Ori Menashe worked for years as the chef de cuisine of Angelini Osteria before opening this stunning and often cacophonous restaurant in the Arts District with his wife Genevieve Gergis. Menashe’s approach starts with classic, familiar Italian like nduja-studded mussels, wood-fired pizza, and handmade pasta. But nearly every dish draws on the umami-packed cuisines and cooking techniques he’s tasted across LA, like lobster squid ink spaghetti with serrano or grilled prawns with salsa roja, preserved lemon, and chile de arbol. The influences are subtle, and more often than not folks won’t realize it, but in the decade since opening Bestia’s flavor-first approach has become emblematic of modern LA cuisine. Gergis’s desserts are swoon-worthy, like the bittersweet chocolate budino tart.

Matteo Ferdinandi worked with legend Piero Selvaggio at the now-closed Valentino before opening this bustling industrial warehouse space in Arts District with chef Angelo Auriana, who cooked at Valentino for 18 years. Since Factory Kitchen opened in 2013, it’s developed some signature dishes, like the Ligurian foccacina flatbread covered with melty crescenza cheese, anchovies, and capers for a mouthwatering starter. The bright green pesto-coated mandilli di seta, or handkerchief pasta, will appear on most tables. The ricotta-filled cannoli with orange marmalade is the ideal dessert. Factory Kitchen remains a prime example of modern Italian in Los Angeles.

Steve and Dina Samson crafted an industrial masterpiece in the Fashion District, a high-ceiling space with hanging lamps, an artful mural, and a gold-painted bar. Chef Steve Samson leans on food from Bologna, like tortellini and minestra del sacco (parmesan dumplings) in brodo poured from porcelain pots tableside — plus some of the finest handmade pasta in town. The grilled pork chop and branzino showcase the kitchen’s wood grill. Rossoblu remains a star in LA’s oft-crowded Italian restaurant scene, and as a bonus tables aren’t too difficult given the large venue.

Zack Pollack’s cherished neighborhood trattoria Alimento successfully weaves a California mentality with Italian flavors and cooking techniques. The rowdy dining room boasts albacore crudo and chicken liver crostone to start, and then a radicchio Caesar salad dusted generously with parmesan cheese. Most people will split the pastas, like casarecce with tomato, basil, and burrata. Ten years after opening, Alimento has no reason not to expect another decade of service in Silver Lake given its popularity.

Chad Colby’s enduring Italian restaurant, unexpectedly located in a Larchmont-adjacent strip mall, serves what may be the city’s most polished pastas, grilled meats, and rustic Italian fare through an incisive California lens. The menu includes a robust focaccia (“pane”) section with add-ons like burrata and scallion oil, marinated anchovies, whipped ricotta and pistachio pesto, or duck liver pate, while antipasti include seasonal salads and crudo. The windowless room manages to charm well-dressed diners eager to find stellar vintages on its wine list, and every table orders its share of house-churned ice creams. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

While this expansive Hollywood restaurant opened with the wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas plucked right out of the famous Naples original, the LA edition has since expanded from wide, crepe-like pizzas topped with fresh mozzarella to a menu of salads, pizza, and mains. While the pizza remains the main draw, what makes L’Antica worthy of repeat visits is the laid-back patio that feels like an escape from the bustle of LA.

Gino Angelini could be credited for ushering in the latest era of Italian American cooking, the seasoned chef leaning on his upbringing in Emilia Romagna and key tenure at ’90s classic Rex Il Ristorante. In 2001, he opened Angelini Osteria, weaving in fine dining-level execution with pasta, pizza, and grilled secondi. Alumni like Ori Menashe have gone on to inform LA’s perception of Italian food since, but Angelini Osteria remains a modern classic inside its homey Beverly Grove dining room. The lasagna verde “Nonna Elvira”, a cheesy, meaty, fried spinach-topped icon, is a must-order for first-timers.

