Eight self-described “mom friends” tuck themselves into a corner booth at Qiao Lin Hotpot just west of Chinatown. As meat and vegetables cook in broth in the table’s center, and the smell of spices fill the air, they catch up — chatting about kids, husbands and the best birthday celebrations.
“It’s therapeutic,” said Tammy Boyer. “It’s not just for the food.”
“It’s time together. Lots of laughter, some tears, all of the above,” Barbara Chun adds as she rocks her three-month old baby.
It’s not hard to pick out their group in the restaurant. Not only does the staff recognize them, but they wear colorful hot pot-themed sweatshirts that mention “sisterhood,” “friendship” and “laughter” in Chinese along with matching sparkly sneakers. They even hosted part of Chun’s baby shower at Qiao Lin.
With origins potentially dating back thousands of years, Chinese hot pot is at its core a “communal” food, according to Jeff Mao, who wrote the book “Essential Chinese Hot Pot Cookbook.” It’s not a single dish, rather an “occasion” and a “way of cooking,” similar to American barbecue, Mao said. Chicago’s hot pot restaurants serve regional variations of the meal, while valuing its communal nature, attracting hot pot novices and lovers alike.
Like the name suggests, hot pot is centered around a bowl of simmering, flavored broth filled with thinly sliced ingredients, from lamb to beef to fish balls. Mao said it’s common to have one spicy broth and one not, following the Chinese concept of yin and yang. Chinese hot pot is also known for its expansive sauce bars.
Most of Chicago’s hot pot restaurants are in or near Chinatown — many of which are chains with spots around the world. But the broth, ingredients and cooking sauces don’t always look (or taste) the same. Liuyishou Hotpot, for example, is known for its very spicy Chongqing soup base. Mrs. Gu Skewers Hot Pot serves its ingredients on skewers, while Shoo Loong Kan dishes out Sichuan-style hot pot inside a dining room with ornate paneling and lanterns.
Chicago’s Qiao Lin Hotpot, the first U.S. location of the Chinese franchise, is on the first floor of the 88 Marketplace building, an “Asian food wonderland” with a food court and what’s touted as the largest Chinese supermarket in the city. From short ribs to scallops to meatballs, there’s a variety of options on their menu. Some ingredients are a bit more adventurous, such as marinated beef tongue and duck gizzard.
“I really recommend the spicy (broth), but if people are looking for more light, healthy I would say the herbal chicken (broth). If they want to do a flavorful one I would say the golden chicken soup is very popular,” said manager Oaki Cheung, who added that the price per person typically ranges from $30 to $60.
Cheung noted that Qiao Lin is opening its second location in Streeterville this summer, at 200 E. Illinois St.
The group at Qiao Lin started their biweekly catch-ups almost two years ago, saying it’s a form of “mom therapy.” They met through their elementary school-aged children who attend the British International School of Chicago in Lincoln Park.
Some of the moms, who are in their 30s to 40s, formed a group during summer vacation, planning various activities throughout the city for their kids. After shopping and visiting Ping Tom Memorial Park in Chinatown, one of the women suggested eating hot pot. The tasty vegan options kept them coming to Qiao Lin to accommodate dietary preferences. They also really enjoy bamboo fungus.
“It was so good, and everybody liked it in our group. We talk in here. We laugh. We stay here three to four hours when we come,” said Emma Park.
‘Great food’ in Chinatown
For restaurateur and chef Tony Hu, the ability to sit with friends and family, cooking and talking while eating, is what’s made hot pot so popular. It’s “so much fun,” he added, when people at the same table can choose their own favorite flavors or textures for a meal — spicy or mild, for example.
Hu, a graduate of the Sichuan Culinary Institute who’s known for the embattled Lao Sze Chuan restaurant chain, also opened Shoo Loong Kan and Mrs. Gu. He said some of the most sought-after ingredients are premium beef slices, shrimp paste and premium lamb slices.
“It’s very popular in China, and I’m sure it will be popular in the whole world,” he said. “1.4 billion eat it, 1.4 billion people love it. They’re happy for a reason.”
When the temperature drops during the winter, he said it seems like Chicagoans are more excited to dine on warm foods.
“Chicago is the biggest city in the Midwest. It’s the heart of America,” he said. “Chinatown is a great spot for great food.”
While Mao said hot pot has been popular in the U.S. for a long time among Asian communities, he theorized that multinational corporations opening more restaurants in major cities and the craze for spicy foods and condiments are helping its rise.
He said hot pot is also fairly easy to make at home and feed lots of people. He said the essential supplies are strainer baskets, a sauce bar and a vessel to hold the boiling broth, such as a camp stove or an electric skillet with high sides.
In his book, he lays out some of his favorite recipes, such as Hainan chicken coconut broth, which he said is good for people who enjoy light-flavored broth and is inspired by the Hainan-style poached chicken dish. Sometimes there’s also etiquette to keep in mind when eating, such as deciding whether the ingredients in the hot pot are fair game for everyone or just the person who put it in, he said.
“Different families or different friends will have their own variations on how they deal with that,” Mao laughs.
Eating hot pot with up to 10 people was common growing up in Mao’s family, both for everyday meals and special occasions, he said. He remembers cooking as much shrimp as he could as a little kid — and not being forced to eat his vegetables — and meeting up for hot pot with his grandparents around Christmas time.
“Growing up in the United States as a first-generation American, it’s a way of connecting back to culture and learning more about how food works in China as opposed to what we think of as Chinese American food,” he said.
At Qiao Lin, the women snap photos, sip champagne and mix sauces during their March outing. Conversation flows from vacation plans to their young kids who are “sort of dating” to who got the angriest when one of them parked in front of a fire hydrant.
When asked why they continue to meet up after two years, they agree that it’s because they love each other.
“There’s a comfort about it,” said Elizabeth Tye. “Having a relaxed atmosphere where we can really talk, talk about mom life.”
