INDIANAPOLIS — Welcome to this guide on an often overlooked but crucial component of your water heater tank: the anode rod.

In my last Home Zone, we discussed the importance of flushing your hot water tank yearly to prevent rusting. Today, we’re delving deeper into maintenance with a focus on the unsung hero of your water heater system – the anode rod.

The Role of Anode Rods

Many homeowners are unaware of the existence of anode rods and their vital role in protecting your water heater. Imagine this: an anode rod acts as a sacrificial lamb for your tank. Its composition, typically made of more susceptible metals, attracts minerals and sediments, preventing them from corroding the steel inside your tank. However, once the anode rod is depleted, your tank becomes vulnerable to corrosion.

Locating and Changing the Anode Rod

So, how do you go about changing an anode rod? You should change them when they get warn out, probably every 3 to 4 years depending on your water. First things first, you need to locate it. Anode rods are found at the top of your water tank, sometimes concealed by insulation.

They’re often identifiable by their indentation and six-sided shape. To remove almost all anode rods, you’ll need a 1 and 1/16 inch deep socket, and a strong ratchet, maybe even using a additional breaker bar to give your more leverage, although there is an easier way. Use an impact driver with the deep socket.

It literally took only a couple seconds and I found an inexpensive driver on Amazon for $60 that I can now use for other things like removing lug nuts.

Safety Precautions

Before attempting to change the rod, ensure your safety by following these precautions:

  • Wear safety glasses
  • Turn the gas to your tank to “pilot” or if it’s an electric heater, turn off its breaker
  • Locate and shut off the cold water supply valve

Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, leading to a bucket, and drain about 5 gallons of water to relieve pressure.  You’ll likely have to unscrew the valve a quarter turn to release the water. Don’t drain anymore than 5 gallons as you want the tank to be heavy so it doesn’t move when attempting to unscrew the anode rod.

Changing the Rod

Once that small amount of water is drained and the water supply is still off, it’s time to change the anode rod which can be difficult. It often requires significant force, which may cause the tank to turn if not properly secured.  

I found using that inexpensive impact wrench was by far the easiest method and takes just a few seconds. If you don’t have a lot of ceiling height above your water tank, the rod may have to be cut in half to lift out all the way. Use vice grips to make sure the bottom half doesn’t fall back into the tank once it’s cut.

You can also tip the tank sideways IF it’s fully drained and disconnected, but that’s the long method.

Choosing the Right Replacement

When selecting a replacement rod, you have options. Traditional rods are cost-effective and about $30, but again, they may require cutting if they’re too long. Segmented rods are now more common, about the same price and are easier to install and remove due to their smaller linked rods.

Another alternative is a titanium-powered rod, like the Corro Pro-tec. It’s more expensive, but offers the added benefit of reducing sulfur smells and has a 20-year guarantee.  That’s what I used when I recently changed my anode rod. 

By the way, my water tank was only 5 years old and when I removed the anode rod, it was completely dissolved. It also requires a slightly bigger socket that is 1 and 3/16 to install.

Installation Process

Regardless of the type of anode rod chosen, the installation process involves wrapping the rod in Teflon tape in the direction you are screwing it in to give it a better seal once tightened.  Thread it in by hand so it doesn’t cross thread. Now tighten it with the appropriate socket and wrench.  No need to use an impact wrench when putting in a new one–it will just make it harder to remove. 

If there’s any water leaking from the top, tighten down the anode rod a bit more until it stops leaking.  My titanium-powered rod, which is less than 2 feet long, was simple to install.  It also required plugging in the top connector that comes out of the anode rod to the supplied power supply. 

You’ll also need to attach the other split end to grounding loop.  Just unscrew one of the many screws that hold on the top rim of the tank, put the grounding loop on the screw and replace the screw into the tank lid.  Then plug in the other end to an outlet. 

The supplied cord was 12 feet and was plenty long enough to reach an outlet in my water heater room. Now it’s time to turn back on the water supply and turn on the tank if it’s electric. If it’s gas, turn it from “pilot” to the setting you had it on previously.

Conclusion

Understanding and maintaining your water heater’s anode rod is essential for prolonging the lifespan of your tank and ensuring consistent performance, just like flushing your tank. By following these steps, you can safeguard your investment and enjoy hot water without worrying about corrosion. 

You should check your anode rod every few years for corrosion.  The electric one is guaranteed for the life of the tank, so it shouldn’t need to be examined, but it can’t hurt.