A place that feels plucked right out of a busy street in Italy, with its sidewalk seating and dimly lit dining room, Terroni has managed to become a Beverly Grove staple since opening in 2007 thanks to reliable pasta, well-dressed salads, and unfussy pizzas.

Come for the vibes, stay for the cocktails, and maybe share one of the best chicken parmesans in town. Dan Tana’s, which opened in 1964, has plenty of detractors for its celebrity-riddled booths and sometimes lackluster dishes. But fans interpret the old-school food as timeless Italian American food, with numerous plates named after the West Hollywood restaurant’s famous regulars. Stick to martinis and the chicken parm, and the rest will solve itself through the restaurant’s timeless conviviality.

New Yorkers might be surprised to see their neighborhood West Village cocktail bar turned into a glorious, airy Italian restaurant on the top floor of the luxe Maybourne hotel in Beverly Hills. But it works here, with plush royal blue banquettes, a patio overlooking the city and hillsides, and inventive Italian-inflected cocktails. The menu sticks to highlighting fresh ingredients, like fennel and orange salad or Dungeness crab and mascarpone ravioli with cherry tomatoes. The tiramisu is a must-order to finish.

In pasta maestro Evan Funke’s third installment in Los Angeles, he brought together what made him famous in a towering three-level space in Beverly Hills. The first floor conjures tasteful ’90s throwback vibes (save for the slightly out-of-place neon sign reading “The Last Great Adventure Is You.”) while the mezzanine contains a boisterous set of tightly-packed tables. Upstairs, a rooftop with cocktails and the full menu is open for no-reservation seating. The bill of fare meanders through Funke’s greatest hits, from tomato-and-cheese topped sfincione, extruded pasta, and fully handmade pasta prepared in a glass-enclosed lab near the entrance. It’s a lot, but that’s what you come to Beverly Hills for: the full Evan Funke Italian extravaganza.

This revival of a classic Frank Sinatra hangout in Beverly Hills might’ve been the toughest table to get in 2023. Credit the tiny, but stylish dining room recalling ’70s over-the-top decor and a bustling energy that diners don’t want to leave. The diminutive but fast-working kitchen churns out spaghetti and meatballs, veal parmesan, and mussels marinara on white tablecloths likely flecked with wine circles and tomato sauce. The chocolate tart with espresso-caramel ganache makes for an indulgent finish.

The founders of Uovo, a growing chain of pasta restaurants, were so entranced by the quality of handmade pasta made in Bologna that they decided it needed to be flown in regularly from the homeland instead of made stateside. The secret, they say, comes from the egg, translated as uovo in Italian. The tight menu at Uovo features beguilingly good fresh pasta, sporting a pleasant chewy but slippery texture that adheres to creamy parmesan sauce, ragù bolognese, and all’arrabiata. There’s also a handy tasting of a starter, three pastas, and dessert, in case one bowl of food just feels too simple.

Jackson Kalb’s follow up to this neighborhood El Segundo trattoria Jame was a further development of his love affair with Italian food. The former fine dining chef just wants to serve food he loves without pretension, which means a versatile Italian American menu of house-extruded pasta. Think spicy rigatoni alla vodka, linguine with colatura, and lemon tagliolini. Thin, shareable pizzas infuse some creativity like the Hapa, with potentially eyebrow-raising pepperoni with pineapple and jalapeno. In a neighborhood with plenty of options, locals still gravitate toward Ospi’s quality Italian food.

There was a lot of handmade pasta in Los Angeles before Felix opened in Venice back in 2017, but a place fully committed to using just hand tools and rolling pins was fairly novel. Chef Evan Funke introduced this at his former restaurant Bucato in Culver City but mastered the entire restaurant package with Felix, earning it an Eater LA Restaurant of the Year award. Funke and partner Janet Zuccarini have crafted a charming dinner destination, starting with a gorgeous pink chicory salad and the now-famous round of sfincione focaccia. Meander through tagliatelle al ragù bolognese, orechiette with sausage sugo, and foglie di ulivo (with rapini pesto) before sharing a tagliata di manzo, or grilled ribeye cap.