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Five walks on the North Coast 500


By John Davidson

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The North Coast 500 takes you into some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world. John Davidson suggests some walks that give a feel for the area

The bridge over the Black Water at Rogie Falls.
The bridge over the Black Water at Rogie Falls.

Rogie Falls

A new suspension bridge crosses the Black Water as it tumbles its way down over rocks from high up on the slopes of the surrounding mountains. Two short waymarked routes lead from the parking area to the viewpoint over the falls, which can be particularly dramatic after heavy rain or when snow is melting off the hills.

The Salmon Trail is a gentler stroll to the falls, while the Riverside Trail winds its way through the woods to the riverbank before following the water’s edge back to the falls.

Between July and October, Rogie Falls is one of the best spots to watch salmon leaping up the waterfalls as they return to their spawning grounds to mate. In low water, they can even use the manmade fish ladder.

If you want to explore further, you can cross the bridge and link up with a series of forest tracks and trails at Contin.

The path to Coire Mhic Fhearchair between Liathach and Beinn Eighe in Torridon. Picture: John Davidson
The path to Coire Mhic Fhearchair between Liathach and Beinn Eighe in Torridon. Picture: John Davidson

Torridon

Every visitor to Glen Torridon is awestruck by these sandstone giants which rise thousands of feet from the roadside to their rocky ridges.

Beinn Eighe, Liathach and Beinn Alligin are the three classic mountains here, each home to two Munros (Scottish mountains over 3000ft above sea level), though there are many others to discover in the area.

Experienced hill walkers, scramblers and climbers may tackle the main summits, while others can get a closer look by exploring into Coire Mhic Fhearchair at the northern edge of Beinn Eighe.

From this dramatic vantage point, you can see the mountain’s Triple Buttress, and even find remains of a Lancaster bomber which hit the rocks here in 1951, killing all eight crew members.

The beautiful Sandwood Bay is worth a visit. Picture: John Davidson
The beautiful Sandwood Bay is worth a visit. Picture: John Davidson

Sandwood Bay

Tales of mermaids and ghosts surround Sandwood Bay but nothing stops people from visiting this enchanting spot. Its long, golden beach is one of the finest in the Highlands and it can only be reached on foot.

The 4.5-mile route from the car park to the beach follows a track from Old Shore Beg near Kinlochbervie, passing a series of lochs before joining a well-maintained path which drops down to reach the sand.

Most people return by the same route, while the pathless continuation to the north – which requires excellent navigation skills – is the conclusion of the Cape Wrath Trail, which ends at mainland Britain’s most north-westerly point.

Be warned, though – from the lighthouse it’s 11 miles and a ferry crossing to the nearest road!

One of the Duncansby Stacks.
One of the Duncansby Stacks.

Duncansby Stacks

The far north-east is too often overlooked but its beauty lies in spectacular coastal scenery. A walk from the end of the road at John O’Groats to Duncansby Stacks, passing the lighthouse at Duncansby Head, gives a glimpse of what to expect along this dramatic coastline.

Three giant sea stacks rise out of the water, pointing to the sky. It’s possible, with care, to scramble from a gate down to the shore and get a great view of the stacks from below.

The easiest way is to return along the coast or follow the single-track road back from the lighthouse.

This is not the only place worth seeing along the Caithness coast, however. Take time, in particular, to visit Whaligoe Steps, an inlet – or geo – where herring was once brought to shore and carried by the fisherwives up the cliffs on a staggering series of steps before walking it to market in Wick, some eight miles hence.

Stac Pollaidh has a dramatic outline but is an accessible walk. Picture: John Davidson
Stac Pollaidh has a dramatic outline but is an accessible walk. Picture: John Davidson

Stac Pollaidh

The craggy outline of Stac Pollaidh’s summit ridge seems at odds with its mere 612m height. While access to the true summit is for experienced climbers and scramblers only, a wonderful path circumnavigates the hill, reaching the ridgeline and providing excellent views of the unique Coigach landscape.

Nearby hills come into view as you climb higher, including Cul Beag and Cul Mor, Ben More Coigach, Suilven and Canisp.

It’s around 2.5 miles to complete the circuit, though it involves a fairly stiff climb – but it’s nothing that even reasonably fit children shouldn’t be able to manage!

The small car park can get pretty busy in the summer, so be sure not to block passing places on the road if there’s no space.

This is a great introduction to easy hill walking and an exciting but achievable climb which is highly recommended.

  • John Davidson’s guide to Walking & Cycling in the Highlands is available in a number of bookshops across the Highlands, as well as at www.johndavidsonoutdoors.com

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