Yosemite National Park is iconic for a reason. From towering rock faces, to crashing waterfalls and the world's tallest trees, everywhere you turn there's something that will take your breath away.
But when is the best time to visit Yosemite? And what hotels and camping are available? Even more confusing - how do you actually get there? From accommodation options and travel advice, to the best tours and hikes in the park, here's what you need to know.
The best time to visit Yosemite
From tour guides, to park employees and local residents, there were two clear winners when it comes to the best time to visit Yosemite - spring or autumn. If you want to see the waterfalls, go for the spring (May is a good option, but avoid Memorial Day weekend). The snow higher up in the valley is melting, creating spectacular falls across Yosemite and the park isn't overwhelmed with day-trippers and tourists. In autumn (mid-late September is a good option, after Labor Day), most of the falls have dried up, but the beautiful colours make up for it and the temperatures aren't too cold. We opted for late May.
How to get to Yosemite National Park
It's no surprise that, being a stunningly beautiful National Park, Yosemite is in the middle of nowhere. The easiest option is arguably renting a car, but not only does that involve finding parking in or near the park (not always easy), it's not the best option for the environment.
We flew into San Francisco and from there, we grabbed a short (20-30 minute) taxi to Emeryville's Amtrak station. From there, we caught the San Joaquins Amtrak train to Merced (pronounced mer-said), which takes around 2hr 45mins and costs $25 / £19. There's a buffet cart, WiFi, power outlets and toilets on board.
From the Merced Amtrak station, you can catch the YARTS bus directly into the park. This took just under 2hr 30mins and cost $14 / £10, which includes your entry into the park. The bus is air conditioned, perfectly comfortable and has a toilet.
The best places to stay in Yosemite
If you're not renting a car, your best bet is staying somewhere on the YARTS bus route (ideally the Merced/Marisposa/140 route), whether that's inside the park or outside.
On the first night in the park, we stayed in Half Dome Village, formerly Curry Village, in an unheated tent cabin. It wasn't cheap at $160 / £120, but aside from camping it's one of the cheapest options. The 'cabin' is basically a metal frame with thick tarpaulin/tent-like walls and roof. The door padlocks from the outside and has a small latch on the inside.
The room includes a double bed with a mattress, pillows and some sheets, but we'd recommend still taking a sleeping bag for warmth even in spring. There's a light and some open shelving/wardrobe space, but no WiFi, power outlets and no water - all tent cabins have a shared shower block nearby. The campsite 'village' itself includes a bar, a supermarket, an outdoor supplies shop, a communal 'lounge' area with WiFi and power outlets, a burger place, a pizza place and a sit-down buffet restaurant.
There are numerous other campsites dotted around the park and for the remaining three nights we opted for Upper Pines Campground. It's a basic camping ground with no hook-ups and no showers, but there were clean flushable toilets, drinking water and every pitch has its own picnic table and fire pit. Needless to say it's the cheapest option at $26 / £20 per night. But you need your own tent and camping supplies... obvs. Unless you opt for a Yosemite Tour, that is.
Yosemite Tours
It is definitely possible to explore Yosemite on your own, but if you're hoping to explore some of the more challenging hikes and get up-and-close to the waterfalls, we'd thoroughly recommend getting a guide. We chose a Basecamp Tour with Wildland Trekking, which means you set up camp on the first day and then hike out each day with just a day pack.
We had two amazing guides - Kevin and Carm - who knew the park inside out. The trails can get confusing at times, but a guide knows all the routes back-to-front, they know the secret little diversions you can take for spectacular crowd-free views, they can help you pace yourself on the more challenging hikes and they can blow your mind with stories and facts you'd otherwise be clueless about. There's not a chance we'd have been able to navigate the walks we did without them!
If you're flying from the UK there's also the fact they provide all the kit for you. You can take your own stuff if you want, but they'll provide sleeping bags, liners, tents, Thermarests, camping pillows, trekking poles, day packs, camping chairs and everything in-between.
Wildland also provide breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks every day. And OMFG was the food good. All dietary requirements are catered for, but we enjoyed everything from steaks to thai green curry, and my personal highlight, a breakfast of French Toast with freshly cooked strawberries and whipped cream. Legit one of the best breakfasts I've ever eaten and Kevin, you should probably become a chef if the guide job ever gets tiring.
What to do in Yosemite
There are SO many spectacular things to see in Yosemite National Park, but it all depends on your fitness level and how long you're in the park for. We kicked things off on Day 1 by hiking to Vernal Falls and then up to Nevada Falls along the Mist Trail, before heading back down along the John Muir Trails via Clark Point. It's around 7 miles and gains and drops 2000ft or so, and make sure you take waterproofs, but the spray from the waterfalls and the view from the top is well worth it.
Day 2, we rested our legs (kinda) with a few short walks on the valley floor, including Bridalveil Falls and the base of El Capitan. We also drove to Tunnel View, which is an absolute MUST. Lastly, we hiked the 2-3 miles from Glacier Point to Sentinel Dome for stunning 360° views of the park.
