Review: Marco’s wraps simple street fare pleasures between Mexican and American buns

One of the more unique eateries in Boulder County is Longmont’s Marco’s Hot Dogs and Tacos, a place whose menu is easily summed up by its name. Its appearance is also indicative of something you don’t see everyday: A colorful, but stripped down, stand storefront that resembles that of such legendary sausage sellers as Los Angeles’ Pink’s Hot Dogs.

Marco’s consists of two side-by-side open-air stands protected by an overhanging roof and a rear enclosed area. As to seating, there really isn’t much, although there are stand-up counters and some half-walls to sit. During a weeknight dinner, my dining companion and I improvised and sat on the concrete platform supporting the establishment’s street-side sign.

This is a cash-only spot. Service is quick and efficient, although if you want both hot dogs and tacos, you will have to make separate transactions for each. This quirk is more a feature than a bug, because you can stage your purchases so that everything comes out hot. In this spirit, my dinner companion and I started things off with tacos, and once we were done with those, we ordered hot dogs. It gave us a chance to pick up some additional beverages, which consisted of cans of Fanta.

Tacos here are simple street-style versions, served atop hot tortillas sautéed on a griddle. Pricing is a reasonable, $2.25 per taco, or $8.50 for four. Fillings are classic, and a tender, shredded-beef barbacoa was our consensus favorite, tender in texture and rich and complex in taste. My least favorite, although it was still acceptable, was the adovada pork, as it didn’t possess a fully rounded flavor. Carne asada made for a more than satisfying steak taco, with deep beefy savor and fine texture. Chicken was a lighter, but equally appetizing choice, with an admirably tender consistency.

Like any taco spot worth its salt, Marco’s possesses a comprehensive condiment bar. On some of my tacos, I opted for a traditional street-style presentation, simply garnished with onion, cilantro and a squeeze of lime. The pico de gallo was fresh and clean tasting without too much heat, but for those who want the fire, there are more potent options available, including a lively salsa verde. Refreshing diced cucumber is also on tap, and whole roasted green chiles delivered just the right amount of heat between bites of taco.

On the hot dog side of the house, frankfurters are available in three different varieties. The first is a $4 hot dog, the second is a $4.50 number wrapped in a tortilla, rather than a bun, and the third $5 variant actually isn’t a hot dog at all — it swaps out the sausage for shrimp.

What makes Marco’s hot dog offerings stand out is that these are not a typical New York or Chicago dog. Marco’s are Sonoran-style dogs, a unique preparation that originated in Northern Mexico in the 1980s, and became popular in the Southwest U.S., particularly Arizona.

At Marco’s, a worker takes orders while tending to a few dozen bacon-wrapped sausages sizzling on the griddle. Once the dogs are ready, the cook tops the sausage with a mix of pinto beans, onion, tomato, ketchup, mustard, mayo and shredded cheese.

There’s something surprisingly appealing about biting into the crisp and smoky bacon while experiencing the snap of the dog’s casing. Tender pintos contribute heft, and a touch of bean-based creaminess. Of course, one can also spice things up with condiments from the taco bar, which would be consistent with some Sonoran takes. More than one Sonora dog recipe calls for the addition of salsa, such as pico de gallo.

Two of these dogs would make for a weighty repast, and one on its own would probably be adequate for most. Hot dog connoisseurs would be well advised to check out Marco’s take. It’s both unique and tasty, and this outlet is one of the few spots in Boulder county dishing out this fusion of American and Mexican comfort fare.

Marco’s Hot Dogs and Tacos is a fun and unique spot that does a fine job in preparing its namesake fare at a more than reasonable price. Its brightly colored ambience makes for a slightly festive feel, and part of its unique appeal is that its appearance is more akin to something you would find in urban Southern California than in Boulder County.