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Front Burner

Smoked, Steak May Never Be the Same

At Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue, steak is bathed in smoke before it’s finished on a grill.

Credit...Caitlin Ochs for The New York Times

There’s barbecue, low and slow, and then there’s grilling, hot and quick. Now, both methods meet in an unusual approach taken by Cenobio Canalizo, the chef at Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue. The result is smoked steak, so delicious that it made me wonder why anyone would cook a steak any other way. The steak, a boneless prime New York strip, is smoked with a dusting of smoked salt for about 20 minutes in a regular smoker alongside brisket and ribs. Then the steak is set aside. Later, to order, it’s finished on the grill and served sliced with more smoked salt. The meat has a subtle, alluring woodsy char in its aroma and flavor. Mr. Canalizo said the method would work for a bone-in steak and, with about 45 minutes in the smoker, a double porterhouse or rib-eye. Try it at home.

Smoked steak, $33 for 14 ounces, Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue, 267 Flatbush Avenue (St. Marks Avenue), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, 718-622-2224, morgansbrooklynbarbecue.com.

Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks. More about Florence Fabricant

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section D, Page 3 of the New York edition with the headline: To Sizzle: Marinated in Smoke For a Lasting Appeal. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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