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Recipe: Braised short ribs become a warming ragout with a parsnip-cauliflower mash

Braised short rib ragout with parsnip-cauliflower mash Claudia Catalano for The Boston Globe

Serves 6

A relatively small amount of beef short rib transforms this warming winter dish into a flavor-packed ragout served over mashed parsnips and cauliflower. Mash the vegetables by hand with a potato masher or a fork for a chunky puree. For browning and braising the beef ribs, use a heavy-based pot that is just large enough to fit the ribs in one layer. The cooking liquid should come at least halfway up the sides of the beef. If not, you can add more water. The easiest way to skim the fat after braising is to cook the ribs a day in advance. Once refrigerated, the fat will solidify and can be removed easily. After the meat is meltingly tender, it’s shredded, and simmers again for half an hour. The pot spends the better part of an afternoon in the oven. Enjoy the warmth and aromas coming from the kitchen.

SHORT RIBS

3pounds bone-in beef short ribs
Salt and pepper, to taste
3tablespoons vegetable oil
1large onion, coarsely chopped
1large carrot, coarsely chopped
1large stalk celery, coarsely chopped
4cloves garlic, chopped
¼cup tomato paste
cups red wine
cups water
1tablespoon soy sauce
1tablespoon brown sugar
2bay leaves
1tablespoon lemon juice

1. Set the oven at 275 degrees.

2. Sprinkle the short ribs generously on all sides with salt and pepper. In a large flameproof casserole over medium-high heat, heat 1½ tablespoons of the oil. Brown the ribs, allowing each side to cook undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer the ribs to a bowl; discard the oil in the pan.

3. Turn down the heat to medium and add the remaining 1½ tablespoons oil. Cook the onion, carrot, and celery, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook 5 minutes more. Add the red wine, water, soy sauce, brown sugar, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and return the ribs to the pan with any accumulated juices in the bowl.

4. Cover and transfer to the oven. Braise for 2½ hours, turning the ribs halfway through cooking, or until the meat is falling off the bone. Remove the ribs from the pot and set aside to cool. Remove and discard the bay leaves from the sauce. With a large spoon, skim the fat from the cooking liquid (or cool and refrigerate the ribs and cooking liquid overnight and discard the congealed fat on the surface the next day).

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5. Remove the meat from the bones and shred it into small pieces. Return to the cooking liquid and bring to boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the lemon juice, taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

PARSNIP-CAULIFLOWER MASH

pounds parsnips, chopped
1head cauliflower, cut into florets
2cups milk
1cup water
1tablespoon salt
2tablespoons butter
Grated rind of 1 lemon
¼cup chopped fresh parsley (for garnish)

1. In a large pot over medium heat, combine the parsnips, cauliflower, milk, water, and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cover the pan. Simmer for 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender.

2. With a slotted spoon, transfer the parsnips and cauliflower to a large bowl; keep the cooking liquid in the pot. Add the butter to the vegetables and crush with a potato masher or a large fork. Add a few splashes of the reserved cooking liquid and continue to mix until you have a soft, chunky mash. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like.

3. On each of 4 plates, spoon generous portions of the mash and top with a spoonful of the ragout. Garnish with lemon rind and parsley. Claudia Catalano

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Claudia Catalano can be reached at claudia.j.catalano@gmail.com.