The celebrated French writer Frédéric Mistral once wrote: “When the good Lord begins to doubt the world, he remembers that he created Provence.” A lofty claim, and yet impossible to argue if you’ve ever been to this fêted region of France.
If quiet luxury is the mot du jour, Provence is surely its homeland. A space of unobtrusive prettiness and sleepy charm, it has a glamour that has retained a unique brand of untouchable chic through many decades of global tourism. The diversity of this pre-alpine and coastal region means that there is something to suit all tastes, be that undulating landscapes and deep gorges, quaint villages embraced by fields of lavender, or glitzy beaches seasoned with rosé on Provence’s fashionable, maritime edge, the Côte d’Azur.
Wherever you go, there will be the same relaxed Southern French attitude, the same sandy-stoned houses and chirruping cicadas, the delights of Provençal cuisine and the endless dilemma: pastis or rosé? (You’re in Provence: both of course!) Whatever your preference, there is a Provence for you. So, here is our luxury guide to navigating it all.
For a bucolic escape… stay at Crillon le Brave
It is situated in arguably the prettiest part of the region: the Luberon – a massif in central Provence, part of the French Pre-alps. This translates into stunning hillsides, rippling landscapes, verdant valleys and, scattered among these, some of the most picturesque villages in the country, from Gordes to Bonnieux.
Crillon le Brave sits atop one of these, the village from which it takes its name. It is actually comprised of old private homes from the village itself, meaning it retains the feeling of living within a gentrified hamlet, of stone steps, cobbled pathways and secret gardens, where your local eatery is a gourmet restaurant and breakfast is served on a terrace where the patchwork quilt of the Luberon is laid out below you.
Though this breath-taking view is undeniably a huge part of the charm here, tear your eyes away from the olive groves and vineyards below and you will be handsomely rewarded. Each room has its own individual identity with antique furniture, and some with double roll-top baths overlooking the valley below. The restaurants are excellent and the spa and pool are small but perfect for a boutique hotel that prides itself on putting the quiet in quiet luxury. Indeed, besides the clinking of glasses, the chirruping of the crickets and the clicking of pétanque balls, there is nothing to disturb you in this Provençal oasis.
For ‘the most beautiful village in France’… visit Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
When the light hits Moustiers Sainte Marie just so – built as it is, on the side of a limestone cliff – it diffuses the buildings with a soft pink glow. This is just one of the many reasons Moustiers is regarded as France’s most beautiful village. Situated near the western entrance of the Verdon Gorges (definitely worth a visit of you fancy one of the most picturesque kayaking trips of your life), it has a haphazard layout, with winding streets, spiral steps and staggering views.
This is a village full of mystery and magic. A church sat at the highest point (reachable via an arduous but rewarding walk) has a golden star strung up high across the rooftops, supposedly placed there, so the myth tells, by a medieval knight fresh from the crusades. The village is famous for pottery and it feels as though there is a shop on every corner selling beautifully made pieces – you will be spoilt for choice.
When eating in Moustiers, Bastide Moustiers is the place to go. Alain Ducasse bought the property from a master potter in 1994, and transformed it into a 4-star boutique hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant. The food is predictably sublime but it is the character of this lovingly restored 18th-century residence and its perfect view of the Verdon national park below which are truly beguiling. . .
For historical gastronomy… dine at L’Oustau de Baumanière
One of the most lauded restaurants in Provence, L’Ousteau de Baumanière received its first Michelin star in 1949 and had accrued its third by 1954. This is a place brimming with history and gastronomic legacy in one of the most curious parts of Provence – Baux – nestled on a rocky outcrop, near a ruined castle, in the Alpilles mountains. The town itself is a diverting visit, with layers of its ancient and mediaeval past still visible in its impressive citadel. Baumenière sits at the foot of Baux, serving jaw-dropping food surrounded by vineyards and olive trees.
For the ultimate village experience… stay at Le Moulin
Secreted away in the heart of the village of Lourmarin, Le Moulin is the best way to lose yourself in Provençal village life, while still receiving a luxury hotel experience. This boutique charmer has only 35 rooms, scattered in a charmingly sporadic way across the quirky architecture of the building’s original incarnation, as an 18th -century mill. The rooms are perfectly designed, with nods to Provence throughout – from Marcel Pagnol books on the bedstead to savon de Marseille in the bathroom.
The restaurant is brilliant, with breakfast served in the pretty garden terrace, and the bar (which also doubles up as the hotel reception) is a delight, with doors opening up to the road beside the local château on one side and the main thoroughfare of Lourmarin on the other. You never shake the feeling of being in the middle of a lively village and this is the USP of Le Moulin: Lourmarin itself – which is bursting with art galleries, shops, cafés and restaurants, and has a distinct character all of its own. Sit and enjoy a pastis on Le Moulin’s terrace bar in the evening, as live music plays and the locals gather. You won’t be disappointed.
