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Since quickly rebounding from its recession in 2008, Dublin has shed its old-school party-town reputation to become an innovation-centric authority. From a thriving digital sector (housing the European headquarters of many U.S. tech companies, from Facebook to Google and Airbnb) to its acclaimed fashion designers, chefs, artists, and craftsmen, the city has never been quite so cool. Indeed, in the wake of its neighbor’s dramatic Brexit, the Irish capital has emerged as an increasingly diverse and appealing hub. But lest you think this winning streak has gone to their heads, we found that the city’s residents seem to have remained characteristically unpretentious and low-key. Here, 15 of Dublin’s most dynamic (not to mention well dressed) women reveal their ultimate Irish index.
Morgan MacIntyre and Gemma Doherty, musicians, both 25
Hailing from Northern Ireland, this beguiling duo met at Trinity College, forming their band Saint Sister upon graduation and quickly garnering national acclaim. Their music, which they dub “atmosfolk,” blends enchanted vocal harmonies with Doherty’s harp and McIntyre’s synth. When not touring, they call Dublin home.
Their spot: “The National Botanic Gardens (pictured) are just so peaceful,” says Doherty. “The colors are magical and I’m always reminded of the spectacular beauty and complexity of nature. It’s important to check in with those powerful forces every once in a while.”
Café select: “We love going to Simon’s Place in George’s Street Arcade,” says MacIntyre. “There’s no Wi-Fi, so it’s a good space to talk things out over cups of honeyed tea and cinnamon buns.”
Live music: “Whelan’s is where we played some of our earliest shows so it’s a special one for us,” says Doherty. “The National Concert Hall also has a great mix of classical and contemporary music.”
Top hats: “We’re in love with the work of Irish milliner Laura Kinsella. Her designs are minimalist yet mystical,” Doherty says.
Night out: “My favorite local spot is Kimchi Hothouse for the bibimbap,” says MacIntyre. “For a really special occasion, the tapas at Port House are incredible. Either way, a perfect night out for me ends with a few quiet pints in The Hacienda.”
Culture fix: “If you’re in Dublin on a Tuesday night, don’t miss The Ruby Sessions,” Doherty says. “In aid of Dublin Simon Community, the lineup is a mix of up-and-coming Irish artists and more often than not, unannounced special guests.”
Day trip: “We’ve recorded all of our music in a studio in the hills in county Kerry. It’s such a beautiful part of the world to go and completely switch off.”
Danielle Ryan, founder and CEO of Roads.co, director of The LIR, 34
Born into the Ryanair aviation family, this worldly thespian turned businesswoman has combined her passion for exploration and arts into Roads, her unique omni-media company. It encompasses Irish film production, publishing (Hotels to the Stars is the latest book) and Roads niche fragrances. She also spearheaded The LIR, Ireland’s newest dramatic academy. Ryan grew up between Sri Lanka, Nigeria, Ireland, and England. After a recent stint in Los Angeles, she recently returned to Dublin.
Her spot: “The food at Etto (pictured) is exceptional. I’m not a fan of over-the-top formality. This place has such a reputation in Dublin as being number one. I like that it’s so intimate.”
Expert advice: “I love travel, it’s in my blood and so I recently created The Considered Guides. We did one on Dublin recently. My father was a pilot and always instilled this idea of traveling in a particular way. Sometimes it’s worth being brave and exploring a bit.”
Café society: “The 3FE is also a little coffee institution. Also Brother Hubbard. They do coffee well in Dublin.”
Local pub: “I like the traditional music at O’Donoghues. I always order a little Guinness. It’s kind of a thing.”
Great outdoors: “The green spaces here are incredible. Check out Phoenix Park, which is the biggest in Europe. There are deer and a whole zoo, yet it’s only five minutes out of the city.”
Shop talk: “There are a lot of good independent designers with small ateliers here that I love to support. For clothes, I like Helen Cody and for hats I recommend Margaret O’Connor Millinery.”
