Democracy Dies in Darkness

Once war-torn, Slovenia has become a green retreat

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November 27, 2019 at 8:00 a.m. EST
After making our way up dozens of switchbacks through Slovenia’s Vrsic Pass, this was the view on the way down into the Soca Valley. (Mary Nicklin/For The Washington Post)

“Look out, Dad!”

We were listening intently to the audio version of Ernest Hemingway’s “A Farewell to Arms,” and the rental car almost swerved off the road when Frederic Henry got hit by a trench mortar shell. I tried to reconcile the scenery outside the car window with what Hemingway describes in his classic novel, published 90 years ago. The “picturesque front,” his narrator called this area of present-day Slovenia where intense fighting occurred between the Italians and Austro-Hungarian forces during the First World War.