167 calories, 0 fat, 2 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 0 dietary fiber, 87 milligrams sodium
