Roulette Clothing: A menswear indie playing the odds

Roulette Clothing is a premium menswear independent spanning three floors, in the popular shopping destination of St Helier in Jersey.

It was opened by owner David Cullen in 2006 and stocks brands such as Stone Island, Nudie Jeans and DSquared2.

In December 2018 Cullen launched his own sustainable minimalist sneaker brand, Unseen Footwear. The project was born of frustration at not being able to get the footwear brands he wanted into his store – some would not distribute – while as a consumer, Cullen watched the prices of some labels soaring.

He says he manages to run both projects with "great difficulty" but a good team at Roulette Clothing allows him to juggle his time. When in the buying season, he spends half of his time talking to brands as a buyer, and the other selling Unseen Footwear.

The shoes are designed in collaboration with specialist footwear studio Concept Kicks and are manufactured in the Civitanova region of Italy, where all components including the soles, fabrics, laces and packaging, are sourced within 15 miles from the finishing factory.

Unseen Footwear has a direct-to-consumer website and is stocked in luxury department stores Liberty and Selfridges, online etailers including Atterley and Cullen's own Roulette Clothing.

Wholesale prices for Unseen Footwear range from £78 for the Helier suede style to £98 for Trinity leather sneaker.

What’s the first thing you do when you get up in the morning? 

The alarm on my Sonos wakes me up, and I go downstairs and have a Nespresso. Then I check my emails, messages and Instagram.

What was your first job? 

At the age of 12 I worked in an independent sports shop selling Sergio Tacchini, Kappa, Ellesse, Lotto and Diadora.

How would you describe the brand in one sentence? 

Unseen Footwear is designed in London and made in Italy for those that recognise that real style in understated, not bold and brash.

What’s your coffee (or tea) order? 

Macchiato

How has Covid-19 impacted the running of your business?

It has pushed us back a season in production and delayed the samples for the next selling season.

What do you think the fashion industry can learn from Covid-19?

That less is more.

Where are your favourite places to shop? 

Roulette Clothing is my extended wardrobe. But I do love shopping in London: Dover Street Market for inspiration, Selfridges, and my favourite well-curated menswear collection is at Liberty. Independent store End Clothing [which sells online and has stores in London, Glasgow and Newcastle] also has some one of the UK's best offers.

What was your last fashion purchase?

New Balance 990 in grey. The advertisement campaign for this shoe is my all-time favourite: "Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio."

Emails or phone calls?

Phone call but not a WhatsApp call.

Most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?

Be genuine and honest. You can smell bullshit from a mile away.

What’s your favourite part of the creative process?

Sampling new styles. There's not a better feeling when you finally get the shape of the sneaker exactly the way you visualised it.

What has been your proudest moment since you launched?

Seeing the brand in Liberty and Selfridges. Our first production for Unseen Footwear launched in December 2018. We launched our wholesale campaign in Paris in June 2019, and this was when we met with the buyers of Liberty and Selfridges. We delivered our second collection into our retail partners in November 2019.

What’s the last book you read? 

Mr Pikes: The story behind the Ibiza legend.

Who in the fashion/retail industry inspires you? 

Massimo Osti [founder of Stone Island], Ronnie Fieg [New York-based footwear and streetwear designer and owner of group of independent stores Kith] and Kim Jones [artistic director of Louis Vuitton].

What, apart from Covid-19, is the biggest challenge facing fashion today?

I want to see brands delivering product when the consumer needs it. The seasons have got out of hand and this has been created in the past by the department stores selling seasons ahead. Major international brands would deliver spring stock in November and autumn stock in July and it makes no sense. Hopefully Covid has bought more sense to the industry and deliver products closer to the season. I think we need to go back to basics now, and sell coats when it's cold and shorts when it's warm.

One piece of advice would you give your younger self? 

Slow down.

Who do you turn to when you need advice? 

My mum, John Vullo and Mark McDonald. Mark is currently head director at Seven Store [Liverpool-based menswear independent]. We previously worked together at [independent menswear store] Cruise in Glasgow, and remained good friends over the years. John Vullo currently works for [leather product protection specialist] Liquiproof, and worked for [Danish menswear brand] Junk de Luxe , which was the first brand I had bought for Roulette Clothing. He seems to know everyone in the industry.

What are you looking forward to most in the year ahead?

Seeing the team in Italy [when Covid restrictions allow] and developing new product.