36 Hours in Toronto

Trillium Park, which opened in 2017 just west of Toronto’s inner harbor, remains relatively uncrowded despite having an outstanding view of the skyline. From Queens Quay West, it’s an easy half-hour walk to the park along the popular Martin Goodman Trail. Or rent a bicycle from one of the many bike-share stations and pedal along the lakeshore. After admiring the view of the iconic CN Tower across the water, head back toward downtown, stopping at nearby Inukshuk Park, with its 30-foot-high Inuit stone formation, and at the Toronto Music Garden, a grassy waterfront park where live performances take place during the summer.

In 2021, Torontonians applauded the reopening of Massey Hall, a landmark theater, after a three-year renovation and modernization project. For over a century, this downtown concert hall has hosted top international performers, including Charlie Parker, Aretha Franklin, Gordon Lightfoot and Jon Batiste. The revitalized theater is now part of a larger performing arts complex, the Allied Music Centre, with a new music venue and recording studios in an adjacent building. But one thing that hasn’t changed: the famously excellent acoustics. To hear for yourself, check the calendar for upcoming events, which include concerts by the Black Crowes, the indie-rock group Waxahatchee and the Canadian singer-songwriter Bruce Cockburn.

A former quarry and brick factory have been repurposed as Evergreen Brick Works, a cultural community center northeast of downtown. People flock here on Saturdays for the year-round farmers’ market, which reflects the diversity of the city itself. In addition to the usual market stalls — local cheeses, produce, fish, meat and bread — many vendors sell prepared foods that include Persian baklava, Swedish pastries and Tibetan momos (try the beef ones doused with hot sauce; 11.50 dollars for five). Seating is available between the historic brick kilns, but in fair weather, grab your food to go and explore the trails snaking through the surrounding forested ravines.

Little Portugal is packed with quirky independent shops and galleries, many conveniently clustered along Dundas Street West. Start at Easy Tiger Goods, a sunny boutique that sells pastel taper candles and cute made-in-Toronto ceramics. Peruse the rare print titles at Issues Magazine Shop, then shop for hand-crocheted coasters and embroidered tote bags at Etc Home. Consider investing in an artwork at Zaal Art Gallery, a cavernous space that opened last October showcasing paintings, photographs, sculptures and fashion from contemporary Iranian artists. Later, continue farther down the street to Bad Attitude Bread, a vegan bakery, for an Old Bay-seasoned Cheddar-flavored biscuit (5 dollars), and to Milky’s, a cool cafe nearby, for a spiced maple syrup latte (6.50 dollars).

Roast chicken and local produce are the winning formula at Taverne Bernhardt’s, a cozy neighborhood bistro on a quiet lane south of Dundas Street West, where date-night couples sip wine at the pewter-topped bar and groups of friends encircle tables along a soft leather banquette. The short seasonal menu recently included tender roasted carrots with herbs and tahini (20 dollars), in addition to the crisp-skinned, rotisserie-style chicken served on a platter with thick-cut fries, coleslaw and pickles, toasted sesame-seed buns, and a side of gravy (37 dollars). And for dessert, there’s a heaping swirl of soft serve in changing flavors, like Earl Grey (14 dollars).

The ocean may be hundreds of miles away, but you can still start the day with a walk on the beach. On the east side of the city, an easy streetcar ride from downtown, the neighborhood abutting Lake Ontario is known as the Beaches (or the Beach, depending on whom you ask) because of its long, sandy shoreline. Head down to the water to join locals walking their dogs through the sand. From the easternmost edge, it’s a leisurely half-hour promenade along the wood-plank boardwalk to Woodbine Beach, the widest stretch of sand lapped by the lake’s calm waves.

Yes, it’s a trek to the McMichael Canadian Art Collection, a sprawling gallery surrounded by acres of pristine woodland, about 17 miles northwest of downtown. But there’s no prettier place to become acquainted with some of Canada’s most influential artists: Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven, a collective of landscape painters who rose to fame in the early 20th century with their romantic depictions of Canadian nature. Admire the rural landscape paintings, including glacial mountains by Lawren Harris and placid lakes by A.J. Casson. Then visit galleries dedicated to contemporary Canadian works, including those by Inuit and First Nations artists, such as the brilliantly colorful paintings of Norval Morrisseau. Not keen on splurging for a car ride? There’s an equally edifying collection of Canadian art — minus the sylvan setting — at the Art Gallery of Ontario downtown (admission to the McMichael, 20 dollars; to the AGO, 30 dollars). (The AGO is temporarily closed because of a workers’ strike.)