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A conversation with wine maker Lamberto Frescobaldi

Al Vuona

One of the nicest people in the wine business is Lamberto Frescobaldi, the president of Marchese de Frescobaldi wines of Italy. He was here on business recently and was gracious enough to spend some time with me. Lamberto, who by the way speaks perfect English, oversees the family winery, Marchesi de Frescobaldi, which is one of Italy's oldest.

With a warm easygoing manner and extensive knowledge, Frescobldi is a man who believes that wine is more than just an alcoholic beverage made from fermented grape juice. In his words, “wine is a lifestyle and part of our cultural being.”

As a young boy growing up he felt no undue pressure to join the family business. In fact, he was encouraged to pursue whatever vocation he wanted. For Frescobldi though the vineyards were always his first love. “Since I was 13 years old I knew agriculture and winemaking were my passion,” he said.

That was enough to convince his parents to send him to America, where he attended the University of California at Davis and in 1987 earned a degree in viticulture. Since then he has traveled the world as Frescobaldi’s wine ambassador.

Throughout our conversation he often spoke about his willingness to employ and mentor young wine makers who, as he says, “inspire me with new ideas and novel approaches to winemaking. Learning is an ongoing process whereby all of us can benefit from the ideas of others.”

That mindset has led to the production of some excellent wines, including the 2012 Pomino Bianco Benefizio Reserva, which sells for about $30. This Chardonnay-based wine offers ripe fruit flavors and hints of ginger along with clean, crisp acidity. The wine pairs nicely with soups, baked salmon and antipasto.

Red offerings include the 2013 Toscana Rèmole, a nice blend of cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. This medium-bodied wine glides over the palate with cherry, strawberry and anise flavors. Try a bottle with grilled meats and red sauce dishes. Suggested retail price is $12.

Or how about the 2012 Frescobaldi, Nipozzano Chianti Ruffina, Reserva? At $24 the wine features dark cherry and wild berry flavors along with hints of lilac and chocolate. I love pairing this wine with baked ziti topped with fresh basil.

Frescobldi admits to having a weakness for the 2011 Mormoreto. A blended wine dominated by cabernet, it features roasted hazelnut and dark chocolate flavors. This special occasion wine is ideal with roasted meats, strong cheeses and pasta primavera; it sells for about $79.

As for the future, the Frescobaldis are investing in new vineyard sites along the south coast of Tuscany, where small production wines will be produced. As Frescobldi explained, “it’s all about creating wines with distinctive flavor profiles. We are always looking for something new, something that is pleasing to the palate.”

I wasn’t going to argue with that.

Wine of the Week: Chateau Rollan de By: 2012, France. From the Bordeaux region, this merlot-based wine offers rich mocha, licorice and dark fruit aromas. Flavors of blackberry and plum along with a velvety finish are quite pronounced. Pairs nicely with braised lamb and brown rice. $22.