Travel tip: “I find packing a nightmare so I ended up creating a uniform: a skirt, top, and trenchcoat in the same satin fabric. I have had it made in a few colors. It makes life easy and I don’t waste time figuring out outfits. I have mine done by my tailor Waraire Boswell in Los Angeles.”
Chief Irish characteristic: “My love of Irish playwrights and my obsessive tea-drinking.”
Laura O’Grady, model, 23
After being selected to work with Hedi Slimane early on during his tenure at Saint Laurent in the preparation prior to his shows and on the runway, this top Irish model’s career was born. Though she now splits her time between New York and Dublin, O’Grady still immerses herself in the local fashion and arts scene.
Her spot: Hugh Lane Gallery (pictured). “One of the nicest things about Ireland is that we have such a rich history in literature and art. Francis Bacon’s studio is really beautiful. There is a nice mix of international artists as well. I worked here when I was younger and saw the restoration of paintings.”
Her style: “The experience at Saint Laurent definitely influenced my style. What I always liked about Hedi’s approach is that he was such a nonconformist. I was only 19 when I started working with him and had come out of 14 years of convent school. It definitely taught me to play around and made me into leather, which he was so famous for.”
Youthquake: “When you have that contrast of a really conservative country and a really progressive young generation, it bursts out. Young people are not afraid to experiment with their clothes, the indie music scene is thriving, and there are a lot of amazing art schools. It’s always been a creative place, but people are much more comfortable trying new things now.”
Homegrown fashion: “Simone Rocha is absolutely incredible. And J.W. Anderson we’re all very proud of and regard as the best.”
Shoptalk: “I love Brown Thomas. It’s a unique department store. It doesn’t feel sterile or overly commercial. They champion new, young talent in Ireland.”
Café select: “Clement & Pekoe has an amazing selection of loose-leaf teas, served properly in pots. I love their peppermint and matcha.”
Restaurant pick: “777 is our best Mexican place. Crackbird has the most delicious chicken in the world. For more of a treat, try La Maison.”
Must-try: “Butlers whiskey chocolate. I stockpile it for my friends abroad. I’ve got them all hooked.”
Loah, singer-songwriter, actor, 31
With Hozier and Zadie Smith fans of her music, which she describes as “art soul,” Loah (born Sallay Matu Garnett) is one of the city’s most beautifully eclectic acts, in sound and style. Born in Kenya and raised between Ireland, Gambia, and Sierra Leone, she returned to Dublin for pharmaceutical college before realizing she belonged on the stage, not behind the counter. “Being both Irish and West African, I have a broad range of experiences—having one particular sound would not satisfy the breadth of what I feel to be my identity,” she says. Listen to her debut EP This Heart or catch one of her tour dates for further proof.
Her spot: “I often walk on Sandymount beach (pictured). I love how far the tide goes out and the expansive view even though you’re in the city. I go there alone to clear my head.”
Her style: “I like dressing up. I was a chemist and I really appreciate clean lines that’s say, ‘Hello, I’m the boss.’ I also love luxurious things—such as this Issey Miyake suit or big dramatic sequin dresses.”
Chief Irish characteristic: “My sense of humor and the melancholy that only finds relief in a song. It always amazes me how bizarrely musical we are. It’s an incredible place to grow and be nurtured as an artist.”
Café select: “The Fumbally is in a warehouse-like space with shared tables. One regularly spots other musicians and artists sifting through emails over a coffee. The menu is inventive and their ingredients are local—some herbs even grow on their roof.”
Music city: “Some of my favorite gigs have been at The Sugar Club. The George Bernard Shaw pub has great DJs and live music. Their Big Blue Bus pizza is to die for.”
Well lit: “The Lilliput Press on Arbour Hill. They mostly publish Irish interest books and writers. It’s well worth a visit and you can get a lovely hot drink and sandwich in the Lilliput Café down the road.”
