A guide to Ghent, Belgium's rebellious, unsung city

In the 16th century, Ghent lost it all on the wrong bet. Built around rivers and canals, it was Europe’s second-largest urban centre, falling just behind Paris. When Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who ruled over Belgium, raised taxes to fund military action abroad, the city refused to pay out. They’d already given a fair share, locals argued, and surely Charles, who had been born in Ghent, wouldn’t turn on his home. In response, he marched into the city with his army, stripping it of its finery and parading its leaders in their undershirts, nooses around their necks.  

Today, you can find evidence of the city’s illustrious past in its historical centre, home to a UNESCO-listed belfry and the Gravensteen, a stone fortress said to have been inspired by Crusader castles. And while its heyday is now behind it, Ghentians proudly tell the story of their fall from grace as proof of their rebellious streak. 

This spirit survived, the sign of a place that’s at ease with its identity: socially conscious and full of fresh ideas. Initiatives like Nucleo are repurposing empty spaces into artists’ studios, and inviting the public to peer in once a year — in 2024, the open day is on 5 May. Meanwhile, chefs are experimenting with the earth’s pantry, casting Ghent as a European vegetarian capital. This energy is partly due to it being Flanders’ biggest university city: out of some 267,000 residents, over a quarter are students. This ensures a near endless supply of speciality-roast coffee in the Overpoort student district, and nightlife ranging from candle-lit wine bars to sweaty warehouses, reverberating with the kind of techno more often associated with Berlin. 

The city was named 2024 European Youth Capital by the European Youth Forum — and it’s no surprise. In April, it will celebrate the accolade as part of the biennial Ghent International Festival, which will feature opera as well as dancers on roller-skates. Events will continue throughout the year, with locals as young as 15 invited to contribute ideas. As for what they’ll come up with, all bets are off.

What to see and do

1. Historic quays
If you’ve seen photos of Ghent before, chances are they’re of the Graslei and Korenlei. Once the city’s centre of trade, these quays remain a hub of activity, lined with cafe terraces and moorings for boat tours. They’re the gateway to the historical centre, as well as the neighbourhoods of Patershol, a former working-class district turned culinary hotspot, and Prinsenhof, a residential area that was once home to royalty. 

2. The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb
This altarpiece by the Van Eyck brothers is the most stolen artwork of all time — it was even robbed by Napoleon, and over the years, it’s been forged and almost destroyed. It marked the transition from Middle Ages to Renaissance in Flemish art: admire its genre-defining details at St Bavo’s Cathedral, where a VR tour leads visitors through its history.

3. Street art
Ever since a historical centre passageway — now known as Graffiti Alley — was given over to street artists in the 1990s, murals have claimed Ghent like vines. Free to download, the ‘Sorry, Not Sorry’ map pinpoints some of the most famous. Pieces from homegrown talent include the rabbits by big-name ROA on Tempelhof and the foxes on Napoleon Destanbergstraat, which helped artist Kitsune make a name for herself. 

4. Dok Noord
In the city’s northern reaches, an old factory complex has been turned into Dok Noord, one of Ghent’s newest leisure and office developments. Its main draw is Hal 16, a food hall in a former brick warehouse. Try barbecued dishes or Italian specialities including mafaldine pasta with octopus ragu, then quench your thirst at Dok Brewing Company. There are 30 beers on tap, but Waar is Loca, a pale ale brewed on site, is a crowd favourite. 

5. Museum of Industry
Belgium was the first country in mainland Europe where the Industrial Revolution took hold. Housed inside a former cotton mill, this museum traces Ghent’s rise to textile powerhouse. The star of the collection is Belgium’s first spinning mule, a machine created to speed up yarn production: local Lieven Bauwens smuggled its components out of the UK, as export of such machinery had been banned.

6. Bike Ghent
Cristophe De Smet takes you beyond the city’s historical centre on two-wheeled tours of his hometown. Book a private ride to tailor the itinerary to your interests, whether you want to learn about beguinages (former religious communities for women) or Belgium’s first worker housing complex, named Zebra Street, which is now a venue for contemporary installations and even a pop-up swimming pool in the summer.

Where to eat in Ghent

1. Knol & Kool
The choice at this vegan cafe, a few steps from the belfry, ranges from vegetable lasagne with rocket pesto and almond parmesan to bánh mì overstuffed with tofu, pickled carrot and red cabbage. Check out the on-site vegan minimarket for hibiscus-flavoured beer, green leek miso paste and nut cheese made locally.

2. Lepelblad
This modern restaurant in tranquil Onderbergen, near the historical centre, works with local farmers and small producers to celebrate the season’s bounty. The menu might change depending on the day’s supply, but expect dishes like chicory tarte tatin with onion cream and mustard salad or marinated beef with salsify, soy and herbs. Each comes with a recommended wine and beer pairing. 

