It was easy to feel my winter-loving soul sink as I drove north toward Jay Peak Resort in Vermont last week.
It was raining on and off and as far as I could see there was just gray, brown and bleh.
About five miles from Jay, it was still brown. But as I glimpsed the trails in the distance for the first time I thought: Hope. But then: Oh come on, it’s probably got the consistency of cement.
Then I got up the hill to the base of Jay and my slopeside room at the Hotel Jay. In the air? Snow. Not just a hint, but a true effort. Could it be that winter had found me?
The next morning I rose to the most incredible sight: Hardcore, full-on, dress-right-for-it winter. First chair and first run through a good six inches of lighter powder, I realized something.
The Jay Cloud isn’t folklore: It’s a real thing. There, for my three-day visit in this winter of snow lovers’ despair, I lived in a snow globe. In full, more than 17 inches of snow fell; light and skiable. The wind blew strong but the Jay lifts — for the most part — got me where I wanted to be. And while just down the hill brown mud and gray trees still ruled, I lived my best winter life.
And it’s not a one-off thing. In this year (or should I say these years) of lack of true winter, the Jay Cloud is up there, showing up often, acting all chilly and most of all, giving those who want to dip their toes into true winter a chance to find it in even the roughest of seasons.
Jay Peak Resort (jaypeakresort.com) sits way up in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, about four miles from the Canadian border. Leaving from Boston proper, it’s a little under four hours but an easy ride; you barely make a turn (and have a chance to stop at the Hooksett Plaza for fresh made cider doughnuts at the Common Man doughnut shack). But that’s not why Jay gets these unique storms when almost everyone else is bone dry.
It’s the Jay Cloud that does it. And a visit this time of year — ski or not — offers a chance to feel the elements, see the beauty of nature and even learn about how weather works.
First, Jay is way up north and that usually means colder temps, which is certainly a help. But more so is how Jay sits. The mountain’s peaks are along a northeast/southwest line which sets it diagonal to the northwest winds that regularly sweep through the region.
When those winds hit Jay, they come in with few speedbumps since Jay sits pretty much alone as a high peak there. As the wind moves up the mountain, it gets colder and turns any moisture it may have on hand into snow: light, sweet beautiful powder most times.
I’d been told that many times. But to see it in real time? Wow.
I was out with a bunch of younger friends who immediately dove into the steep tree runs. Me? I powder turned my way down the incredibly well-maintained cut trails, loving it all just as much. My friends would pop out at the bottom, covered in snow like me and with grins that reminded me of what the kids in “Rocket Power” looked like when they pulled off a victory.
And it never let up.
Jay isn’t just for skiers though. Their slopeside lodging is comfortable, efficient and has great deals this time of year.
And at the base is perhaps the most unique thing you’ll ever come across at a ski resort: A huge, vibrant water park. It’s weird, wild and wonderful – as the Jay Cloud does its magic just outside, folks in bathing suits ride water slides, a lazy river, try surfing and more.
The dining is great, too. You can find American gourmet at Alice’s Table, top notch pub fare at the Tower Bar, burger glory at the aptly-named Sis Boom Burger and many more choices.
A must? Miso at Miso Hungry (https://www.misotohkome.com). Available out of an old tram car at the base, it’s authentic Japanese and incredibly delicious. It’s also like a balm to the soul. Sit in that whirling snow at the slopeside firepit and savor your miso — I promise it’s the perfect blend of hot and cold.
As I left, I thought well, I guess I’ll be driving in snow for a while. Not at all. Just a few miles south of the access road, it was back to brown and gray.
But that’s okay. Next time, in Jay I will trust. The Jay Cloud is a real-world snow globe that Mother Nature just loves to shake. Head up and jump into it. Jay and its Jay Cloud are open daily through mid April and weekends until they say uncle. It’s the most dreamlike you’ll feel in a real life winter setting.
