High Hopes as Napa Harvest Gathers Pace

Napa's 2017 vintage is looking good, and even drought worries and labor shortages couldn't dampen the optimism of growers.

After four years of drought, a wet winter has made growers smile, and vines flourish.

"We had stable groundwater resources even during the drought, but the high amounts of rainfall this winter ensured that groundwater resources were recharged and aquifers refilled. That's good for Napa," said Garrett Buckland, partner at Premiere Viticultural Services and president of Napa Valley Grapegrowers.

That optimism continued at bud break mid-March, when growers got their first glimpse of the 2017 growing season. Bud break was consistent and light rains through the end of April kept the risk of frost away. Once the days grew longer and warmer weather arrived in May, vines burst into life. Shoots reached for the sun, the first indication that canopy management would play an important role in developing the highest quality fruit this year. With ample water and sunny days, vineyard canopies swelled and growers worked long days through June and July managing vine canopies for optimal grape development.

Buckland said: "We expect exceptional quality due to timely vineyard work and weather. Early heat events resulted in vigorous vine growth, where keeping up with canopy management was key. In the early stages of berry ripening, when it matters most, we experienced fantastic weather with no major heat spikes."

Harvest started early, with Napa sparkling wine houses, who pick at lower brix levels, bringing in fruit during the first week of August. Some varieties, like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are starting to come in. In the weeks ahead, Napa Valley grapegrowers will start harvesting their precious Cabernet Sauvignon, along with the other red varieties.

Meanwhile, at wineries up and down Napa, vintners are gearing up to receive their grapes. Throughout the summer, cellar crews have been bottling recent vintages to make room for the 2017 wine.

Cleaning and sanitizing are also a priority in the winery this time of year. At some of the region's more than 60 Napa Green Winery facilities, water and energy-saving practices include sanitizing barrels with steam rather than washing them with water; replacing standard tank and equipment cleaning products with biodegradable ones; and using on-site water treatment systems that capture and recycle rinse water.

"Harvest only comes around once a year," said Michael Honig, president of Honig Vineyard & Winery, and 2017 chair of the Napa Valley Vintners board. "We have just one shot with each vintage to make the best possible wines. Winemaking can be resource-intensive, so it's also a great time to employ sustainable practices that help protect and preserve Napa Valley for generations to come."

Elsewhere, labor issues are causing some headaches in Paso Robles. Grower Stephanie Terrizzi told the Western Farm Press that the shortage of labor was the top concern in the region as harvest approaches.

"I've noticed a lot of shiny, new harvesting machines in barns this year," she said. "So growers, who don't expect to have the workers they'll need, are spending the money to make sure their grapes get picked."

However, she also pointed out that many Paso Robles vineyards – including some of her own – lack the space between vine rows and suitable topography to accommodate harvesting machines.

She expected to have enough workers for the harvest, which should start later this month with the first white varieties, while the earliest reds could be ready to pick the first week of September.

"The contractors here have a number of temporary crews which they can share with each other, as needed," she said. "And we're trying to be flexible with our schedule to get all the workers on the days we need them. Smaller vineyards, which require smaller harvest crews, will probably be more affected by the labor shortage than larger operations."

Meanwhile, parts of Europe are experiencing one of the earliest vintages on record. Inter Rhône reported that picking started on August 21 in the south of the region, the earliest start for several decades. Picking is expected to start in the north around September 4, two weeks earlier than usual.

Inter Rhône's statement said the vintage was likely to be another high-quality one, and "yields will not be excessive".

Farther south, some growers in Italy have been scratching their heads over a vintage that has been unlike any other., with a series of extreme weather events, including a warm winter, late frosts and a brutal summer heatwave. Italian wine specialist Jeremy Parzen reported on his Do Bianchi blog that one grower had picked his Cabernet 40 days earlier than usual, at full phenolic ripeness.