3. Oak
This one-Michelin-starred restaurant is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a refurbished look but has retained the minimalist, dark-toned decor that lets its menu shine. Brazilian chef Marcelo Ballardin’s multi-course menus lean into his international background with creations such as mackerel with Philippine calamansi lime or sea bass with tucupi sauce, extracted from wild manioc root in the Amazon rainforest.

Where to go shopping 

1. Home Linen
This boutique on the Korenlei has been crafting its own designs since the 19th century. A lavender scent permeates the space, which sells lace tablecloths decorated with red lobsters, retro night gowns and children’s dresses embroidered with rosebuds. It’s all reasonably priced, despite Belgian linen being renowned for its softness.

2. Antiques
Ghent has a seemingly endless assortment of vintage shops. Located opposite each other on central Baudelostraat, Antiek-Depot has overflowing shelves of curios, while Moca has ceilings hung with chairs and tambourines. For more precise perusing, Galerie St-John has a pedigree selection of cutlery, porcelains and Belgian paintings, all housed in a former baroque church.     

3. Sweets & condiments
While Belgium is known for waffles and chocolate, Ghentians will recommend different specialities. Cuberdons are nose-shaped hard candies filled with fruit syrup; get a packet at Patershol’s Confiserie Temmerman, which dates to 1904. Even older is Tierenteyn-Verlent in the historical centre, selling a locally famous mustard made using a secret recipe.  

After hours

1. ‘t Dreupelkot
It’s been over four decades since Paul Rysenaer opened this pint-sized pub a few steps from the Graslei, where barrels serve as high tables and wood cabinets display shot glasses. Head here to try jenever, a juniper-flavoured Belgian and Dutch spirit: there are some 200 varieties on the shelves, some distilled by Paul himself.

2. The Cobbler
Walk up a spiral staircase and into this low-lit cocktail bar within 1898 The Post hotel, one of the city’s trendiest addresses. It’s hard to say what’s better: the location on the Graslei, overlooking gothic St Nicholas’ Church, or its signature concoctions. Try the fruity pear sonata with vodka, Cointreau, cassis and pear, or the herbal downstairs harry, a mix of rum, cognac, vermouth, Chartreuse, maple syrup and sage.

3. Jazz clubs
A UNESCO Creative City of Music, Ghent has a special affinity with jazz. Every July, Gent Jazz takes over a former 13th-century hospital with performances by the likes of Gregory Porter and Norah Jones, but you’ll find sessions to jam out to all year. Hot Club Gent, an intimate bar, and Missy Sippy, a self-styled ‘modern juke joint’, are good places to start in the historical centre.   

Like a local

1. Portus Ganda
Ghent’s name comes from ganda, Celtic for ‘confluence’. The city was founded where the rivers Lys and Scheldt meet; when the Graslei and Koreneli get too busy, follow the canals to this very spot, now a tranquil marina. If visiting in warm months, detour to St Bavo’s Abbey, where hornbeam bushes mark the outline of a long-lost church. 

2. The Bakery
When pastry chef Joost Arijs set up a chocolate shop in SoGo — Ghent’s shopping district — in 2011, it was quickly named Belgium’s best by restaurant guide Gault & Millau. Opened down the road in 2023, his follow-up bakery was always going to draw in curious locals but, a year on, the morning queues show no sign of subsiding. Come early to have your pick of the crispiest croissants. 

3. Veggie Thursdays
In 2009, Ghent was the first city in the world to introduce a weekly meat-free day — an initiative that’s since been replicated from Taipei to Los Angeles. Take part yourself at Boon, an airy, Scandi-chic vegetarian lunch bar opposite the Gravensteen. The seasonal soups, salads and slices of quiche will have you coming back for more no matter what day of the week it is.

Where to stay in Ghent

1. Ganda Rooms and Suites
You’ll be hard-pressed to find better value for money than this B&B, set in an 18th-century townhouse in the historical centre. The eight rooms retain original mantelpieces and wooden beams, and the owners worked with artisans to furnish them with bespoke beds and Belgian art.

2. Pillows Grand Hotel Reylof
True to its former life as a baronial residence, this four-star hotel dazzles at first sight with a sweeping staircase in its marbled, neoclassical lobby. Set in a separate building, the 157 rooms are a more pared-back affair, but with common areas including a library and a bijou spa in what was a carriage house — plus the Graslei a stone’s throw away — there’s more than enough to keep you busy.

3. Hotel Verhaegen
Frescoes, a landscaped garden, a bath house with vaulted ceilings: there’s nothing subtle about this city palace, a short walk from the historical centre. It was reimagined as a four-room guesthouse by a pair of interior designers, who combined hand-picked antiques with 21st-century touches. Splurge on the Suite des Annees ’40 — though at some 750sq ft, the term ‘suite’ hardly does it justice. 

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