Fall has arrived and with it, a nip in the air and a rustling of crisp leaves. Families are retreating indoors, lured by the prospect of warm, comforting dishes celebrating autumn’s bounty. Just in time, a new crop of highly-anticipated cookbooks is here to provide the culinary inspiration we need for all those apples, root vegetables and hearty greens. Among them: a new Cal Peternell collection, Tiffani Thiessen’s family-friendly debut and Food52’s latest volume of iconic desserts. Here’s the must-read lineup.
Almonds, Anchovies and Pancetta: A Vegetarian Cookbook, Kind of
The book: Reading chef Cal Peternell’s cookbooks is like having a conversation with the Chez Panisse alum and Cooking By Ear podcaster. He’s a wickedly funny, Mediterranean food expert and father of two, who tells great stories about former President Obama (a fellow almond man) and his own culinary travels throughout Italy.
In “Almonds, Anchovies, and Pancetta” (William Morrow, 180 pages, $26), Peternell explains how people have been eating the way he does — mostly veggies, seasoned with a little fish, meat or nuts for depth and flavor — forever.
And in this little square of a book, with adorably whimsical sketches by Peternell, his wife and sons, the chef celebrates three of his favorite ingredients, showing you his methods on properly pounding garlic and anchovies or toasting almonds (they should be tan inside) to make everything from Almond Granita to Fried Anchovy and Sage Standwichettes (not a typo).
Great for: Chez Panisse fans who are trying to eat more vegetables and want a bunch of tasty, delightfully simple pancetta- or anchovy-kissed recipes all in one place.
The dish: Carrot and Almond Soup with Saffron and Coriander, which gets its kick from Marash, a red pepper powder, although Aleppo works too.
A Burger to Believe In
The book: Oakland’s cult-favorite KronnerBurger may be closed, but chef-owner Chris Kronner, who is still offering epic, bone-marrow topped burgers at Henry’s in Berkeley, shares his passion and philosophy on the best meat (aged dairy beef) and burger fixings in this colorful debut, including tips for die-hard fans who want to attempt those pain de mie buns and sensational sides at home.
In “A Burger to Believe In” (Ten Speed Press, $30, 239 pages) you’ll learn everything from dry-aging beef to grinding and forming the best patty. The more than 50 recipes include the original rare Kronnerburger, the Bar Tartine Burger (yes, really), Best Way Fries (because they’re made with Kennebec potatoes) and that famous Cheddar Mayonnaise. A medley of inspired dips and seasonal salads round out this nostalgic collection.
Great for: KronnerBurger fans and grill masters seeking the perfect hamburger, onion rings and other accoutrements.
The dish: The Patty Melt, made with onions grilled in beef tallow (unsalted butter works, too). We recommend toasting or even grilling the bread really well. Don’t forget the stretchy pants.
Genius Desserts: 100 Recipes That Will Change the Way You Bake
The book: Consider this the indispensable baking guide, filled with all the clever hacks (bread crumbs make the best non-stick prep for your pan) you’ve been searching for. “Genius Desserts” (Ten Speed Press, 273 pages, $35) draws from the James Beard Award-nominated column, Genius Recipes, by Food52’s Kristen Miglore and features iconic desserts by some of the best bakers of our time.
Even better, the sections are organized the way home cooks think, from Lazy Cakes (East 62nd Street’s Lemon Cake Show) to Show Cakes (Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin’s Hazelnut-Brown Butter Cake with Sauteed Pears) to Rogue Cakes (Claudia Fleming’s Guinness Stout Ginger Cake). Add in Nancy Silverton’s famous Butterscotch Budino and Dorie Greenspan’s brilliant, three-ingredient Almond Crackle Cookies, and you’ve got the dessert resource for every occasion.
Great for: Anyone who loves baking or is looking for the chocolate mousse recipe, the best way to save time making a citrus cake or Nigella Lawson’s secret for one-step, no-churn coffee ice cream.
The dish: Parsnip Cake with Blood Orange Buttercream, similar to carrot cake, but with a spicy kick from a pound of shredded parsnips.
Rich Table: A Cookbook for Making Beautiful Meals at Home
The book: Husband and wife team Evan and Sarah Rich of San Francisco’s hotter-than-hot Rich Table penned this comprehensive, 85-recipe debut together. The Rich Table cookbook (Chronicle Books, 288 pages, $35) brings upscale NorCal dishes from the restaurant (hello, Porcini Doughnuts and Sardine Chips) together with the food the Riches cook for friends at home.
Sarah grew up in the south, he’s a Jersey boy and each recipe opens with an adorable story about their courtship, family and more. The Riches love summer produce (what chef doesn’t?) so you’ll see many dishes using watermelon, corn, tomatoes, snap peas and stone fruits, and some high-brow stuff we won’t attempt (foraging for tree needles on Mount Tam to make Douglas fir tree powder). But in between, there are manageable dishes, including a fabulous Spaghetti with Peas, Lime, Goat Cheese and Duck Fat and a Grilled Pork Chop with Smoked Quince and Brussels Sprouts.
Great for: Fans of the restaurant and singular Northern California ingredients, or anyone who wants a creative challenge in the kitchen.
The dish: Sweet Potato Pancakes with Dried Apricot Salsa Verde and Sprouted Broccoli, a Rich Table riff on the dish Evan’s mom made the first time she met and cooked for Sarah’s family. Aww.
Pull up a Chair: Recipes From My Family to Yours
The book: On Cooking Channel’s “Dinner at Tiffani’s,” actress and avid home cook Tiffani Thiessen hosts fabulous, themed dinner parties — fancy pizza night, girls’ night in — for her friends and former co-stars. The show’s a hit because Thiessen’s parties aren’t out of reach for viewers like us, and in her cookbook debut, “Pull Up a Chair” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $30, 336 pages), she brings all the elements together in one place.
You’ll find 125 recipes, including game-night favorites like Brady’s Favorite Short Rib and Curried Deviled Eggs to classics-with-a-twist, like Lobster BLT Lettuce Wraps and bright, creamy Beet Risotto. Add in the clever Mom hacks — hello, Avocado Brownies — and checklists on creating the perfect party vibe for each theme and you’ll find Thiessen’s simple cookbook a resource for years to come.
Great for: Busy home cooks looking for easy-to-follow, crowd-pleasing everyday recipes.
The dish: Cauliflower “Chorizo” Tacos with Cuban-Style Black Beans. The spiced, roasted cauliflower gets its color and flavor from sweet paprika, cumin and coconut oil.
Season: A Year of Wine Country Food, Farming, Family & Friends
The book: Why can’t everyone write cookbooks like the folks at Jackson Family Wines do? This gorgeous volume (Cameron + Company, 302 pages, $50) is cleverly organized by season, making it easy to use for meal planning.
Each chapter opens with a list of what culinary gardener Tucker Taylor is growing, and leads into what co-authors and winery chefs Justin Wangler and Tracey Shepos Cenami do with that bounty, be it a fall favorite like Pumpkin Grits with Roasted Maitake Mushrooms, or an autumn harvest feast featuring Duck Rillettes with Roasted Wine Grapes. Along with wine-pairing suggestions and stunning photographs, this hefty hardcover doubles as a great coffee table centerpiece.
Great for: Fans of the Jackson Family label, which includes 23 wineries between Napa and Sonoma, as well as anyone who wants to throw a fabulous seasonal wine-country soiree.
The dish: Grilled Frisée, Squash & Figs with Savory Granola & Bacon Vinaigrette.