1805: Lewis and Clark enter the Lower Columbia River in what is now the state of Oregon to explore land west of the Mississippi River for westward expansion of the United States.
2018: My friends and I cross the Lewis and Clark Bridge over the Lower Columbia River to explore Oregon’s North Coast Craft Beer Trail, the latest example of Americans’ entrepreneurial spirit and love of good food and drink.
I have long been a fan of the red wines of Oregon, especially the Pinot Noirs. The last time I visited the leafy green state, a number of years ago, I enjoyed numerous tastings of the tannin-rich grape juice.
But this year, it was the Craft Beer Trail in Oregon’s North Coast that drew me to the state. And I found a new love, which made me feel like a cheating spouse. I didn’t go wine tasting even once.
How could I even think of wine when every stop along the North Coast Craft Beer Trail presented dozens of flavorful, lemony, hoppy, sour, refreshing drinks to taste? A different IPA, ale, gose, kolsch, cider and even root beer to enjoy at every bar? It was hard to resist any of them.
Temptation starts just off the tarmac
The titillation began as soon as I landed at Portland Airport. Naturally, plenty of draft brews are offered in the airport and enjoyed by travelers coming and going. But I stayed away from even trying a sip there. I wanted to save myself for the expansive beer tasting trail ahead.
My friends who live on the Long Beach Peninsula in western Washington state picked me up from the airport and we drove north west on U.S. route 30 for 97 miles, about 2 hours, to arrive at Astoria, the epicenter of the Oregon North Coast Craft Beer Trail.
The trail is also known as the Beer 101 Trail, as it meanders along the 101 highway and includes the coastal communities of Astoria/Warrenton, Seaside and Cannon Beach. The trail was launched in 2012, an idea hatched by community leaders of the three cities, inspired by the Bend Ale Trail in eastern Oregon. “I’d go to Bend every summer since the ‘80s, and I watched the Bend beer culture grow,” says Dan Bartlett, former city manager of Astoria. Meanwhile, brew pubs sprouted all over Oregon, including the coastal regions, inspiring beer festivals and other summer events that showcased local brews.
But the increasing number of local, artisan brews offered along the picturesque coast soon warranted more than one summer event, especially to promote the variety of non-mainstream brews. “We used to say Astoria was a fishing town with a drinking problem,” says Bartlett. “We’re now a great little drinking town with a fishing problem.”
So the permanent Beer 101 Trail was born, with Bartlett as “cheerleader,” supported by leaders of the Seaside, Cannon Beach and Astoria chambers of commerce, and owners of local breweries Fort George Public House, Astoria Brewing Company and the Wine and Beer Haus store and tasting room in Seaside.
Follow the Trail and get your ‘passport’ punched
To thoroughly experience and enjoy the tour, first stop at one of the three participating chambers of commerce or visitor centers: Astoria/Warrenton Area Chamber, Seaside Visitors Bureau, or Cannon Beach Chamber of Commerce, to pick up a “Passport” card that lists all of the participating breweries, restaurants or shops. You may also get a Passport card at the breweries.
Visit at least 10 of the 12 locations, and at each stop, get your card validated with a punch or stamp to prove you were there.
When you have visited 10 or more locations, present your validated “passport” card at one of the Chambers of Commerce or Visitors Bureau and you will get a souvenir prize. For more information, go to www.oregoncoastbeer.com/locations
Variety is the spice of life
No one goes thirsty on the Craft Beer Trail. Some of the breweries and restaurants along the route even offer kid-friendly root beer, pure sparkling apple juice with no concentrate, and Orange Cream Sodas (Astoria Brewing Co.).
Some of my favorites along the route:
Pelican Brewing Company, Cannon Beach
The Beak Bender IPA with its zesty orange & citrus flavors, and the smooth Kiwanda Cream Ale with a floral hop aroma and a sweet malt flavor. It also has the best whimsical sampler tray.
Public Coast Brewing, Cannon Beach
Imperial IPA, a Double IPA (8.9% ABV) that’s pungent but balanced with lemony citrus flavors. Also, the burgers are excellent here, a good place to stop for lunch in sunny, friendly Cannon Beach.
Rogue Ales Public House, Astoria
Dead Guy Ale, a smooth German Maibock style brew, and Hot Tub Lager with a refreshing tea after taste. Also, the location Inside the old Bumble Bee Tuna Cannery offers a mini-museum about canned fish.
The oldest microbrewery in Astoria today offers a variety of beverages to taste and enjoy, from pilsners and blondes to IPA, Porters, Stout and even rosé. The Pineapple Crawler was refreshing, not cloyingly sweet, and the Ichiban IPA was tasty, made me wish I could have some sushi with it.
Hondo’s Brew Pub and Tap Room, Astoria
A small shop and tasting room with a homespun vibe. No fancy or modern furnishings, but a very knowledgeable, interesting brew master who likes to experiment and create a variety of brews, from ciders and gose to ales and lagers, and mix them up, too. Enjoyed a full glass of Tart Cherry Gose for just $5!
So much great beer to enjoy here, but the location is most noteworthy, another former fish cannery turned hot spot for food and drink. If you’re lucky, you can get a seat on the wooden deck and gaze over the water while sipping super IPAs and being serenaded by rowdy sea lions underneath you.
Seaside Brewing Company, Seaside
A long list of great brews, including Sneaker Wave IPA, with fruity notes from Mosaic Hops, served up in a brick building that was the Seaside City Jail and City Hall, circa 1914. The jail’s black iron bars are still in place, reminding you to proceed carefully on the tastings.
The Wine and Beer Haus, Seaside
Don’t let the location in an outlet mall stop you from entering this treasure trove of a store. Owners Jeff and Karma have what locals say is the largest beer and wine selection on the north coast, and the couple is knowledgeable and friendly about not only beer and wine, but the local community. The KBS Stout we tried was smooth and espresso strong in color and taste, while the Fort George Brewery’s Breaking the Mulled strong ale offered an addictive cinnamon spice.
