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At 18, Thomas Pastuszak was torn between music and science. Postponing a firm decision, he double majored in classical piano and neurobiology at Cornell, thinking he’d figure out which path made sense by graduation. Medicine won out at first, but as he was seeking to fulfill the “life experience” part of his medical school applications, he “fell totally in love with the culture of creating restaurants and the culture of wine.” Winemaking had a special appeal to the double-major inclinations in Pastuszak; he loved the science and the art of it, both of which he learned in the vineyards around Ithaca. He put med school on hold.
I met Pastuszak upstairs at the NoMad, the Flatiron hotel and restaurant where he’s been wine director since 2011. He’d just returned from Los Angeles, where a new NoMad will open this weekend. As exciting as the cross-country expansion may be, Pastuszak’s heart is still set in his home state (he grew up in Queens). It’s particularly evident in his “Riesling project,” Empire Estate, which is made entirely in upstate New York. “There’s no other region in the U.S. that really focuses on Riesling the way that Napa has Cabernet or Chardonnay, the way that Oregon’s Willamette Valley has Pinot Noir,” Pastuszak explains. “The Finger Lakes is very quickly becoming that.” Importantly, Empire Estate is dry Riesling, which Pastuszak says checks all the boxes: “High acid, floral, aromatic, textured . . .”
Pastuszak sources grapes from several vineyards around the area, which has led him to explore the small towns that surround the lakes. He has a scientist’s understanding of the landscape. The Finger Lakes were carved out by the last ice age, he explains. “Some of them are short and shallow, only a few miles long. The largest are about 30, 35 miles long and three miles wide at their deepest point.” In between the lakes are higher plains or plateaus, some of which make for ideal winemaking terrain. “As far as the U.S. is concerned, it’s one of the few places where you have these really dramatic steep-pitched vineyard sites,” Pastuszak says.
But it’s not only about agrarian appeal: The Finger Lakes is home to charming inns, quality restaurants, and one of the highest waterfalls east of the Rockies. Here, Pastuszak details the best places to go on a long weekend upstate. (It’s a little bit of a choose your own adventure: You can start in Ithaca or Aurora, depending on how you arrive.)
Getting There
While getting to Montauk on a Friday might mean four to five hours in traffic, Pastuszak loves telling people the Finger Lakes is about a four- to five-hour drive—no stopping necessary. But if you must get a bite to eat, the Roscoe Diner is an iconic spot on Route 17.
By plane, you can fly to Ithaca, Syracuse, or Rochester. Syracuse and Rochester are most accessible, Pastuszak notes. From there, you can rent a car.
Day 1: Ithaca
If you come into Ithaca, Argos Inn is the place to stay. It’s a true boutique hotel, with only 13 rooms. “You really feel more like you’re at somebody’s home or manor,” Pastuszak says. “They have an incredible bar downstairs, too.”
After arriving Friday night, a Saturday morning calls for breakfast at Carriage House—“they have one of the better coffee programs in the area”—then a drive to Taughannock Falls State Park, where on warmer days, a swim and a trip to Cayuga Lake Creamery is key. Lunch should be at Stonecat Café, where a Southern-inspired menu is all locally and sustainably sourced.
For the day’s wine tasting, hit the Seneca Lake Wine Trail. Pastuszak recommends Sheldrake Point Winery and Red Newt Cellars—“one of the better Riesling producers in the area,” and an Empire Estate collaborator. Close the day with dinner at Dano’s, where Pastuszak had his wedding. Take in the view, because according to Pastuszak, the restaurant looks down on some of the oldest Riesling vineyards in the area.
Day 2: Aurora
Thirty-five minutes away from Ithaca, at the north tip of Cayuga Lake, is the small town of Aurora, where you should stay at the Inns of Aurora, a collection of manor houses that date back to the early 1800s. “It’s one of the most beautiful places to stay,” Pastuszak says. “Later, you’ll see that sunset goes down over the west side of the lake, so you get beautiful sun through the afternoon until the sunset.”
Have breakfast at the Aurora Inn, and go to Heart & Hands winery first thing. Then drive to the west side of Seneca Lake, to Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard. “We actually have a collaboration at NoMad where we make some sparkling wine with them,” Pastuszak adds. It’s called Back to Zero, and is only available at the vineyard and NoMad—make sure to snag a bottle.
After two tastings, it’s time for not another winery, but a wienery—specifically, FLX Wienery, where high-end hot dogs, including smoked ketchup and foie gras fries, are de rigueur.
The next wine tasting should be at Anthony Road or Red Tail Ridge. Or, if you’re craving a cocktail, go for an afternoon pick-me-up at Linden Social Club in Geneva. Then drive to Skaneateles (“it looks far, but it’s not that far”) for an indulgent dinner at The Krebs. Pastuszak says it has “one of the best wine lists in upstate New York that rivals many in New York City, with prices that are far better.”
The Drive Back
Driving south from Aurora to get back to New York City, stop in at Found, an antique store in Ithaca. “It’s basically a cooperative of 45 independent antique dealers,” Pastuszak explains. “They all have a different specialization, and they communally bought this amazing factory, gutted it, and it’s this beautiful industrial space.” They offer everything from mid-century-modern furniture to ’60s original-release denim. With a car full of new coffee tables, go to the Ithaca Farmers Market for coffee by local roaster Gimme, plus a breakfast sandwich. Get samosas to go.