Peter Lindbergh, 74, has travelled and photographed the world, freeing women from the tyranny of perfection and conformity with his black-and-white realism. Born in Leszno, Poland, and raised in Duisburg, Germany, today he lives in France. From there he defends a Europe which, not unlike his photographs, is made up of light and shadows and whose diversity comprises its strength. “I live in Paris. I’ve been here for 40 years, and I think I’m lucky. In New York, what do you do? You can go to Long Island, which has some beautiful places. But here you can go to Barcelona, Rome, Berlin, Stockholm and Amsterdam. This is what I love about Europe. We are very lucky to live here, in the heart of a crossroads of so many cultures. What I like very much about Europe is the diversity.”
Is there a country where you haven’t lived, but that you would like to move to one day?
I love Spain. It’s alive. In Barcelona in the evening, everyone is out and about. There are so many interesting people everywhere. And there’s great music. I’m a flamenco fan. You can go to a flamenco club or the beach. The people are so alive, modern and real. You can’t bullshit them. There’s no code for how you should talk or dress, just a sense of great freedom and honesty.
Is there a particular city or landscape that you like to photograph?
Italy, Rome. I love the cinema of Rome from the 1960s. Everyone hates Milan, but I find it beautiful. Portofino, always. I also like the north of France, the south of France, the desert in Spain. I liked Berlin a lot before they put up all the big buildings.
Of the women you’ve photographed, who best represents the different “souls” of Europe?
If I close my eyes and think about it, there are many: Jeanne Moreau and Catherine Deneuve in their early years. Charlotte Rampling. I’m a big fan of hers. She was born in the UK but also represents France, Spain and Italy – that winning mix of differences. She’s so funny, so open, so many things. And then there’s Vanessa Paradis.
You’ve photographed her for the first time for this feature in L’Uomo Vogue.
Vanessa is so beautiful and French. This is what is great about her. She’s so viscerally European everywhere and brings to mind France no matter where she is. Today’s France. She’s like a new Marianne for a new Europe.
Speaking of which, how do you see tomorrow’s EU?
Europe is a big experiment in integration, also economic integration. Even something silly like the currency has really simplified our lives. I remember when I had six different envelopes with all the different money! The guys in Brussels are working to make everything slowly standardised. But it would be a pity to have no difference between Sicily and Sweden. The cars have to be the same, the freeways have to be the same. I can see how it’s great to have all the things equal, but at the same time I’m not so sure. Take Greece: once they got in the grips of the banks, they found themselves on their knees. It went from a happy country to a country that is angry, tired, and has to follow orders. I don’t like Brexit but I can imagine that similar sentiments have fuelled Brexit and nationalism.
Is there a female politician you’d like to photograph?
I really have no idea. I’m frustrated that I can’t give you a list of them.
You have said that beauty is a question of identity that comes from an awareness of who we really are. So what is the nature of European beauty?
The greatest value is that we aren’t like the Americans. We negotiate. We don’t build walls. I grew up in a very industrial area. There was nothing there, but I was really happy there. I like to say that I had nothing but I missed nothing. Sometimes I go back home to Germany and drive through those landscapes, with the grey and the smog, and I think it’s beautiful, but my friends, they think I’m crazy.
Photography Peter Lindbergh. Styling by Michael Philouz. Model Vanessa Paradis. Hair David Babaii @ Np Beautiful. Make-up Maud Laceppe @ The Wall Group using Chanel. On set Anthony Graneri. Stylist assistant Céline Sabbagh.
L'Uomo Vogue, maggio 2019, n.004, pag.154