Day 3 was the most challenging but rewarding hike, to the top of Yosemite Falls. It's essentially three straight hours of climbing rocky, uneven stairs, gaining just over 3000ft - roughly the height of over two Empire State Buildings. As long as you're reasonably fit and take breaks every 45mins or so, you might struggle, but you'll be fine! We'd suggest starting as early as possible (between sunrise and 8.30am), take at least 2 litres of water and plenty of snacks. The views at the top are phenomenal and after lunch, we made our way back down. It took us 8 miles and 7 hours (including our lunch break), but it was SO worth it. Make sure you take a short walk to the base of the falls after, to marvel at what you've just done!
With jelly legs, Day 4 was a little more chilled. We drove along the beautiful Tioga Pass Road and walked the 3 mile loop around the Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias, the world's biggest trees. That was all we had time for, but Tuolumne Meadows (pronounced too-ah-la-me), Hetch Hetchy and the High Sierras are all awesome additions if you can stay longer.
Where to stay outside Yosemite
We stayed at the newly refurbished Rush Creek Lodge. It's less than a 5 minute drive - half a mile - from the Park’s Highway 120 west entrance and is also a stop on the Sonora YARTS bus route, running directly into Yosemite Valley.
We cannot recommend this hotel enough. At prices from $236 / £176 per night it's not cheap, but compared to the hotels within the park, it's an absolute bargain and definitely feels like a 4-5 star set-up.
There's a swimming pool, a fire pit where you can grab free smores every night, a general store, a bar (complete with very delicious cocktails and snacks), a restaurant, a games room, reading lounge and a really helpful group of local guides who can help you plan what to do in the park. You should also try their signature massage - 80 minutes of absolute heaven after a long day of hiking.
Go to VisitTuolumne.com for more information.
San Francisco to Yosemite
San Francisco is the perfect place to book-end your trip to Yosemite. We flew with Virgin Atlantic on a direct flight. From SFO airport you can easily grab a SuperShuttle ($19 / £14) or taxi into town, which only takes around 20-30 minutes.
We spent the first two nights of our trip in the Financial District, staying at the beautifully renovated Galleria Park Hotel.
It's got a lovely art deco vibe, with ridiculously comfy beds and those all-important black-out blinds, because... jet lag. There's an on-site gym, free tea and coffee every morning, an outdoor garden terrace and an evening 'martini hour' where you can celebrate the birthplace of the classic cocktail.
Prices start at $250 / £185 per night.
The Galleria's local area doesn't look all that buzzy at first, but there's plenty of local gems. For breakfast we loved Mazarine Coffee's flat whites and delicious avo on toast combinations, and for lunch or dinner, Leo's Oyster Bar's shrimp rolls and cocktails. Plus, Chinatown, Crocker Galleria and Union Square are all just a short walk away and it's well positioned to grab a MUNI to the Bridge.
24 hours in San Francisco
Tight for time? Grab a MUNI bus or Presidio Shuttle up to the Golden Gate Bridge Visitor Centre, wander around the trails and drink in the view. If you've got time, head down to Crissy Fields and soak up the sun on the beach. The Palace of Fine Arts is a short walk away and is stunning. We'd also recommend a stroll around the Presidio park and lunch at Arguello. If you're a Disney fan you HAVE to visit the Walt Disney Family Museum - it's packed with original sketches and the fascinating history behind some of your favourite movies. You can do the museum in a couple of hours, but it would be easy to spend longer!
If you want to escape the tourist crowds and see the artier side of San Fran, the Mission District is a great place to explore. We grabbed a bus to Balmy Alley and walked past the colourful street art, then along 24th Street, stopping via Jenny Lemons, Adobe Books and the Lilac Mural Project.
Then take a right up Valencia Street. Some recommended stops here include Needles & Pens, Ritual Coffee Roasters, Gravel & Gold, The Beehive, the Pirate Supply Store, Paxton Gate Oddities and Dandelion Chocolate. If you've got time, veer off onto 18th Street and head towards Dolores Park via Tartine Bakery, or grab an ice cream at BiRite Creamery. This route will take around 30 minutes, not including any stops along the way!
We were pretty spent after all that, but if you're jet lag hasn't beaten you and you're up for drinks or dinner, we've heard good things about Trick Dog and ABV for cocktails, Southern Pacific Brewing for a beer hall hangout and El Techo for rooftop margaritas and good Mexican food. Central Kitchen, Foreign Cinema, Flour & Water, and Beretta are also nearby.
FYI
> The weather is really changeable. It is WINDY in San Francisco and even on a sunny day it can be freezing cold, especially by the Golden Gate Bridge. No matter how sunny it looks, take layers.
> The same goes for Yosemite National Park weather. When we went in late May, it could go from blistering 30°C sunshine one minute, to torrential rain and the need for a fleece and waterproof.
> Must-pack items for Yosemite include: good walking shoes (proper walking boots if you're hiking any of the bigger trails, comfy trainers with grip for smaller walks), good walking socks (ideally smartwool like Bridgedale), sunglasses and sun lotion (talk about high UV), lots of lightweight layers and a waterproof coat (see above temperature changes), plus a couple of decent water bottles or bladders that will hold around 2 litres (Nalgene, Camelbak, etc). If you're camping, a head torch is also a great idea.
> The mosquitos in Yosemite weren't too bad at all at the time of year we went and on the trails we did. BUT there were a few at the bottom of the Yosemite Falls trail and in the campsite at dusk, so pack some DEET or similar if you get bitten easily.
