Celebrating North Carolina roots in food

Paul Smith learned important food lessons early in life, in his grandmother’s kitchen in Southern Pines. Or as he helped shell beans or shuck corn.

“That was always my grandfather’s job,” he said. “We ate very garden to table They instilled that passion in me for good food.”

That’s probably why he switched from studying psychology to completing a culinary program in his hometown. When he moved to Wilmington more than 15 years ago, he had a few odd jobs at local restaurants before landing in the kitchen at Pine Valley Market. Since then, he’s been adding his own experience and Southern culinary traditions to the staff. Owner Christi Ferretti calls him the soup master, and he’s behind many of the well-loved warming connections at the market. Soup lovers know that during the winter months, they often have at least six different varieties on the menu.

“We build them from the bottom up,” Smith said. He uses handcrafted stocks and a thoughtful application of the many fresh ingredients they usually have on hand. For him, the soups represent the ways that the many aspects and people of Pine Valley Market come together.

“If you asked Christi what her favorite is, she’d say the Italian Wedding soup. That’s her background,” Smith said. “I love the navy bean and ham. It takes me back to my grandmother’s house.” Others prefer the lighter soups of summer, or hearty winter chowders. Turkey and rice is a customer favorite.

It’s one of the many aspects of work at Pine Valley Market that has kept Smith interested and challenged. He’s now head chef there, and cooks for the restaurant, butchers meat, and stocks the cases with prepared foods so customers can have a quick meal. He also works with clients and helps plan catering menus, which could include hundreds of people for a wedding, or maybe six dinner guests for an upscale, multi-course meal.

“A place like this has a lot to teach,” Smith said. “And there’s a lot of freedom to try your ideas. We have people here from California, New York.” They can all add their own flavor.

Clients love the many local seafood recipes, including seasonal shrimp-and-grits. The autumn version has butternut squash, peas and tasso ham. During the holidays, Pine Valley Market offers complete meals, including standing rib roasts for Christmas.

“We have the sides, everything,” he said. The are also stocked for last-minute entertaining. Their popular savory cheesecakes, including a version with mango chutney and cheddar, can be taken out of the freezer prior to the party. “Add some crackers, and it’s ready,” he said.

Smith was one of many local chefs who donated their time and talents in the aftermath of Hurricane Florence. He and Ferretti spent the days after the storm at the local base of operations for World Central Kitchen and spent long days preparing thousands of meals for those in need.

“Before that, I didn’t even know it existed,” Smith said of the disaster relief organization founded by famed chef José Andrés. “It was incredible watching so many people come together to help.”

Soon, Pine Valley Market became a satellite kitchen for WCK and then continued to help by raising money and making freezer meals, like turkey tetrazzini and shepherd’s pie, to restock freezers for local families.

Smith’s earlier years at the Market were spent mostly behind this scenes, in the kitchen, he said. But his role as head chef means he’s often at the cash register at the restaurant, or working with clients directly.

“I’m interacting more with people, and learning a lot about that aspect,” he said, while relying on operations manager B.J. Laverdiere and the dozen or so staff members at Pine Valley Market.

“One of the things I can say is that we all take a lot of pride in what we do here,” he said.

Paul Smith usually uses homemade stock and soaks dried beans for the versions of this soup that can be found at Pine Valley Market. But he created this pared-down recipe for easy at-home cooking.

Ingredients:

1/4 pound thick-cut smoked bacon

2 carrots, diced small

1 onion, diced small

2 ribs celery, diced small

8 ounces smoked ham, cubed

3 15.5-ounce cans Great Northern beans

3 cloves garlic, minced

6 cups chicken stock

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Salt and pepper, to taste

Instructions:

Finely dice the bacon and render the fat out in a stock pot over medium heat. Add the diced carrot, onion, celery and ham and cook until vegetables are tender.

Strain and rinse the beans. Add the beans and minced garlic to the pot.

Add the stock and cook for 20 minutes.

In a separate small pot, melt butter over low heat. Add flour and whisk until smooth. Cook the flour and butter five minutes. Add to soup and season to taste.

Makes four servings.

Recipe courtesy Pine Valley Market.

Paul Smith

Age: 38

Hometown: Southern Pines

Favorite kitchen tool: “A really good knife.” He prefers the all-purpose 6-inch Shun.

Best food-related book: “Kitchen Confidential,” by Anthony Bourdain. “I’ve read it at least three times.”

Favorite beverage: A good bourbon, or sweet tea

Volunteer hours for World Central Kitchen: 70 hours (not including those after Pine Valley Market became a satellite kitchen for WCK)