Why this new Bethlehem restaurant with killer views almost lost its terrace

Gateway at Greenway Park Zest Bar and Grill construction

The covered outdoor terrace at the new Zest bar + grille, atop the Gateway at Greenway Park in Bethlehem, was almost derailed. (Sara K. Satullo | For lehighvalleylive.com)

When the team behind South Whitehall Township’s popular Grille 3501 announced it was opening a new Southside Bethlehem restaurant perched on the top floor of the Gateway at Greenway Park, they promised year-round terrace dining and killer views.

But that plan has been in jeopardy since the city ordered a halt to construction of the all-weather balcony that drew Zest co-owner John Trapani to the space in the sixth floor of the building at 306 S. New St.

When the South Bethlehem Historic Conservation Commission approved developer Dennis Benner’s $25 million six-story project, it was conditional: the top floor was supposed to be recessed 12-feet along West Third Street and have a thin projecting roof to diminish its street-level visibility.

Yet, when Zest’s contractor applied for city building permits to create the restaurant space, no one in the city’s building and planning department flagged the terrace design.

So building permits were issued and Zest was moving full throttle on a $2.5 million interior fit-out of the space, including a roof on the terrace and sliding glass doors that can be flung all the way open in good weather. The owners hoped to open in mid-January. The new dining spot is even in contention to appear on a new Food Network Show “Opening Night,” Trapani said.

Tuesday night Trapani found himself before Bethlehem City Council pleading that council override the historic board’s recommendation that it deny a certificate of appropriateness, normally a precursor to building permits being issued in a historic district.

“I will pretty much be ruined if it doesn’t happen," Trapani said frankly.

Council members were irritated and let it be known that they did not appreciate being backed into a corner. They were left with the option of overriding the advisory historic board since the city screwed up and construction was already well underway or telling the restaurant to undo its existing work.

Plans call for enclosing a large section of the sixth-floor terrace, which fronts on West Third Street, by installing an accordion-style folding metal and glass wall system measuring about 47-feet wide by 12-feet deep.

“Somewhere along the lines somebody dropped the ball,” Councilman Adam Waldron said. “It puts us in a difficult position when construction is already a good clip along. Where do we go now?”

Ultimately, council voted 6-2 to override the historic commission’s denial of the certificate of appropriateness with Councilwoman Olga Negron and Dr. Paige Van Wirt voting to uphold the decision. Council then voted along the same lines to issue a certificate, making continued construction possible.

The mixed-use building at the foot of the Fahy Bridge has long been a controversial project due to its sheer height and size and the adjacent city parking deck that it relies on for parking. The building sits within the South Bethlehem Historic Conservation District.

Negron clearly felt the situation was laughable and emphasized she’d long opposed the “ugly” Benner building, which she feels destroyed the character of the historic Southside. She suggested sending the issue back to the historic commission to sort it out, noting plenty of Main Street restaurants have seasonal patios. She questioned what’s the point of having historic commissions if they’re regularly ignored.

“We have rules and most of us have to abide by every single one because we don’t have big money in our pockets to get through it,” Negron said. “This is so wrong.”

Waldron noted council voting against the historic board and commissions, which are both advisory, is rare. Tuesday night council sided with the commission on eight certificates of appropriateness, approving seven and denying one, he noted.

Director of Community and Economic Development Alicia Miller Karner admitted that her department dropped the ball, allowing the historic conditions to fall through the cracks. The permit application was for the interior build-out of the restaurant, not something that typically has a historic condition attached. The error was missed by several people, she said.

“There is a significant responsibility on us when we issue a permit inadvertently,” Karner said, adding the city always works closely with the “savvy” local development community, “... I really feel a sense of responsibility in this instance. It was highly unusual.”

Gateway at Greenway Park Zest outdoor patio

The city ordered construction of an all-weather outdoor patio at Zest bar + grille be halted.

Van Wirt was not ready to lay the blame on the city. Benner knew that his project was approved with a 12-foot setback on the sixth floor and when the lease was negotiated the square feet of the restaurant, including the terrace, should’ve been determined, she said.

The views offered by the outdoor dining space were a major selling point for Trapani when he signed the lease about a year ago, he said. Benner’s marketing staff negotiated the lease, not him, Benner said, and at that time the restaurant was not designed.

“It was very clear the HCC did not want this to protrude out to the edge,” Waldron said. “They wanted that setback on the sixth floor.”

Benner said he suspected the setback was intended to make the building appear smaller, but the Fahy Bridge is the only vantage point where it is clearly six-stories. Some on council countered that assertion.

“I think the building owner has a role to oversee the fit out of the restaurant,” Van Wirt said. “And I will be supporting the (historic commission) tonight.”

Councilman Bryan Callahan said prior to seeing the terrace he was concerned, but in person he believes the change is minimal. The city did err in issuing the permit, he said.

Trapani echoed that there was no ill-intent on his part.

“We just want to build our restaurant with that enclosure so we can open it,” he said.

Grille 3501 first opened in 2001 and quickly became a fixture for high-end eats in the Allentown area with a New American menu. The restaurant, which expanded in 2014 with a new loft area, is owned by Trapani, and the kitchen is led by chef and co-owner John Pukanecz.

With Tuesday night’s approval, Zest’s mid-January opening is still on target.

Sara K. Satullo may be reached at ssatullo@lehighvalleylive.com. Follow her on Twitter @sarasatullo and Facebook. Find lehighvalleylive.com on Facebook.

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