DINING

Columbus restaurants rated as Ohio's best for tacos, wings, ramen, vegan, pastry and more

Bob Vitale
Columbus Dispatch

A few times a year, some travel writer from someplace on the coasts takes a wrong turn at Chicago, stops in Columbus and declares to the rest of the world they have discovered a hidden culinary gem in the heart of flyover country.

Food & Wine magazine recently called Columbus "a stellar under-the-radar culinary destination" and ranked our city as one of the best in the country for bakeries. A couple years ago, Tasting Table called us "one of the nation's most underrated powerhouse food cities."

Perhaps a city named for the guy who "discovered" a 16 million-square-mile hemisphere inhabited by 60 million people at the time shouldn't make light of finding those hidden gems, which are, arguably, a bit more hidden.

Still, we do get discovered a lot. Columbus is a regularly featured locale for content creators compiling national best lists of restaurants and dishes.

Here are a few we've come across lately.

Mexican restaurant: Los Guachos Taqueria

Roasted pork, for tacos al pastor at Los Guachos Taqueria in Columbus, comes directly off the spit. Founded by Mexican immigrants Carlos Nonato and his sister, Edith, Los Guachos has expanded from a food truck to four restaurants in the Columbus area.

Who says?Taste of Home, “The best Mexican restaurant in every state”

What did they say? “Warning! You’ll definitely need an afternoon siesta after a stop at Los Guachos. Because no one leaves hungry from this Ohio eatery, where tacos al pastor (they claim theirs are the best in Columbus) and a sip of their smooth horchata are enough to satisfy your Southwestern cravings. Let your inner bartender loose with these crafty tequila drinks."

Our two cents: The menu is extensive and worth exploring. In addition to the marinated pork, tacos also come with steak, brisket, chicken, chorizo, tripe, tongue, fish or all veggies. All those meats also come in quesadillas, taco salads, tortas, nachos and Mexican pizzas.

Locations: 5221 Godown Road, northwest side; 1344 Cherry Bottom Road, Gahanna; 1121 S. Hamilton Road, east side; 7370 Sawmill Road, far north side; losguachostaqueria.com

Italian restaurant: Marcella’s Short North

Customers dine at Marcella's in the Short North. The restaurant also has a location at Polaris.

Who says? Lovefood.com, “Every U.S. state’s best Italian restaurant”

What did they say? “This lively Columbus restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere with a vintage-inspired interior. There's a menu of comforting Italian dishes, such as risotto with chicken, sundried tomato, and torn basil; baked rigatoni; and ravioli with ricotta, Parmesan and truffle. There's also a great wine and cocktail list, with a daily, early-evening happy hour.”

Our two cents: Don’t feel you need a grand Italian meal at Marcella's. You’ll be just as satisfied with a small-plates selection of meats, cheeses, antipasti and appetizers. And always end your evening with some house-made limoncello.

Location: 615 N. High St., Short North; marcellasrestaurant.com

Wings: OH Pizza and Brew

The Nashville Hot Rub Breaded Wings from OH Pizza and Brew get their kick from cayenne and their sweetness from brown sugar.

Who says?Mashed, “The best wings in every state”

What did they say?OH Pizza and Brew is much more than just pizza pies and pints of beer. They also have Nashville Hot Rub Breaded Wings, the finest wings in the city of Columbus or any other city in the state of Ohio. These are the only breaded wings on their menu, and that’s part of what makes them so good. The mix of brown sugar and cayenne pepper is perfect and will turn you into an instant fan who will join the legion of satisfied patrons.”

Our two cents: The downtown restaurant posted on Facebook last week that it is looking for a new home because of ongoing issues with the owner of its building. Fans have invited them to relocate everywhere from the other side of Capitol Square, where Pizza Rustica recently closed, to Cincinnati and Cleveland.

Location: 88 E. Broad St., Downtown; ohpizzabrew.com

German food: Schmidt’s Sausage Haus

Schmidt's Sausage Haus, German Village

Who says?Cheapism, “Best German Restaurant in (Almost) Every State”

What did they say?Schmidt’s is more than just a great German restaurant; it’s a bona fide historical landmark that traces its history back to the 1880s, when J. Fred Schmidt emigrated from Germany and opened a meat-packing plant in the heart of Columbus’ German Village. That has evolved into a well-known sausage brand and one of Ohio’s top-rated German restaurants, which is saying a lot given its many German eateries. Just be prepared to wait because this place gets crowded.”

Our two cents: And leave room for a cream puff!

Location: 240 E. Kossuth St., German Village; schmidthaus.com

Pastrami sandwich: Katzinger’s Delicatessen

Classic neon lights at Katzinger’s Delicatessen in German Village.

Who says?Far & Wide, “These Pastrami Sandwich Shops Are the Best in the U.S.”

What did they say? “Not to be confused with New York’s Katz’s Deli, Ohio’s capital city hosts some hefty doses of pastrami goodness at Katzinger’s Delicatessen, which has been in the business of slinging sammies just shy of 40 years. This being the Midwest, Katzinger’s offers some rather hefty pastrami options, including Big Bob’s Belly Balancer (say that 10 times fast), with its complement of hot pastrami, corned beef, coleslaw and Russian dressing served on rye bread.

"Or, for an even beefier option, there’s Bill, Gary and Beuford’s Upper Yough Reuben, with pastrami, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut or coleslaw, as well as the requisite Russian dressing on rye. And another great reason to come to Katzinger’s is its prices. You’d pay two to three times as much in Manhattan for such titanic sandwiches. You’re welcome."