Shoptalk: “I enjoy going into Music Maker and ogling the acoustic guitars. For fashion, Folkster is my source for both casual and gig outfits. I wear a lot of head wraps and turbans by designer Thais Muniz, a Brazilian Dubliner who makes bespoke pieces.”
Ros Duke, knitwear designer, 40
It’s always sweater weather in Ireland, inspiring the work of this local knitwear standout. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Duke worked alongside Irish designer John Rocha for 10 years before launching her own self-named label of cozy yet contemporary cashmere in 2015.
Her spot: “The George’s Street Arcade (pictured) is special for me because I grew up slightly outside the city and used to bunk off school to come here to play pool. Also, the nearby South William Street used to be full of clothing manufacturing, which really intrigued me.”
Restaurant pick: “Market Bar is very cool. It used to be an old factory. They do very good patatas bravas and other Spanish tapas.”
Local pub: “Hogan’s is lovely. Grogan’s is a real old man’s pub. Everyone goes there because you don’t know who you’re going to be sitting next to—a Hollywood actor or someone who has drunk there for 60 years. It’s not always about decor. It’s about the interactions and conversations.”
Home stretch: “I am a yogi. Samahdi and Yoga Dublin are the best.”
Shoptalk: “Pop in Parfumarija—a beautiful perfume shop in the Westbury Mall.”
Hidden gem: “National Museum of Ireland has a permanent exhibition of incredible Irish gold from the Bronze Age. It’s very inspirational for me and not that many people know about it.”
Knitting lessons: “We just have a really strong connection with craft, the land and an instinctive desire to make things from scratch here,” says Duke, whose own collection is made right in Dublin. “I work with domestic knitting machines as opposed to industrial, which means I can really play with the surface textures, which isn’t common in cashmere. I reference all those classic Aran knits and moss cables, but in a soft, subtle way that is wearable and timeless.”
Dublin dressing: “It’s all about layering and warmth for that damp cold over here in the winter. I like to match my sweater and scarf, keeping it all tonal. My tip is to wrap your scarf once and tuck in it in on the side, letting it drape across the shoulders.”
Roisin Haines, press coordinator at Brown Thomas, 27
As one of Dublin’s more daring dressers, this public relations guru has access to the top tier of fashion at Ireland’s toniest department store: the Weston family-owned Brown Thomas. From her own wardrobe to her work, Haines champions homegrown fashion talent.
Her spot: “The courtyard in IMMA. The museum is housed in the Royal hospital Kilmainham, the style of which is based on Les Invalides in Paris. It also has one of the most beautiful gardens that looks over the city. Check out the ongoing Lucian Freud project while there.”
Irish indulgence: “The panna cotta at Coppinger Row. It’s also a great place to people-watch.”
Restaurant pick: “Paulie’s Pizza is cozy and they serve the best comfort food. I always get the truffle spaghetti and the Ben pizza to share.”
Café select: “Green & Bean in Brown Thomas Dublin do the best palm heart salad and selection of healthy breakfasts.”
Designer to watch: “I really love what Richard Malone is doing. I want to wear everything from his Spring ’18 collection.”
Dublin advantage: “Dublin is the only place that’s both small enough to never have to make plans, but know you’ll always run into someone you know and have the best time, yet also cosmopolitan enough to have everything you need or want.”
Ciara Flood, buying and retail director of Makers & Brothers, cofounder of &Open, 33
After an extended stint in London as a fashion buyer at Net-a-Porter and Selfridges, Flood returned home to Dublin in 2015 to help her husband and brother-in-law’s fledging online craft company, Makers & Brothers, which has become Ireland’s most artful home design and craft e-emporium. Earlier this year, she launched &Open, a platform focused on bringing good taste and a clever touch to corporate gifting. Her first client? Airbnb.
Her spot: “Our showroom. Customers can pop in here to browse product they’ve seen online or click and collect orders purchased. Our office space for &Open is in the back so I spend a lot of time here with our growing team. It’s healthy to keep a physical connection with your customer even if you are predominantly an online store.”
