The formal dinner party will soon be consigned to the history books, according to new research which has revealed that 81% of people in Oxford would rather opt for informal gatherings or eating out, than slaving away in front of a hot stove for days.

But then dining out is much more of a leisure activity now than it’s ever been before. Previously reserved for special occasions or the odd pub lunch, we are now much more au fait with dining out on a regular basis.

And while the restaurant business reflects this, with eateries dominating most high streets, towns and cities, it also means we have become more discerning. We know what to expect, what we like and what’s good or bad. Mediocre food is no longer acceptable.

Maintaining one’s standards is therefore more important than ever, for anyone who has already made a name for themselves, and this is certainly true of The White Hart in Fyfield because the food there is consistently superb.

Run by husband and wife team Mark and Fay Chandler, he runs the kitchen, and she the front-of-house, I have been there several times and never had a bad meal. But my most recent foray was faultless, and I love watching the surprise on my guests faces as they realise they're in the hands of someone incredibly gifted.

It’s not a pompous place though, with a nice courtyard out the back overlooked by a huge bronzed white hart. Inside is all panelled wood and beams, shamelessly historic in contrast with the more contemporary open-plan designs currently favoured elsewhere.

Service is equally as seamless and the menu reflects the ethos. There is no sit up and beg policy here. Bar snacks and sharing boards are on hand for those who don't fancy the full monty, although we dived into the three courses like Tom Daley at a swimming gala.

We dined al fresco with some gorgeous glasses of cold rose keeping us lubricated as we 'ummed an ahhed' our way through the menu and the sheer pleasure it offers. Finally choosing the home cured salmon gravadlax with dill mayonnaise and a cucumber salad, the courgette and parmesan soup with homemade bread (£7) and the chicken and duck liver parfait with apple and vanilla chutney and toast (£7). As Mark grows most of his own fruit and veg and uses the freshest, most seasonal produce, it means the simplest dish, such as the soup, is transformed into something magnificent. Creamy, fresh, the colour reflecting the summer unfolding around us, it was an absolute joy. The parfait ‘s gamey taste was offset by the slightness of the vanilla and apple chutney while the salmon was exquisitely flavoured and not too excessive, quality over quantity, which was nice. The smoked ham hock, beetroot, radish and broad bean salad, English mustard mayonnaise (£8) was pure greed but we couldn't help ourselves and were rewarded with a dish full of summer, inspired food combinations and a little touch of magic.

It meant that we looked forward to our mains like reclining emperors, smug in the knowledge that it would be magnificent and Mark didn’t disappoint.

The lamb with a Mediterranean stack was a marvel, the tempura courgette flower stuffed with ricotta, pine nuts, lemon and basil, summer vegetables, herb gnocchi (£17) almost defied words, a wonderful balance between the softness of the petals and cream cheese contrasting with the crunch of the batter, the burst of the fresh peas, the zing of the roasted Mediterranean veg, the bite of the pea shoots and the silky warm roasted vegetables and peas.

The grilled hake fillet with Salcombe crab was beautifully cooked and served with Jersey Royals, sea vegetables £19.50, the crab bisque offering a depth of flavour that lasted until the last spoonful. Not cheap I know, but worth every mouthful.

Pudding seemed almost excessive. Already satiated it was pure decadence but the offerings were just too good to resist - pear, honeycomb, toasted oats and honey ice cream, elderflower custard tart with arctic roll and strawberries (£8) or the raspberries with vanilla custard, raspberry sorbet and a pistachio crumble (£8), all defying expectations in their finesse and finish.

Why The White Hart in Fyfield doesn’t have a Michelin star is anyone's guess, but it should. It defies expectations while maintaining impeccably high standards. But more than that it never pretends to be something that it isn't, and that's it's greatest charm. In short it’s still a pub that serves exceptional food.

The White Hart, Main Road, Fyfield,

Abingdon, Oxfordshire,

OX13 5LW

01865 390585

whitehart-fyfield.com