Off the Menu: It’s getting harder to find restaurants open all night

During the first two decades of this century, the restaurant world seemed well on its way to being a 24/7 place.

Many of the major chains were experimenting with strategies that focused on what the industry then called “the late-night daypart,” and a fair number of independent eateries offered late-in-the-evening dining.

The pandemic, with its social distancing and lockdowns, suddenly curtailed all that. Now, four years out from March 2020, some of those changes have yet to reverse themselves. Restaurants that are always open are now a rarity, and finding a place to enjoy a nice meal after 9 p.m. is a near impossibility, especially on weeknights.

Data seems to indicate that this trend is real. According to information compiled by Yelp, the number of restaurants open all night has dropped by 18% since 2020. Even chains like Denny’s, whose concept is based on catering to after-midnight patronage, still struggle to resume chainwide 24-hour operation.

It’s also becoming increasingly clear this change is not just about a lingering restaurant industry labor shortage. Instead, it looks increasing like a permanent reset in consumer behavior driven by a host of forces - more work at home, less interest in evening events away-from-home, and a no-alcohol trend that works against socializing in bars and restaurants.

The population at large continues to reflect a demographic shift, with the proportion of individuals 65 and older now the fastest growing group. That’s not good news for restaurants interested in late night operations - older people are less inclined to be out and about after dark.

Another factor driving the shorter hours trend is the functional restructuring the pandemic forced on many restaurants. Having adapted to curtailed operating schedules during the health emergency, many restaurant franchisees and owners aren’t eager to go back to a longer, more grueling workweek.

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Side Dishes:

An email from Mike Desmarais, who runs the Comfort Kitchen and Bar in Huntington, brought news of a weekly specials update.

He is continuing his Monday Burger Night promotion, and on Wednesdays the Comfort Kitchen is still offering Parmesan “two ways” - chicken or eggplant.

Thursday’s featured entree is a Grilled Hanger Steak with Bacon-Blue Cheese Butter, and his Friday evening Seafood Fry offers either fish or shrimp with French fries.

New to the lineup, however, is a Saturday Roast Prime Rib served with au jus and fresh popovers.

On Sunday evenings appetizers are half-price.

Desmarais says this specials lineup should remain unchanged throughout the summer.

The Comfort Kitchen and Bar can be reached at 413-265-5742.

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The Crestview Country Club in Agawam will be hosting a Comical Mystery Dinner on Friday, April 26, with doors opening at 5:45 p.m.

The show for the evening is “Un-Happy Days,” a murderously funny tale of a cast reunion from a hit 1950s-themed TV series.

The multi-act performance is preceded by a buffet dinner. Tickets are available online; they are priced at $55 per person with an additional convenience fee added.

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The soda fountain special this month at Friendly’s Restaurants is a Turtle Conehead Sundae.

Made with a scoop of mint chocolate chip ice cream, the sundae is garnished turtle style with marshmallow and hot fudge. The turtle’s “flippers” are halved peanut butter cups; the eyes are M&M candies. A gummy worm gives the turtle a smile.

The Turtle Conehead Sundae will be available at participating Friendly’s locations through the end of April.

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“Too much is never enough.”

That phrase, often attributed to rock legend Mick Jagger, might very well apply to bacon’s role in the Whole Lotta Bacon Burger recently introduced to the Applebee’s Neighborhood Grill & Bar menu.

Available for a limited time only, the Whole Lotta Bacon Burger has bacon seared into the hamburger patty before that burger is topped with three strips of bacon and drizzled with a sweet-sour bacon sauce. Served on a brioche bun, the sandwich is garnished with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and onion.

Plated along with fries, the Whole Lotta Bacon Burger has a suggested menu price of $9.99.

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Tucker’s Restaurant in Southwick and E. Sliver Charcuterie are partnering to present a Charcuterie Workshop on April 26 at 6:15 p.m.

The workshop will lead participants through the creation of a charcuterie board, with a plenty of food styling tips shared along the way.

All ingredients and tools are provided; workshop participants will finish the session with a completely arranged platter ready to take home.

Tickets, which are available at Eventbrite.com, are $60 plus a convenience fee. For more details on the event, email esilvercharcuterie@gmail.com.

Workshop participants are invited to arrive early and enjoy dinner or an appetizer and drinks at Tuckers. For more information on the restaurant’s menu, visit the Tucker’s Restaurant website.

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Outback Steakhouses are offering a classic chop house special this month in the form of a Steak & Lobster entree. The meal deal include a sirloin steak, a steamed lobster tail, and a diner’s choice of two side dishes. The special will be available through May 7.

There’s an Outback Steakhouse at 1537 Riverdale Street in West Springfield; they answer at 413-746-5700. An Outback location also operates in Auburn on Southbridge Street.

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The Uno Pizzeria & Grill in Sturbridge is teaming up with Glen Pharmer Distillery of Franklin to do a four-course pairing dinner on Tuesday, April 30. The dinner, which will feature four of Glen Pharmer’s distilled spirits, will begin at 6:30 p.m. with a first course of Savory Oatmeal with Bacon, an introduction that will be followed by a Buffalo Chickpea Salad.

Puller Pork Tacos are to be the main course, with a Banana Foster Bread Pudding for dessert.

Tickets are $50 per person, with a no-alcohol “designated driver” ticket available for $40.

Reservations can be made by calling 508-347-6420.

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On Wednesday, April 24 from 4 to 7 p.m., HCC’s Culinary Arts Institute in Holyoke will be conducting an open house. Tours of the facility, tastes of what students are cooking, and a 4 p.m. ribbon-cutting to inaugurate the Institute’s new food truck will all be part of the fun.

The Culinary Arts Institute is located on Race Street in the heart of Holyoke’s Arts and Innovation District. The Institute picks up at 413-552-2823.

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The Subway chain of sandwich shops is continuing its rapid pace of new menu item development, this month introducing a quartet of wrap sandwiches.

Made with a lavash-style flatbread, the sandwiches include Homestyle Chicken Salad, made fresh in the restaurant, and a Honey Mustard Chicken wrap that features rotisserie-style chicken, Monterey cheese, and an assortment of standard sandwich garnishes enlivened with a sassy sweet honey mustard.

Turkey, Bacon, and Cheese features the rolled-up items that sandwich’s name suggests, with peppercorn ranch as a flavor-building supplement.

A Cali Caprese pairs up fresh mozzarella with sliced avocado then enhances that combination with garnish favorites like lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and a parmesan vinaigrette.

The four sandwiches will be on the Subway restaurants menu for an unspecified limited time.

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Springtime cupcake decorating is on the agenda next week at the Uno Pizzeria & Grill on Boston Road in Springfield.

On Tuesday, April 23 from 4 to 8 p.m., the restaurant will be hosting a springtime-themed cupcake decorating event which is being billed as a fun event for kids of all ages.

For more information or to make reservations, contact the restaurant at 413-543-6600.

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Two student organizations at the Smith Vocational and Agricultural High School in Northampton, Future Farmers of America and the Junior Chefs, have teamed up to present a Spring Pig Roast.

To be held on Friday, April 26 from 5:30 to 7 p.m., the Roast will feature pulled pork, barbecued chicken, roasted potatoes, coleslaw, cornbread, baked beans, dessert, and beverages.

Tickets are $25 for adults, $20 for seniors, and $9 for children ages 3 to 9.

The school answers at 413-587-1414.

Hugh Robert is a faculty member in Holyoke Community College’s hospitality and culinary arts program and has nearly 50 years of restaurant and educational experience. Robert can be reached online at OffTheMenuGuy@aol.com.

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