36 Hours in Munich

Start by getting to know Munich’s beloved central park. From Odeonsplatz, a 19th-century square, stroll to the Hofgarten, a manicured park surrounded with hedges and crowned by an elegant central gazebo. From there, cross into the rambling Englischer Garten, which is larger than New York’s Central Park. Wave to the bathers bobbing up and down in the Eisbach, the freezing man-made river that snakes through the park, and watch the daredevil surfers who ride its waves. You can also stop for an inaugural pint at the beer garden next to the Chinese Tower, a five-story wooden pagoda; take a boat out on the placid Kleinhesseloher See lake; or visit the hilltop Monopteros, a 19th-century replica of a Greek temple that was built for the Bavarian king Ludwig I.

Germany’s culture of commemoration, seen in its willingness to examine the crimes it committed during World War II, make the country unique. The Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism, which opened in 2015 at the site of a former Nazi headquarters, charts the history of Nazism in Munich, the birthplace of the movement. It traces the rise of the party and Adolf Hitler, including his failed but deadly coup, known as the Beer Hall Putsch, in 1923, while also describing the persecution of Munich’s Jewish population, which numbered roughly 12,000 before Hitler’s rise to power, and the city’s postwar reckoning with its Nazi past. The current temporary exhibition (through July 28) examines right-wing terrorism in post-war Germany to the present day, including the 1980 Oktoberfest bombing and the 2016 attack at a Munich shopping mall. (Entry, free.)

Get a taste of modern Bavaria at Der Dantler, one of a new crop of restaurants injecting Alpine cuisine with Asian accents. The restaurant, in the former working-class neighborhood of Giesing, has a casual, hole-in-the-wall vibe; friendly and attentive staff; and, in the evenings, a frequently changing five-course menu (105 euros per person) with ambitious preparations of regional produce. A recent dinner included roasted carrots coated with preserved lemon and a spicy macadamia crunch; and a tender saddle of veal in jus, served with schupfnudeln, or German gnocchi. Vegetarian and pescatarian options available. The wine pairing (currently 56 euros per person) is a great way to get to know the menu’s German and Austrian bottles, including some adventurous natural wines. Reservations required.

Weisswurstfrühstück is a time-honored German tradition in the south: A pair of boiled veal sausages, eaten with sweet mustard and a chewy pretzel, washed down with beer. It’s the Bavarian breakfast of champions. Try it at Drei Mühlen, a restaurant that gets its sausages from the area’s best-known butcher, Magnus Bauch. Drei Mühlen recently raised its prices, but even so, its weisswurstfrühstück remains an unbeatable deal at €6.55 (which includes a half-liter of Augustiner lager beer). It’s a bustling locals’ hang, especially on weekends, so you might end up sitting at the cramped bar. Reservations recommended. For vegetarians, Café Zimt und Trallala, around the corner, bakes some of the best croissants in the city and not-to-be-missed franzbrötchen, a sticky, flaky, cinnamon-and butter-pastry (€2.80 each).

After you’ve polished off your beer, head to the Isar, the river that flows through Munich. Cross the Wittelsbacherbrücke, a bridge, and walk along the dirt paths on the river’s grassy bank. A bold, decade-long rewilding project, completed in 2011, widened the Isar here, purified its waters and added a series of gravel paths along its banks. Watch (and maybe even join) the courageous swimmers carried by the strong current around the Weideninsel, a small island that emerged during the rewilding. To keep exploring the banks of the Isar, walk south, past the lovingly maintained Rosengarten, whose flowers are just starting to bloom. You will soon reach the Flaucher, a series of pebbled beaches, connected by an elevated walkway, that are popular with both nudists and families who barbecue (they keep to their separate shores).

