‘Old school’ dim sum, late-night street food, Italian brunch: a Hong Kong music entrepreneur’s go-to places to eat

Johnny Hiller, music director at a Hong Kong restaurant, is Eurasian, and seeks out diverse cuisines and record shops with equal passion
He has eaten Peking duck in the same place in Hong Kong for decades, and shares his Japanese lunch go-to and a Latin American restaurant that always impresses

Food and Drinks

Andrew Sun

Published: 12:45pm, 10 Apr 2024

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Music entrepreneur and DJ Johnny Hiller is the music director at Melody – House of Food and Music (100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong). He spoke to Andrew Sun.

I’ve been into food since I was very young. I learned to cook at the age of eight out of necessity as my mum was bedridden.

She gave me play-by-play instructions on how to prepare a traditional Cantonese bak chit gai, or white poached chicken, which produces a nutritious clear broth.

These days, I make sourdough bread early in the morning, which is a grounding and meditative experience.

Johnny Hiller has been into food since he was young, and learned to cook when he was eight. Photo: Johnny Hiller

One of my favourite things was watching both my grandmas in Germany and Hong Kong cook elaborate family meals, from Cantonese dishes to European-style roasts and stews.

Growing up multicultural, travelling in different Southeast Asian countries and living in Hong Kong, Beijing and London has exposed me to a multitude of cuisines. These days when I travel, hitting up food markets is as important as seeking out record stores.

Sushi at Sushi Masa. Hiller says this Japanese restaurant in Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan neighbourhood is his go-to for lunch. Photo: Instagram @sushimasa_sheungwan

I tend to mostly stay local when it comes to dining. For me, that’s Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan neighbourhood. For a Japanese lunch, I like Sushi Masa (105 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan. Tel: 2886 9009).

A super local dim sum spot is Ka Ho Restaurant (UG/F, 328 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan. Tel: 2815 8133) which has that old-school vibe.

I visit Yung Kee (32-40 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: 2522 1624) and Din Tai Fung (four locations in Hong Kong including 68 Yee Woo Street, Causeway Bay. Tel: 3160 8998) for a slightly more refined experience. I like to take both visitors and friends to these spots.

Xiaolongbao soup dumplings at Din Tai Fung. Photo: Din Tai Fung

Another place I take visitors to Hong Kong is Peking Garden (various locations including Shop B1, Basement, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Road, Central. Tel: 2526 6456). Most people like Peking duck and I’ve been going there for over 30 years. The chefs know what they are doing.

I’ll always return to Yardbird (G/F, 154-158 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan. Tel: 2547 9273) for its consistency and excellent service.

Also, next door to Melody, Lucale (Shop A, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun. Tel: 3611 1842) does an excellent brunch. The portions are incredibly generous and the Italian flavours are so authentic.

Barbecued Peking duck at Peking Garden. Photo: Peking Garden

Hand-cut tagliolini pasta with lobster, prawns and scallop ragout at Lucale. Photo: Lucale

For late-night street food, I recommend Oi Man Sang (Shop B-C, 1 Shek Kip Mei Street, Sham Shui Po. Tel: 2393 9315) for its sidewalk dai pai dong vibe.

For special occasions or splurges, I go to Mono (5/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central. WhatsApp: 9726 9301). Chef Ricardo Chaneton is Venezuelan and his Latin American tasting menus deliver every time.

Outside Hong Kong, I have a few favourites in London. I always visit Hawksmoor (various locations including 5A Air Street, London. Tel: +44 20 7406 3980) for a steak. I also like Ottolenghi Islington (287 Upper Street, London. Tel: +44 20 7288 1454) for a casual bite.

Brat (1/F, 4 Redchurch Street, London) in Shoreditch is a culinary gem that shares Melody’s passion for cooking with fire, and it’s exceptional. With a focus on Spanish cuisine, particularly with a heavy Basque influence, it delivers an unforgettable dining experience.

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