Restaurant picks: “The Fish Shop. They have a fantastic wine list and a very small but perfect menu. I always go for the mussels and a glass of Sancerre.”
Café select: “I love Fia, a new café that’s close to our studio and showroom. I order the Gubbeen cheese toastie and a strong coffee.”
Irish indulgence: “A glass of Champagne at the cocktail bar in the Delahunt.”
Hidden gem: “Walking through the grounds of Trinity College Dublin from the main door, through the cobbled entrance onto the rugby and cricket pitches is really romantic, filled with youth and hope of all the generations who have passed through it.”
Vintage crawl: “Francis Street is full of lovely antique stores with some really great prices.”
Design discovery: “Superfolk, a design duo we represent. They borrow brilliantly from their surrounding landscape for lino prints which look great in every home.”
Day trip: “Wicklow, about one hour from Dublin. I love to stay at Hunter’s. It’s a little traditional and not too perfect but very friendly and warmly Irish.”
Anna Cosgrave, founder of REPEAL Project and assistant to Independent senator Lynn Ruane, 27
A social activist and outspoken change agent, Cosgrave’s work focuses on normalizing and encouraging conversations around abortion in Ireland. Through sales of her wildly popular clothing, plus arts initiatives and live events, she has become a leading voice in the national pro-choice dialogue, directing supporters to grass routes organizations such as The Abortion Rights Campaign and The Coalition to Repeal the Eight. “Conversations about abortion were online, hidden, and too often not central to the public conversation,” says Cosgrave on what sparked the movement. “There was a need to move them onto the streets and to make women who are forced to travel abroad to access abortion services feel supported.”
Her spot: “The National Print Museum is steeped in history as printers help revolutionize the way the words of activists, artists, and writers articulated themselves in the public sphere. They have an array of traveling exhibitions and a beautiful café.”
Chief Irish trait: “Resilience.”
Café select: “Our Table, a pop-up café run by migrant women, cofounded by an activist and a hero of mine, Ellie Kisyombe, to highlight direct provision in Ireland by using food and cooking. It epitomizes the concept of community for me.”
Irish indulgence: “Hot whiskeys in the winter at Fallon’s Bar.”
Hidden gems: “The Chester Beatty Library and Gardens, Marsh’s Library, and the front snug of Hughes Pub for traditional music.”
Well lit: “Books Upstairs is a local gem. It has literary events and an antiquarian style.”
Don’t leave Dublin without: “Experiencing live Irish poetry, spoken word, or music. Check out This Is Pop Baby and Anu Productions.”
Ciana March, cofounder of Concrete Collar, 28
A local fashion arbiter, March’s approach to style keenly melds her background in architecture with a taste for shape-shifting ready-to-wear from Ireland’s top designers. She highlights it all on Concrete Collar, a creative direction and social media firm and she cofounded with friend Becky Wallace.
Her spot: Grand Canal Dock (pictured). “I live nearby and enjoy the the variety of architecture. The canal basin itself is home to a community of houseboats. You’ll find buildings by Daniel Libeskind, Frank Gehry, and Aires Mateus.”
Café select: Meet Me in the Morning. “I always get the eggs and greens. The whole place feels really familiar—as though you’re calling over to a friend’s house.”
Restaurant picks: FIA. “It’s local food done well, established by a group of young Irish food visionaries. Assassination Custard is a dining experience like no other in Dublin. It’s only two tables and all the food is cooked fresh to order.”
Shoptalk: “Havana is a retail haven located in an unassuming corner of Dublin. The store’s owner Nikki Creedon has an incredible eye for emerging talent and is a great supporter of Irish designers working both locally and internationally. I have a pair of black satin Perspex Simone Rocha heels from there.”
Hidden gem: “Stable is Dublin’s only luxury scarf retailer. Their eye for textiles and quality fabric is unrivaled. Their oversize scarves are on my Christmas wish list.”
