Cashmere is so luxurious, it’s been dubbed the “diamond fiber.” How many other fabrics make you feel cozy, polished and put-together? “It’s soft, light and yet has great thermal insulation thanks to its crispy fiber structure,” says Bükra Kalayci of nonprofit Global Standard, the world’s leading standard for organic textile certification. But, despite cashmere’s obvious benefits, many consumers shy away from it. Why? Two reasons: price tag and maintenance. Yes, it can tip the expensive end of the scale (although with the right care it will last a lifetime), but it’s possible to find quality, affordable cashmere on the market, too.
Skip the dry cleaning bill: Once you figure out how to wash cashmere, you can easily maintain your ... [+]
Once you find a sweater or scarf you love, you want to take care of it. One of the biggest myths surrounding cashmere is that it has to be dry-cleaned. Not true, says stylist Ella Barnette. “With the right care and attention, cashmere can absolutely be washed at home. And it actually requires very little washing, making it a perfect low-maintenance material.” Is it possible that cashmere is wildly misunderstood? To find out, we spoke to top fashion stylists, textile experts, cashmere addicts and home organizers to discover the best ways to keep your cashmere in tip-top condition.
What Is Cashmere Exactly?
Cashmere is a member of the wool family, and is essentially a fiber made from the hairs of Kashmir goats in Central Asia. As a winter fabric, it’s tough to beat, delivering both style and substance. But, be warned, not all cashmere is created equal. “Higher-quality cashmere tends to retain its softness and shape better after washing compared to lower-quality varieties,” says Barnette. “Look for tightly-knit fibers, even texture and minimal pilling.” Experts agree that White + Warren’s cashmere crewneck and Naadam’s pullover sweater tick the right boxes. Knitwear consultant, Michelle Diamond, adds: “A nice cashmere sweater will have good tension and recovery. In store, if it already looks pilled or worn from customers, that’s not a good sign.”
White + Warren’s crewneck was the top pick in our tested review of the best cashmere sweaters.
Any other red flags? Fashion insiders say that extremely low prices, uneven texture, or an itchy-scratchy feel are signs of low-grade cashmere. And then there’s the sustainability angle. “Cashmere is a rare fiber that increases cashmere goat-breeding risks to meet the rising commercial demand,” says Kalayci. “When it comes to the environmental, ethical and social aspects, the first thing to do is check the label: Is the item organically certified? Choosing GOTS-certified cashmere ensures the workers who created the garment are treated fairly [as well as the animals.]” Remember, cashmere can blended with lower-quality synthetics, which have to be listed on the tag. Brands might describe a sweater as having “‘a cashmere feel” or “touch,” which is not the same thing. Looking to splurge on long-lasting cashmere? One of our favorites is Jenni Kayne’s iconic Fisherman sweater.
How Often Should You Wash Cashmere?
Not as often as you’d think. “Cashmere is naturally antibacterial and doesn’t need to be washed frequently,” says Frej Lewenhaupt, co-founder and CEO of Steamery. “If you over-wash your cashmere garment, it will lose its color and luster.” Experts find that washing your cashmere twice or three times a season is ample. Stylist Lindsay Weiss from Coco In Cashmere agrees. “I’ll wash mine every four or five wears. If you wash after every wear, you risk damaging the yarn.” Plus, there are sneaky ways to extend time between washes, says Diamond. “Wearing a t-shirt or a layer underneath the sweater creates a barrier between the fibers and your skin. That way you can get away with several gentle wears before you wash it.”
Higher-quality cashmere tends to retain its softness and shape better after washing, according to ... [+]
Should You Machine Wash Or Hand Wash Cashmere?
Either is fine, according to the experts—as long as you follow the guidelines. A pro tip: Measure your garment before you wash it. “Cashmere can lose its shape during washing,” says Jennifer Bakker, my fellow cofounder of our home organizing company, Maison Haven. “If you note down the measurements beforehand, you’ll know exactly how much to stretch it out before it dries.”
How To Machine Wash Cashmere
Turn the garment inside out, and place it in a mesh bag for protection. Avoid using enzyme-based detergents that can harm yarns. “Our Delicate Laundry Detergent is specifically designed for protein-based materials like cashmere,” says Lewenhaupt. And always set the washer to the most delicate setting, she says. “Ideally no higher than 68 degrees, as the combination of heat and movement will cause the wool to shrink.” How to avoid creasing? Remove your cashmere from the washing machine as soon as the load is done.
How To Hand Wash Cashmere
Add specialist detergent into a sink filled with cool water (not ice-cold). Then place your cashmere garment under the water, gently agitating it to distribute the soap. Think gentle. Imagine you’re massaging conditioner into your hair—that’s the pressure you’re going for. You can leave it to soak for up to 30 minutes. Then rinse well by running cool water through the garment until the water is no longer soapy. Always wash like colors with like—whites and beiges separate from colors—to avoid the dyes bleeding into each other.
Hand shape cashmere back to its original dimensions and use a steamer to remove any creases.
What’s The Best Way To Dry Cashmere?
Step away from the tumble dryer. The key to drying cashmere successfully is to shape it back into its original dimensions, and then lay the garment flat. “I love the burrito method,” says Diamond. “After washing, lay your garment on a fresh towel and roll it up like a burrito, gently pressing on the towel to get the excess water out. You can do this a few times. Once you’ve gotten a good amount of the water out, lay it flat on a dry towel.” Whatever you do, don’t hang it up to dry or wring the sweater out, says Weiss. “Fibers are most delicate when wet. A hanger will leave marks in the shoulders, and can also create a misshapen sweater.” Finally, avoid drying cashmere in direct sunlight, or near a radiator because heat can shrink or damage yarns.
How To Deal With….
Stains: If the cashmere is stained, it’s worth pre-treating it. Always test any products in a hidden spot first to avoid accidentally damaging it. Use a stain brush to gently coax out stains before washing. Don’t dab aggressively; this will only make it worse. Instead, gently massage in a dab of stain remover. While sweaters, blankets and winter accessories can all be washed, if your cashmere garment is structured you should spot-treat stains and odors instead.
Wrinkles: Never iron cashmere as it will crush the natural piles of the yarns. Use a steamer instead. “The hot steam kills bacteria, removes shallow dirt, and helps the garment regain its natural form,” says Lewenhaupt. Finish off with a spritz of fabric spray and your cashmere is fresh and ready to go. For an added pro tip, Lewenhaupt adds: “Steam is a gentle way to freshen up cashmere without washing it, too.”
Pilling: By “pilling,” I mean those irritating little balls caused by friction that form on the surface of the fabric. “One common myth we often hear is that good quality cashmere doesn’t pill,” says Lewenhaupt. “But in fact, all cashmere will eventually pill when being worn, especially in areas such as under sleeves or where you have something rubbing against the fabric.” A simple fabric shaver or cashmere comb will help you de-fuzz as you go.
What’s The Best Way To Store Your Cashmere?
According to Bakker, steer clear of hanging. “When it comes to cashmere, folding is your friend,” she says. “We gently fold sweaters and store them in piles—color-coded, of course.” Another tip? Store your cashmere away for summer. “Bugs absolutely love cashmere so you need to extend the love and care to cashmere’s off-season,” says Bakker. “We recommend washing it, and then storing it in breathable cotton storage bags, which bugs can’t penetrate.” Avoid plastic covers, which can trap moisture and create bug-loving mildew.
Cashmere Care Toolkit
Here are all the essentials you need to maintain your favorite cashmere pieces at home.
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