The wines from the Alentejo region of Portugal continue to impress us and represent some of the best values in the wine kingdom. Although consumers might not recognize the indigenous grape varieties, they will enjoy the lively, fresh and unique white wines as well as the simple and versatile red wines.
Alentejo is a large region of Portugal and represents about 13% of the country’s vineyards and 18% of the its wine production. The Portuguese drink about 67 liters per capita; in the U.S. per capita consumption is just 12 liters. Most of the production stays in the country, but we’re finally seeing more labels in the United States.
Portuguese wine makers embraced sustainable farming before it was popular. They are well ahead of other wine-growing regions that are adopting environmentally friendly farming practices.
Here are some of the wines we liked:
Herdade de Malhadinha Nova Antao Vaz da Malhadinha 2022 ($30). Antao Vaz is the most popular white wine grape in this region and produces wines that are fruit-forward, smoothly textured and redolent of peach, melon, citrus and mineral. No oak is used.
Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco 2021 ($29). This is a tasty blend of arinto and verdelho grapes sourced from two Portalegre vineyards located at just over 1,640 feet. Citrus and herbal aromas with creamy texture and stone fruit and citrus flavors.
JMF “Jose de Sousa” Tinto 2017 ($19). This red wine is a blend of grand noir, touriga francesa and touriga nacional. The grapes are foot-trodden in small lagares and then fermented in 100-year-old talhas, an ancient clay amphorae. These vessels are moistened several times a day to keep the temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees. Strict standards must be met for a wine to be declared a DOC Vinho de Talha. This wine has raisiny red fruit flavors with tobacco and spice aromas and a hint of oak.
FitaPreta Tinto 2021 ($27). From the Evora area, this medium-bodied red wine is a blend of aragones, alicante bouschet, trincadeira and castelao grapes.
Herdade Sao Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Tinto 2018 ($16). A blend of alicante bouschet, touriga nacional, syrah and cabernet sauvignon, this assemblage is well-integrated with red fruit character. Alicante bouschet, a cross between grenache and petit bouschet, is the most-recognized red grape variety here.
Herdade de Rocim Alicante Bouschet 2021 ($23). All alicante bouschet from the Vidigueira region, this smooth wine has a floral bouquet with mature red fruit flavors and a dash of spice.
Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco Portalegre Alentejo 2021 ($26). This Symington product has citrus and apple notes as well as a mid-palate creaminess that make a fine package. Mostly made from the renowned arinto grape.
Quinta da Fonte Souto Red Portalegre Alentejo 2019 ($26). This is a skillful blend of alicante bouschet, syrah and alfrocheiro grapes. Big rich and elegant with berry fruit notes as well as hints of pepper, mocha, and licorice. Very impressive.
Douro
The wines from Portugual’s northern regions should also bear attention. We have been fans of port, fortified wines that came of age in the 1700s as trade with England required a stable wine that could survive a lengthy sea voyage.
Dominating the port trade is the Symington Family owners, producers of Dow’s, Graham’s, Warre’s and Cockburn’s. But they also produce table wines from their estates in the Douro Valley and a new entry from the Portalegre region in Alentejo.
Symington produces a value line of wines titled Vale do Bomfim. A red and white are available and are sourced from indigenous grapes from the Quinta do Bomfim vineyard that is also the source of grapes for their renowned vintage port. The Vale do Bomfim wines are priced at $15 per bottle, putting them squarely in bargain territory.
The Vale do Bomfim DOC Douro White 2022 ($15) is crafted from indigenous white grapes and creates a quaffable balanced white wine with lemon and grapefruit notes that is similar to a well-made sauvignon blanc.
The Vale do Bomfim DOC Douro Red 2020 ($15) is made from the same indigenous red varieties of grapes that make up their vintage port. This is a potential summer barbecue wine that would delight with a little chill. Cherry notes with an accent of black pepper make an easy to drink wine.
Prats and Symington is a partnership with the Prats family of Bordeaux fame. Prazo de Roriz is produced by the group and is another value-oriented wine. We really enjoyed the Prazo de Roriz DOC Douro 2021 ($18) vinted from indigenous Portuguese grapes and made in an easy and ready-to-drink style. Cherry and raspberry notes dominate with a black pepper accent and should also make a nice summer sipper.
We also like Prats and Symington’s Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro 2021 ($28). This is the second wine to $100+ Chryseia and is very impressive. Very fresh and with less oak than the Chryseia this wine is drinking well now. Fresh berry and cherry notes dominate and make a very smooth drink.
Wine picks
Cantini Pellegrino Gazzerotta Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2021 ($23). This simple wine with soft and bright red fruit character makes for a good sipper or a companion to pasta and grilled meats.
Cloudy Bay Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021 ($43). This beauty displays fresh, rich blackberry and cherry notes with a hint of oak. If you like some of the pinot noirs from California, try this one.
Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Washington State 2019 ($145). Created from a partnership between Marchesi Antinori and Chateau St. Michelle wineries. This excellent red wine is crafted from 95% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc grapes. Cassis and berry notes dominate with elements of eucalyptus and cedar. Very smooth and elegant.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at marq1948@gmail.com.