If the Englischer Garten are the lungs of Munich, then the Viktualienmarkt, one of Europe’s best outdoor food markets, is the city’s stomach. Try the heavenly pressed sandwiches at Luiginos Bio Feinkost, which include a pastrami-Cheddar melt or grilled eggplant, chevre and spinach (from €6.90); or head to Caspar Plautz, a potato merchant that serves stuffed baked spuds (from €7.50 a plate). If the weather is inclement, duck inside the temple-like Eataly directly next door for a slice of focaccia (from about €6). For dessert, try the freshly fried schmalznudels – Bavarian doughnuts — at Café Frischhut (from €3) — or the decadent cakes and pastries at Lea Zapf (from €4). The house-roasted coffee at the Kaffeerösterei Viktualienmarkt might be the best in town.

Der Blaue Reiter, or the Blue Rider, a group of Expressionist artists which coalesced in Munich in 1911, is arguably the city’s greatest contribution to 20th-century art. In boldly colorful works, the Blue Rider artists used modern painting as a conduit to the spiritual. The Lenbachhaus Museum, in the city’s central Kunstareal, or museum quarter, boasts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the group whose members included Wassily Kandinsky, Franz Marc and Paul Klee. The trove exists because of Gabriele Münter, a distinctive and prolific painter who was also Kandinsky’s lover (he eventually left her to move back to Russia). In 1957, when she turned 80, she donated more than 1,000 works by herself, Kandinsky, Marc, Klee and others to the museum. (Entry, €10.)

Germany is home to more than 80 opera companies and the Bayerische Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera), which traces its history back more than 350 years, might be the country’s finest. These days, it has a reputation for a varied operatic repertoire, often presented in avant-garde productions. Locals love to get gussied up for performances at the company’s grand main venue, the nearly 2,000-seat Nationaltheater. Germany’s lavish public subsidies mean that there are tickets for every budget, including over 300 standing room tickets for under €20. Upcoming highlights include Romeo Castellucci’s densely symbolic take on Wagner’s “Tannhäuser,” a new “Tosca,” directed by the Hungarian filmmaker Kornel Mundruczo and the summertime premiere of “Le Grand Macabre,” directed by Krzysztof Warlikowski, in honor of the Hungarian composer Gyorgy Ligeti’s centennial.

Munich still lags behind Berlin when it comes to clubbing, but its nightlife has become much more varied over the past decade. One of the most unusual club venues is Bahnwärter Thiel, a cultural space in the edgy Schlachhofviertel district, just south of the center of town. The large outdoor area contains abandoned subway cars and sea freight containers, one of which contains the Kulturhaus, a club that attracts some of Germany’s best techno D.J.s. (Most concert tickets, €10.) A few blocks away is the Alte Utting, a bar and event space in a decommissioned passenger steam ship perched high above street level on a disused railway bridge.

On Sundays, Munich’s state-run museums charge €1 entry to their permanent exhibitions. If you need to choose just one, head to the Alte Pinakothek, one of the world’s finest collections of European paintings, which is housed under the soaring ceiling of an early-19th-century building. Highlights include a richly varied assortment of paintings by Peter Paul Rubens, which looks more stunning than ever after recent improvements to the skylights. More than 200 paintings in the main upper galleries have changed places as part of a recent reorganization that eschews traditional ordering along geographical and chronological lines in favor of a more flexible presentation. If you have time to spare, cross the road to the Pinakothek der Moderne, home to 20th- and 21st-century art. Be warned, though: It will set you back another euro.

Man does not live by art alone. After you’re done soaking in centuries’ worth of masterpieces, head over to the Königlicher Hirschgarten, one of the world’s largest beer gardens, founded in 1791. Find a spot in the main 7,000-seat area, which is self-service and has long, shared tables and Augustiner lager on tap. Sausages, potato salad and rotisserie chicken are king here, but the steckerlfisch, a whole grilled fish on a stick, is also a local delicacy. (Half-liter beer, €4.20; beer garden food, €3 to €20.) After lunch, stroll through the nearby Nymphenburg Palace, the former summer residence of Bavaria’s ruling family. Explore the 445-acre garden and marvel at the palace’s vast main building, whose 2,000-foot-long facade is larger than that of Versailles (gardens and parks entry, free; ceremonial rooms, €8).