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GREAT ESCAPE

Crete’s ancient sites and beautiful beaches make for the perfect holiday

The island of Crete is a must-see for your summer fun in the sun, you will be dazzled by its many ancient sites and variety of restaurants

IT takes just seven minutes to zip across the sparkling Aegean Sea from the pretty Cretan village of Plaka to the fortress island of Spinalonga.

And yet for the unfortunates who lived there in the early 20th century, that short journey to the rock citadel was their last moment of freedom.

 The Island of Spinalonga that was once a 20th century leper colony is now a popular tourist attraction
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The Island of Spinalonga that was once a 20th century leper colony is now a popular tourist attraction

From 1903 until 1953 the ancient fortification was a leper colony, where victims of the debilitating, disfiguring disease were banished to live out their lives away from civilisation.

It’s incredible to imagine as you stroll the crumbling streets past ruined buildings that at its peak, 400 souls lived in the colony — and died there too.

Shops, a school and church gave some semblance of normality.

But even now, more than half a century after the colony closed, there is a haunting atmosphere.

 The leper colony still holds a haunting atmosphere even in its beautiful surroundings
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The leper colony still holds a haunting atmosphere even in its beautiful surroundings

Back in Plaka we sat at one of the harbour-front restaurants and reflected while enjoying plates of fresh seafood.

The meze at the Taverna Paliria was typical of the food we enjoyed throughout our stay — an endless array of dishes, from dips of tangy beetroot and taramasalata to grilled sardines and octopus, delicate sea bass and punchy prawns.

While most of us enjoy the delights of Crete’s beach resorts, it is the island’s wild, rugged and lush interior that surprises and delights.

Just moments from the rocky shores are verdant landscapes — olive groves and vineyards tumble down hilly terrain, forests spread out across dramatic gorges.

 Wherever you stop off to eat you will have a variety of sea food and fresh vegetables to choose from
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Wherever you stop off to eat you will have a variety of sea food and fresh vegetables to choose from

Ancient villages offer a chance to see a very different side of Crete.

Clinging to the slopes of Mount Giouhtas, the history of picturesque little Archanes stretches back 5,000 years to the Minoan times.

We took a stroll through the town’s restored centre, past traditional Cretan homes and tiny churches before feasting at the Kritamon restaurant.

A favourite with the locals, the young chef Dimitris Mavrakis serves up traditional Cretan dishes with some surprising twists.

 Kritamon restaurant where you will be served traditional Creatan dishes by Chef Dimitris Mavrakis
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Kritamon restaurant where you will be served traditional Creatan dishes by Chef Dimitris Mavrakis

His passion is obvious with every course — the pasta and pastries are a must — and next day we find that same enthusiasm from winery owner Ioannis Stilianou.

You can tour his boutique, organic vineyard and winery in Kounavi before sampling the dry whites and reds in his ancient cellars, washed down with bread dipped in the vineyard’s own olive oil.

While Spinalonga gave us an insight into Crete’s recent history, not to be missed is a chance to delve into its ancient myths and legends at Knossos.

Spectacular remains from the greatest palace of the Minoan civilisation stand on a site that was inhabited from 7,000BC until Roman times.

 Olive oil one of the main cooking ingredients in Mediterranean dishes
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Olive oil one of the main cooking ingredients in Mediterranean dishes

 

As well as being the seat of King Minos it is connected to thrilling myths and legends, from the Minotaur and Labyrinth to the story of Icarus.

The site was discovered in 1878 and British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans excavated it between 1900 and 1931, bringing to light the palace, a large section of the Minoan city and a cemetery.

While it is possible to tour the site on your own, booking a guide will help bring the myths and legends alive among the rocky ruins.

Try to combine it with a tour of the Archaeological Museum in the nearby capital of Heraklion, where many of the artefacts are now housed.

 The remains of the Minoans civilisation in Knossos that was inhabited from 7,000BC until Roman times.
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The remains of the Minoans civilisation in Knossos that was inhabited from 7,000BC until Roman times.

While it is possible to tour the site on your own, booking a guide will help bring the myths and legends alive among the rocky ruins.

Try to combine it with a tour of the Archaeological Museum in the nearby capital of Heraklion, where many of the artefacts are now housed.

The capital is also a welcome break from beach-lounging, with a bustling centre full of gorgeous shops and some excellent Cretan restaurants.

We enjoyed mountains of marvellous meat at Peskesi and spectacular seafood at the En Plo restaurant.

 There is so much to see and do on the island of Crete that it is worth booking a tour guide
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There is so much to see and do on the island of Crete that it is worth booking a tour guide

While getting out and about is a must, there’s no doubt a decent base can make the holiday.

And I loved the relaxed luxury at the 5H Mirabello Beach & Village in Agios Nikolaos.

Set on its own Blue Flag beach, it combines unfussy modern accommodation with gorgeous gardens, a playground in the olive groves and even its own ancient stone chapel for weddings.

The Mirabello Beach has spacious rooms right on the sands with balconies overlooking the bay or gardens.

Go: Crete

GETTING/STAYING THERE:Beach holiday specialist On the Beach has one week half board at the 5H Mirabello Beach and Village,

Agios Nikolaos from £428 per person including return flights from London airports.

See onthebeach.co.uk or call 0871 474 3000.
MORE INFO: See visitgreece.gr.

Across a bridge is the newer Mirabello Village with cool, contemporary duplex suites and bungalows, many of which have direct access to pools.

The maisonettes are ideal for families, with two bedrooms over two floors with ensuite bathrooms, sitting area and balcony or terrace.

Bungalows are perfect for couples with a decent size bedroom and marble bathroom as well as access to a shared pool.

It is an all-inclusive hotel with a main buffet restaurant, a la carte open-air restaurant and grill on the beach for salads, seafood and barbecued meats.

 The Mirabello Beach Hotel has a relaxing pool area if you choose to take a break from site seeing
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The Mirabello Beach Hotel has a relaxing pool area if you choose to take a break from site seeing

Once a week there is also the opportunity to eat at the two speciality eateries, one Italian and the other Greek.

At night, there is plenty going on in the three bars — from live music in the main bar to a chance to relax and soak up the sunset in the Yacht Club.

Crete serves up the perfect recipe for the ideal Med holiday — fascinating history, beautiful beaches and authentic, delicious local food.

Boys and girls are loving their plane trip in The Secret Life of 4, 5 & 6 Year Olds on Holiday