Ukrainian Brewers Fight to Establish Identity With New Style of Beer
Although efforts to codify Ukrainian golden ale started before Russia’s invasion, the ongoing war has lent potent symbolism to official recognition.
Proof of its existence: a Ukrainian golden ale.
Photographer: Evgeny Bazaleev
In the months following Russia’s February 2022 invasion of Ukraine, US businesses were eager to show support for the besieged nation by flying flags of blue and gold. Few industries were more enthusiastic than craft beer. The bright hues were emblazoned on tap handles, and beers named Brew for Ukraine, Resist and Putin Huylo (a Ukrainian insult) were brewed to raise awareness of the war and relief funds for its victims. Some brewmasters even produced the native Ukrainian golden ale.
But when drinkers curious to learn more about this hazy, malt-forward wheat ale looked to enthusiast site Untappd, the US-based Brewer’s Association or even the international Beer Judge Certification Program, they found something odd: Ukrainian golden ale didn’t officially exist.