Our two cents: And leave room for the free pickles!

Locations: 475 S. 3rd St., German Village; 7160 Muirfield Drive, Dublin; katzingers.com

Ramen: Meshikou Ramen

Meshikou Ramen's black ramen

Who says?Lovefood.com, “The best ramen in every state”

What did they say? “If you're not a ramen purist, then the offerings at Meshikou Ramen in Ohio's capital might be for you. The brothless Yuzu Soy Mazemen is a perfect pick, featuring noodles drizzled with a sweet Japanese yuzu (sometimes referred to as ponzu) soy dressing and then finished with pork and shredded seaweed. There's a range of ramen dishes built on a savory chicken broth, too.”

Our two cents: Get the broth. Meshikou offers clear chicken (chintan), silky chicken (paitan) or vegetarian broth as the base for 12 different ramen bowls.

Location: 1506 Bethel Road, northwest side; meshikou.com

Best Vegan: Paulie Gee’s Short North

Paulie Gee's squares

Who says?Food & Wine, “Best vegan (and vegan-friendly) restaurants in all 50 states”

What did they say? “For a place that offers Hog Pit brisket marmalade (yes, really), they also put a surprising amount of love and care into their vegan pizzas. And superlatives are cheap these days, but it might just be the best vegan pie you've had. Ever. Their In Ricotta Da Vegan is topped with fat dollops of creamy house-made cashew ricotta that could inspire a short gospel.

"The cashew flavor actually isn't terribly strong, and it serves its intended purpose perfectly: as a cool, rich complement to the spicy house-made vegan sausage and sweet marinara. It's topped with baby arugula that's surprisingly spicy, and finished generously with EVOO. There are actually three other vegan pies on the menu, although the (In) Ricotta Da Vegan is probably the most popular. But get any, and you likely won't regret it."

Our two cents: Make that four other vegan pies at Paulie Gee's since Food & Wine compiled its listings. The Simple & Red, Vegan Supreme and Jeb’s Garden also feature that house-made cashew ricotta, while the Vegan Regina is a plant-based take on a classic Margherita with tomatoes, basil, Follow Your Heart Mozzarella and olive oil.

Location: 1195 N. High St., Columbus; pauliegee.com

Coffee Shop: Parable Cafe

Raspberry and ruby chocolate croissant, and the chocolate, orange and Nutella croissant.

Who says?Taste of Home, “The best coffee shop in your state”

What did they say? "Ohio native and deputy editor Rachel Seis can’t recommend Parable Coffee in Columbus enough. ‘The space is stunning!’ she says − and so is the coffee. The menu here is full of the standards you expect, as well as innovative sips, like a sesame miso caramel latte and a rosemary-pink peppercorn cappuccino. But what really makes Parable Coffee stand out is that this shop allows its employees to ‘engage with customers on a gratuity-free basis,’ according to the company website. ‘Livable wages and benefits are made possible through the pricing structure.’”

Our two cents: Parable released its spring pastry menu last week. A highlight is the Strawberry Dream Supreme, a croissant-like pastry with strawberry, Earl Gray pastry cream and bergamot glaze.

Location: 149 S. High St., Downtown; parable.coffee

Bakery: Belle’s Bread

A treat from Belle's Bread on the northwest side.

Who says?Food & Wine: “The 100 Best Bakeries in America”

What did they say? “Back in Before Times, when West Coasters were standing in line for hours to try Japanese-style cheesecake instead of a gallon of milk and some hand soap at the supermarket, lucky dessert-havers in Ohio's capital city had unfettered access to one of the finest examples of the genre this side of the Pacific − wonderfully light, but never too light, and packed with flavor. If you live nearby and are not in the habit of keeping their classic milk bread on your kitchen counter for casual, everyday use, it's never too late to do the right thing.”

Our two cents: This one is from back in 2020, as if the pandemic references didn’t give that away. But Belle’s Bread remains a favorite at Food & Wine. Earlier this month, the magazine named Columbus as one of the nation’s top bakery cities, and it cited Belle’s Bread and Dan the Baker, near Grandview Heights, as its reasons. One nonbakery recommendation from us: the combo shaved ice with matcha flavoring, soft-serve ice cream and sweet adzuki beans.

Location: 1168 Kenny Centre Mall, northwest side; bellesbread.japanmarketplace.com

Independent café: Northstar Café

Northstar's Burrata and Crispy Kale Brick Oven Pizza includes fontina cheese and burrata, oven-crisped kale and a drizzle of hot honey.

Who says?Lovefood.com, “The best independent café in every state”

What did they say? "This café in Columbus’ Short North Art District is as hip as its locale, yet always warm and welcoming. People love the bright décor, and the menu includes coffee made with locally roasted beans, heavenly pancakes, seasonal salads and a cracking veggie burger. There are two other locations in Columbus, plus one in Liberty Township, one in Shaker Heights and another in Westerville, Ohio."

Our two cents: Lunch recommendation (as if you don’t already have your own Northstar favorites): the Burrata and Crispy Kale Brick Oven Pizza. Fontina cheese and burrata add creaminess, kale that gets roasted during baking adds texture and a little bitterness, and a drizzle of hot honey adds a sweet-and-spicy kick.

Locations: 951 N. High St., Short North; 4015 Townsfair Way, Easton Town Center; 4241 N. High St., Clintonville; 109 S. State St., Westerville; thenorthstarcafe.com

rvitale@dispatch.com

Instagram: @dispatchdining