Home wares: “I love Arran Street East for beautiful hand-thrown pottery.”
Local label: Tissue. “All their ready-to-wear is made here in distinctly Irish fabrics such as Donegal tweed.”
Well lit: “Ulysees Rare Books has lots of collectable editions in a truly picturesque shop.”
Laragh McCann, model and filmmaker, 27
After making a name for herself on the runways at Miu Miu and Chanel, McCann has turned to a new milieu: cinema. The budding filmmaker screened her directorial debut, Day, at the Oscar-qualifying 2017 Galway Film Fleadh and recently shot a campaign video in support of repealing Ireland’s Eighth Amendment.
Her spot: “The Stella cinema (pictured) has recently been refurbished. It feels like a proper time warp back to the ’20s. It has an amazing theater and cocktail bar—ideal for a romantic date over a whiskey and a flick.”
Scenic route: “The swimming spots and walks around the beaches at Dalkey and Killiney Hill where I grew up are beautiful with amazing views. I love to start the day there, followed by a nice meal in De Ville’s in Dalkey village, or a pint in Finnegan’s in Dalkey village.”
Culture fix: “Victors Way, the Indian Sculpture Park in Wicklow is awesome. It has a lot of mad pieces.”
Like a local: “Moore Street is great if you want some some inner-city culture, where you can buy lots of fruit, fish, and meat from the markets.”
Fashion fix: “There are lots of great charity shops on Capel Street in Dublin City centre. Also Petria Lenehan does simple Irish pieces in the softest tweed and linen. It’s great quality and the ethos behind it is really good.”
Eco-friendly: “There is a new website here called NU—a female-led sustainable fashion start-up I’m working with, focused on clothes sharing.”
Restaurant pick: “Devilles is a really delicious bistro to try.”
Pearl Reddington, knitwear designer, 23
This National College of Art and Design graduate is determined to subvert Irish knitwear tropes with her made-to-order, neon-spiked pieces that swing distinctly more Dublin urbane than Cork countryside. “We have such a strong heritage of knitwear. Often we can fall back on the clichés,” Reddington says. “I’m just trying to make Irish knitwear cool, bring it out of the past, and make it more fashion.”
Her spot: “I love walking around the Powerscourt Centre (pictured), an old Georgian home from the 1700s which was converted into a boutique-style shopping centre in more recent years. It has some of the best Irish designer boutiques, such as Atrium, which carries my knitwear.”
Shoptalk: “One of my very favorite Dublin boutiques is Scout, which stocks a lot of great Irish contemporary craftspeople.”
Her style: “Casual and oversize. I love Birkenstock and Crocs. I like to wear all black a lot of the time and then just have a little bit of my signature neon. I like to interrupt my neutral palettes of natural wools with this little surprise.”
Café select: “Kaph is simply the best. Try the oat milk latte.”
Veggie option: “Pickle is a wonderful Indian restaurant. They have these potato cakes that almost bring a tear to your eye they are so good. Cornucopia is great too.”
Local pub: “Grogan’s for pints. I often hang around the South William Street area. My friends work in every second restaurant and pub there so it’s always lively.”
Kathryn Davey, textile designer and natural dyer, 41
Consider her Dublin’s indigo girl. Indeed, with the whole of Ireland undergoing a natural food and sustainability movement, Davey’s work and teachings in plant dying are particularly timely. After learning her craft while living in Northern California, she returned home in 2014. Her textiles and home goods, which take their pastoral hues from madder plants to avocado, are available online. She also leads dying workshops in Ireland and abroad.
Her spot: Library Bar (pictured). “I love the history in this part of the city. My boyfriend introduced me to the Library Bar, which is an institution. I’m drawn to the cozy warmth of the place and how quiet it is.”
Restaurant picks: “The food and service at Forest Avenue are exceptional. Their tasting menu will surprise and delight. Delahunt is located in a Victorian building with a beautiful moody interior. I recommend the slow roast beef.”
