UK Edition
There are, it turns out, many ways to be a minimalist, depending on where you come from - or aspire to come from. A Parisian minimalist, for instance, if she’s a Saint Laurent kind of woman (and show me a Parisian who isn’t) likes the kind of minimalism that’s pared back to the bare bones of a pencil.
In fact, the pencil is operative here, because carrying off Parisian minimalism generally requires the physique of one. Boobs are something of an inconvenience. Mind you, I will say this about Saint Laurent’s designer Anthony Vaccarello, he is not a boob fascist. He doesn’t require them to be pushed up and over some torturous balconette bra like a pair of supersonic airbags. In fact he doesn't require a bra at all. So bourgeois. So maximalist. Instead, his models wear skinny ribs, polo necks or gauzy tops so body hugging you can practically see lungs. And short hair a la Rupert Everett in his My Best Friend’s Wedding era.
Often, the tuxedos, pea coats and leather trenches are worn over bare skin, with glimpses of cleavage (or lack thereof). This was a more or less silicone free zone.
There is something gloriously soixante-huit about the way the women in this show embraced the bralessness of it all - whatever the size, tone, shape or age of their bodies (ok, mostly very thin but by no means all text-book sexy).
And talking of those tuxedos - wowzer, which is really the only response you should have to a Saint Laurent tuxedo, since this house practically invented them. When Vaccarello first took over at Saint Laurent six years ago, he barely seemed to change any of the silhouettes his predecessor Hedi Slimane had installed to great fanfare. But little by little, he’s stealthily reframed everything through the lens of Vaccavision. The Vaccarello tux is more fitted than Slimane’s, more smoky-left-bank-nightclub. The cutesy minis of Slimane’s era have made way for slinky, stretchy maxi dresses, shiny leggings and bias cut satin floor length skirts with masses of 70s style (fake) fur. And there’s a fabulous chic new shoe style - black patent, chisel toed with gold hardware that is very dinner at la Coupole and the polar opposite of the pole dancing Tribute.
Like the Saint Laurent woman, the Row disciple would rather be gagged and forced to watch repeats of Emily in Paris on a loop than wear too many bits and bobs. No jewellery for these fashion nuns. Not much colour either - just black, cream, grey and a teal that could, to be honest, have been black that caught the light oddly.
This is a very New York or LA kind of minimalism, unsurprisingly since The Row is headed by The Olsen twins It was much looser, more romantic and layered than Saint Laurent’s minimalism, with dresses and voluminous blouses tying in sculptural floppy bows at the back and a high waisted, wide legged pleated trouser shape that’s emerging in all the fashion capitals.
Beautiful, and just as rigorous and arresting in her way as the Saint Laurent disciple, the Row woman doesn’t weigh herself down with extraneous accessories, but she does carry a top handled bag with the grace and elegance of Audrey or Jackie - and makes you want to ditch your cross body bag. You won’t because you’re an adult who doesn’t waste, or clutter her wardrobe with five-minute fads. But you may just make a note, for future purchases…
Removing one item before you leave the house is still the best fashion rule
Whether you’re Saint Laurent woman or a disciple of The Row, knowing when to stop is the secret to a successful outfit