No rice, let the sago do the work

In the midst of increasing rice prices, there is no harm in looking back at the existence of sago as a staple food choice. Moreover, sago is actually not a rare food. Based on the writings of Bogor Agricultural Institute Agricultural Technology researcher Tajudin Bantacut in the journal Pangan volume 20, March 2011, common sago is found in coastal and lowland areas from Sumatra to Papua.

Also read: Diversification of Food Substitutes for Rice

This food is high in carbohydrates, low in calories, and does not contain gluten, making it safe to consume for people with restricted diets, such as those with celiac disease and people with autism spectrum disorder. For comparison, a serving of sago contains 347 calories, while the same serving of rice contains 360 calories and wheat flour 376 calories. In addition to starch, sago products can also be processed into flour for bread and noodles.

Now I eat more often because I am diabetic. And sago is good for people like me

Sinonggi

The most common way to process and eat sago is to mix the starch with warm water. After that, stir until thick and becomes like sticky porridge. In Southeast Sulawesi, this sago dish is known as sinonggi.

Accompanied by the drizzling rain that fell on Kendari, Southeast Sulawesi on Thursday (21/3/2024) night, Salman (42) was waiting for his food order. Together with his friend, he deliberately came to one of the stalls that specializes in selling sinonggi. "After breaking the fast, eating sinonggi can make you feel refreshed," he said.

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After a while, the waiter came with a bowl of yellow sauce barramundi. Next came chicken with tawaoloho sauce or forest ambarella leaves. After that, sinonggi came as the main food. This sago dish is typical of the Tolaki tribe.

She prepared a dish on a plate. Small red chili peppers were sliced and mixed into the fish broth, adding thickness to the flavor. Squeezed lime was also added for a tangy twist. Then, she took chopsticks, stirred the thick sago, twirling it in the air until it separated from the rest of the sago in the bowl, and placed it on the plate. That was the technique of making sinonggi.

When eaten, the savory taste of sago mixed with the sour and salty fish broth. The addition of bird's eye chili adds to the richness of flavor. The combination of flavors creeps on the tongue and melts down the throat. The taste is slightly different when sinonggi is mixed with forest kedondong fruit chicken broth, which is fresh.

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“If I eat rice, I quickly become sleepy. "But if you use sago, your body will feel fresher," said Salman.

Preparing and consuming sinonggi has become deeply ingrained in Nurlianti's (70) life, the owner of the sinonggi restaurant. Even when she returns home to Makassar in South Sulawesi, she searches for this food. However, she faces difficulties because she has not yet found a restaurant selling sinonggi.

His tactic is to look for restaurants that sell kapurung, or a special food made from sago. Kapurung is made by cooking all ingredients, vegetables, fish, and other mixtures in one container. He then orders it by eating sinonggi style, which means separating the sago.

“Now I eat more often because I have diabetes. "And sago is good for people like me," he explained.

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Papeda

Meanwhile, in Papua, sago remains a staple food in several regions. This food processing technique allows sago to be stored for a relatively long period of time, ensuring food security for residents. Sago can be obtained directly from villages or at Sentani Market in Jayapura Regency. Sago starch concentrate with good quality can last for 3-6 months if properly stored.

"Although currently the number of sago farmers and local food is decreasing, the best sago can still be found in several villages, especially around Jayapura. Mention the villages around Lake Sentani, such as Ayapo or Genyem," said Usilina Epa or Ulin (38), a culinary activist in Sentani-Papua at his Isasai Restaurant, located on the edge of Lake Sentani, Waena Village, Heram District, Jayapura City, on Thursday (21/3/2024)."

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The making of papeda dishes is fairly simple. Initially, sago flour is diluted with water and added with lime juice. Then, the mixture is transferred to another container and strained to ensure that the starch lumps are completely removed. The sign of the right texture is that it is chewy and clear without any white spots.

"Add lime juice to make it fresher. Then stir until the sago starch lumps disappear and the mixture becomes thin. Usually, the stirring process takes only 1-2 minutes," said Ulin. Papeda is usually served with fish in yellow broth or vegetables in coconut milk called ganemo."

In addition, there is also a different way of serving papeda, which is wrapped. In the Sentani language, it is called finukhu. The hot papeda dough that has coagulated is then put into kalatea leaves, also called forhofae by the Sentani community. In addition to forhofae, finukhu can also use banana leaves.

Finukhu, when wrapped in leaves, will also create a more delicious and enjoyable taste. This food is commonly served with fried fish or fish sauce.

"Since long ago, as a daily food, finukhu can be used as a provision when gardening, fishing, or during long journeys as it can last for 2-3 days," said Ulin.

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Mi

In West Kalimantan, sago is processed into noodles. According to connoisseurs, the texture is chewier than egg noodles. In terms of weight, it is also lighter than rice or wheat noodles, so people consider it suitable for dinner after breaking the fast.

When children are unhappy with eating rice, we create a menu using sago so that gradually the perception that food is not just rice is awakened.

Usually, residents buy sago noodle dishes from food stalls or restaurants. However, Deman Huri (46), a resident of Southeast Pontianak, chooses to cook his own. The broth is taken from curry leaves planted in a pot at his home.

He said that he is starting to train himself in recognizing food diversity. The expensive price of rice lately has opened his eyes to the existence of other local food sources that can serve as a substitute for rice.

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"We receive shipments of sago flour from our contacts in the Kalbar interior almost every month. That's what we process," said Deman.

Sago processing is not limited to just noodles. He and his family process sago into snacks called ongol-ongol. Ongol-ongol is made from boiled sago flour.

Afterwards, it is put in the refrigerator to slightly freeze, then cut into pieces and mixed with coconut milk or milk. For the breaking of fast menu on Thursday (3/21) evening, Deman and his wife made bubur ongol-ongol. Its texture is soft.

“We are also starting to form the habit of food diversity in children. "When the children don't like eating rice, we make a menu from sago so that the perception is slowly built that food is not just rice," he said.

Also read: Sago, a substitute for instant noodle raw materials

The potential of sago is not only great in terms of the variety of processing methods and dishes but also in terms of quantity. In 2020, the Ministry of Industry held the National Sago Week, which revealed that Indonesia has the largest sago land in the world, which is 5.5 million hectares, mostly located on Papua Island. However, only 5.7 percent of this land has been optimally utilized.

The production of sago in the Nusantara region is only 3.57 tons per hectare. However, according to the Ministry of Industry's study, it can be increased to 10 tons per hectare. Therefore, the government has included sago cultivation as one of the priorities in the Medium-Term Development Plan 2024. However, this plan must be accompanied by a reintroduction of sago as a staple food among the community.

Also read: Sago in Various Shapes and Flavors