For a scented pilgrimage… head to Grasse
Considered the world capital of perfume, Grasse, just north of Cannes, is a must-visit for any scent aficionados. The town produces over two-thirds of France’s natural scents, with vast flower farms and training facilities for the world’s best ‘noses’. It is where Chanel no 5 gathers its iconic aromas, and where brands including Dior, Hermés and Louis Vuitton source their ingredients. There is plenty to occupy fans here, with the International Perfume Museum and guided tours of the three main perfumeries: Fragonard, Galimard and Molinard. In all, you can also visit the studio to partake in a ‘make your own perfume’ workshop, or simply stroll through the charming old town of Grasse and shop the endless (gorgeously scented) items, from soaps to candles. If you time your visit at the beginning of August you can catch ‘Le Fête du Jasmin’, where decorated floats drive through town and jasmine water is sprayed on the crowds by the local fire brigade. In May, there is a similar celebration of roses: ‘Expo Rose’.
For coastal glamour… stay at Les Roches Rouges
When heading to the coast of Provence, it is tempting to go for the heavy hitters: Saint Tropez or Cannes. Yet the Mediterranean tip of this region is littered with unsung heroes. One of these is Saint Raphaël, with its bustling roads and gorgeous harbour. On the edge of Saint Raphaël is the area’s premier hotel: Les Roches Rouges.
Initially a budget motel in the 1950s, which bore the same name, it has been transformed into a glamorous hot spot, with a pool that feels like a Slim Aarons photograph and an unfettered sea view that is all consuming (in the best possible way). The rooms are chic and pared-back and the food is great, but it is that sublime seawater pool and Mediterranean outlook that will remain lodged in your memory.
For seafood with a view… dine at Les Paillotes
The bustle of charming Saint Raphaël betrays the beautiful stillness of its coastline. Scattered along this stretch of shoreline are some hidden gems, and Les Paillotes is surely the best. A small but mighty seafood restaurant, it serves extraordinary fare with an unbeatable view. Dine on the catch of the day or prawn linguine and douse yourself in rosé as you watch the Mediterranean lap the sand below you.
For a city break with a difference… try Hyères
It is largely known for its annual fashion and photography festival in April, but there is much to recommend the coastal Provençal town of Hyères all year round. There are terracotta roofs and peach-hued houses, turquoise-clear waters lapping at the sandy beaches and stone courtyards spilling over with chic eateries. The old town is full of narrow, winding alleyways, which give way to busy food markets, full of local honeys, olives and cheeses.
Modern art lovers can rejoice at the Art Deco splendour of Villa Noailles, which was built by the architect Robert Mallet-Stevens in the 1920s and is now home to an impressive contemporary art collection. Or, you can abandon the mainland and take a boat out to the nearby Iles d’Or, in particular, the diverting Porquerolle, with its vineyards, old town and some of the best diving spots in France.
For refined romance… dine at Le Pigonnet
There are myriad reasons to visit Aix-en-Provence, the unofficial capital of the region. This historic university town is full of character and charm. As the birthplace of Cezanne, you can still visit his studio, now a museum, and there is a vibrant art and culture scene, with dozens of galleries. But tear yourself away from the churches, shops, cathedrals and charming statue-strewn squares and you will also find a thriving food scene. For one of the more picturesque stops, opt for the resplendent restaurant Le Pigonnet, which dates back to 1924. It is impossible to believe you are in the heart of town, when you are enjoying exemplary Provençal cuisine in the peace of their stunning garden.
For the definitive luxury escape… visit Saint Jean Cap Ferrat
The outermost tip of the Côte d’Azur has the second-most expensive real-estate location in the world. Driving through its winding residential lanes, you may think you have stumbled accidentally into Beverly Hills. Yet, for all its undisputed glamour and the tree-hugged roads hiding the secreted enclaves of global billionaires, it is perhaps the most Provençal of the coast’s glamorous destinations. Much of this has to do with the fact that it is located on a peninsula, and feels somehow tucked away in comparison to the volume of the other locales. It is leafy and quiet and oddly quaint for somewhere so exclusive.
The discreet outcrop was actually fairly undiscovered until the Belle Epoque, when the Rothschild family built a villa there, and the rich and fabulous soon followed suit. It was during this period, in 1908, that the region’s most iconic hotel, The Grand Hotel Cap Ferrat, was built. When heading to the region, there is simply nowhere better to stay for a slice of history and a taste of undiluted luxury in its purest form.
The hotel has retained much of its original charm and design. Its bright, cool white edifice with neoclassical design overlooks beautiful Italianate gardens and a quirky funicular that leads you to ‘Club Dauphin’ – the hotel’s pool and beach club – where you can recline on sun loungers or hide yourself away in cabanas on the rocks. The food here is outrageously good, with Provençal dishes and drinks served in the same leafy garden with sea views that you will take your breakfast in, and the service is unparalleled. Pay particular attention to the hotel’s award-winning sommelier, Alessandro Nigro Imperiale, who will guide you through the wine list with charm and aplomb at the hotel’s gastronomic restaurant, Le Cap.
When travelling through Provence, do not miss it; it is where the luxury of this region truly began, and it’s always a good idea to go right to the source.
