This loop hike passes through markedly different habitats and is beautiful the entire way. We begin outbound on the Matt Davis Trail across from Pantoll and soon enter the woods dotted with the flowers of hound’s tongue. After a little more than a mile, we emerge from the dense forest into the open light of grasslands and outstanding views of the Pacific. We traverse Mount Tamalpais’ open flanks for some time, occasionally ducking back briefly into its folds containing running water and trees. Back in the open, we encounter wildflowers along the trail and enjoy sweeping views of Stinson Beach, Bolinas and the outstretched Pacific Ocean.
On our return, we follow the Cataract Trail on a beautiful up-current riparian stretch along Cataract Creek. We encounter small falls and placid stretches, all accompanied by the creek’s musical melody. After passing through the meadow leading up to Rock Spring, we travel the Old Mine Trail to return to Pantoll, taking in expansive views over the ocean, the headlands and San Francisco.
• Summary of hike: The entire loop trail is about 6 miles. There are some climbs that are relatively steep but never for prolonged distances, and the footing, although generally excellent, is tricky in some places because of tangled roots or rocks. Dogs are not permitted. There are restrooms at Pantoll, and on our way back, two port-a-potties at Rock Spring.
• Getting there: Take Panoramic Drive past the Mountain Home Inn to Pantoll. Parking at the Pantoll lot costs $8 ($7 for seniors). Across from Pantoll on the uphill road, there are a few free parking spaces.
• The hike: The signed Matt Davis trailhead is across from Pantoll, along the uphill road climbing the mountain and about 25 yards from its entrance. After a short distance, we enter dense forest scattered with hound’s tongue and its small blue flowers. The shape of its leaves is responsible for the plant’s common name. In a couple of places, small cascades send water sliding across the trail, but they present no real obstacle.
After a mile and a quarter or so, we emerge from the forest into the light and a landscape covered in green, and almost immediately see the blue Pacific. You will notice a small knoll toward the ocean from a Matt Davis trail sign, and can make a short detour up it for some excellent views before returning to the trail.
We soon reach a fork in the trail with a sign pointing down to Stinson Beach and slightly upward for the Bolinas Ridge Trail (formerly called the Coastal Trail) to our next destination, Willow Camp Fire Road, 1.6 miles away. We take the upward trail and soon gaze over the steep incline of vibrant green slopes to Bolinas and the Pacific extending out and disappearing into a soft haze. Traveling farther, we look down on Stinson Beach, the Bolinas Lagoon and Bolinas. On a really clear day, we could see all the way to Point Reyes.
The last few hills outbound display two remarkable wildflowers: western larkspur (royal blue to purple petals with a spur protruding backward from the flower) and baby blue-eyes peering back at you from its roundish flower of pale blue petals with a white center.
We arrive at Willow Camp Fire Road, 3.6 miles from our trailhead, and turn right to cross West Ridgecrest Boulevard. Once across, we walk down the fire road for a short distance, take the signed short connector Ray Murphy Trail to the Cataract Trail, and turn right and hike the Cataract Trail upstream toward Rock Spring.
Walking along Cataract Creek is beguiling. The creek flows smoothly or slides over downed trees or rocks and plunges into pools below. The light flickers through the leaves and dances off the water, while the creek serenades us with its melody. As we continue farther upstream, we think about how the creek changes — from the smooth, easy flow before us to the long wild dive down Cataract Gulch some 3 miles away.
Cataract Creek collects the drops, rills and braids of water flowing down every crease, fold and ravine of the land above — its watershed. As the creek continues downstream, the entering water swells the creek until it plummets in great, swift leaps down Cataract Gulch before emptying into Alpine Lake.
Finishing our enchanting hike along Cataract Creek, we leave the cover of the woods and walk through a meadow to the Rock Spring parking lot. We turn left and at the end of the parking area, climb the crushed rock fire road toward the Mountain Theatre. Near the fire road top, we turn right on the signed Old Mine Trail toward Pantoll. Heading down, we take in tremendous views of the ocean, the bay and beyond.
We finish our hike and think back. It has shown us much of the magnificence that Mt. Tam has to offer. Still, it feels good to know that there are many more hikes before us to enjoy and explore the joys of the mountain and the rest of Marin County.
A longtime avid hiker and Marin resident, Jim Holden is the author of two nonfiction books: “It Happened in Marin” and “Adventurous Lives, Daring Acts.” He can be reached at MarinhikingJim@gmail.com