Lunch spots: “147 Deli has the best chicken club sandwich in Dublin (and possibly the world). Wall & Keogh has a great selection of loose teas. Also, Blás Café has high ceilings and a lovely open feel. Their vegetarian lunch is tasty.”
Irish indulgence: “Shrimp scampi from Super Miss Sue.”
Shoptalk: “Scout is my favorite store in Dublin. The owner Wendy Crawford is a such a lovely person with great taste for Irish design.”
Dublin must-try: “I would say take a jump in the sea, guaranteed to blow the cobwebs away. Then leave the city and head up to the hills surrounding Dublin. That’s where the magic of the land can be felt. Anywhere near Lough Dan, Lough Tay, Cruagh Wood, or Tribadden Wood. Not only is it stunningly beautiful, you also get some amazing views of the city from up there.”
Courtney Smith, stylist and creative director, 30
From television spots to styling editorials and taking on frequent brand collaborations, Smith is one of Ireland’s most visible (and tireless) fashion plates. With a studio nestled in the heart of the lively Temple Bar neighborhood, Dublin’s original fashion district, she oversees her equally buzzy business.
Her spot: “The Temple Bar area is a hub of creativity in Dublin, with many young designers and artists giving it a community feel. At the weekends there is an incredible food market in the Meeting House square for local farmers and Cows Lane market where independent designers sell their pieces. My fashion studio is also on one of the cobblestoned streets. Next door there is my go-to cafe, Indigo & Cloth (pictured).”
Restaurant picks: “Klaw is an amazing seafood shack. I always order the crab mac ’n’ cheese and they do an oyster happy hour. I think the seafood in Ireland is the best. I also love Trocadero for a steak and glass of red wine. It’s quite old-school with decor from the ’50s.”
Lunch spot: “Industry, an incredible interiors concept store with a small café inside which does the most amazing daily salads with salmon. It’s all healthy, homemade, and the bonus bit is you can shop for your house while you are at it.”
Irish indulgence: “A cheeseburger from Bunsen Burgers, which has only three things on the menu—burger, cheeseburger, or fries.”
Hidden gem: “My absolute favorite vintage store: Jean Cronin.”
Day trip: “Howth Harbour—a beautiful fishing village just on the outskirts of Dublin. It has a famous fish and chip shop, as well as incredible hikes and walks with breathtaking views and amazing seafood restaurants. You can also feed the local seals that swim into the harbor.”
Irish designers to watch: “Emma Manley for her beautiful and quirky leathers, Danielle Romeril for her manipulation of fabrics and romantic details, Natalie B Coleman for her quirky designs, and Jill De Burca for her embellished creations.”
Sibéal Davitt, dance artist, 28
This mesmerizing movement auteur and choreographer combines classic and current dance forms with live music for her increasingly high-profile performance commissions. Davitt also teaches sean nós, an improvisational form of traditional Irish dance. In early 2018, she debuts her new work “Hear This Dance” as at Smock Alley Theatre.
Her spot: “Newmarket Square. There’s an amazing market the last Sunday of every month where you’ll find gorgeous vintage clothes, jewelry, furniture, and food. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend my Sundays.”
Chief Irish trait: “I’m a native Irish speaker.”
Night out: “For dinner, I love Tippenyaki. The chefs put on an amazing show and the waiters also sing for you at the end, they have amazing voices. It’s really good craic. I order the king prawn or tuna steak Tippenyaki. Next it’s a pint in Slattery’s across the road.”
Café select: “Nick’s Coffee is a great spot. You can sit outside on a sunny day and soak up the atmosphere. I get a flat white.”
Hidden gem: “Go to The Cobblestone for the best traditional music and a great pint. It’s a truly authentic experience.”
Dance break: “DanceHouse has a lot of free informal showings as well as classes. CoisCéim Dance Theatre is also fantastic for classes.”
Irish designer: “Helen Steele. I wore one of her dresses to a film premiere recently and loved it.”