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Gardening Q&A: Maintenance of perennials sometimes comes down to personal preference

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Q. I have a question about perennial maintenance. Typically after the first hard frost, I’ll cut hostas, daylilies, clematis, iris and Russian sage off at ground level. This year I purchased “perennials” Miss Huff lantana and a verbena. I’m assuming that these two would need a very mild winter to return next spring. How much should I cut back these to continue as perennials: none, retain all the woody stems, just keep several inches, or cut off at ground level like my other perennials? — H. Everette, Virginia Beach

Plant Delights Nursery in Raleigh recommends pruning back in spring. It can be done in late-fall if it is a eyesore to you.
Plant Delights Nursery in Raleigh recommends pruning back in spring. It can be done in late-fall if it is a eyesore to you.

A. They should survive a mild winter here, as in the type of winter we’ve had the last couple of years. Whether or not the plants are in a protected spot can also be a factor in overwintering. Regarding pruning, the short answer is that some folks prune in the fall and others in the spring. It doesn’t appear to make much difference, at least with the lantana. It is possible that the spring-pruned plant might get a little quicker head start over the late fall-pruned plant, but eventually they should end up about the same size. Plant Delights Nursery in Raleigh recommends pruning back in spring.

If it will be an eyesore for you this winter, I’d go ahead and prune to about a 4-6 inches? and mulch to give the crown a little winter protection. If not, cut them back about the same next spring after danger of last killing frost has past.

Q. I have several Fuyu persimmons that are sending out other new seedlings. Are they able to be dug up for another tree to plant? Also are they a true clone of the parent? — Peter Lee, Virginia Beach

A. Some of the oriental persimmons are parthenocarpic. So, does the fruit have seeds? Or do the “seedlings” appear to be arising from the roots? If the seedlings are from the germinated seeds of fallen fruits, then they are not a genetical identical (clone) to the parent and may not exhibit the characteristics you have come to expect, and value, in the parent. Nevertheless, it is impossible to say how different from the parent they might be. In fact, the progeny might just be acceptable to you.

Some oriental persimmons are parthenocarpic (produce no seeds). Propagation from root cuttings may be possible.
Some oriental persimmons are parthenocarpic (produce no seeds). Propagation from root cuttings may be possible.

Another issue is that plants that are produced from persimmon seed can take as much as five to seven years to reach reproductive maturity and yield fruits. This is another reason they are typically propagated by grafting in the trade — to circumvent this issue.

If what you have are adventitious sprouts from the root system, then these would indeed be genetically identical to the plant. You may be able to dig these and induce roots to grow, treating them as you would cuttings. In theory, those closer in proximity to the crown of the plant may be more inclined to strike roots.

And one more thing (or two)

Mark you calendar for the Virginia Camellia Society Fall Camellia Flower Show and Sale 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nov. 14 at Chesapeake Central Library, 298 Cedar Road, Chesapeake. Free. Come with questions and/or blooms to enter. Workshops, displays, and camellias for sale. For more information, visit www.genserva.com/vcs/.

A shout out to everyone who responded to the wrap-up column a couple weeks ago on tomatoes. I assume that fall vegetable gardening takes a backseat to the summer garden with most. For those of you who put in a fall garden, I encourage you to prove me wrong. Please write in and share your fall gardening experiences.

Send questions to wkspen@gmail.com.