The COVID-19 crisis has changed a lot of things, including the way we eat and drink. For the past 25 years, I’ve made my living dining out, and I am still visiting restaurants across the region and far and wide but a bit more cautiously. In my Beach Eats column, I’m going to bring you my fabulous foodie finds, along with observations at area eateries to help you make informed decisions both on where you visit, and what you select from the menu. From time to time, I’ll share other health and safety tips as well as other items of interest, just as I have for two-plus decades here in the pages of the Pilot.
I’ve long been a fan of Samuel “Big Sam” Caldow’s seafood shack, which overlooks the comings and goings at Rudee Inlet.
Big Sam’s Raw Bar, named after Big Sam himself, is unpretentious. But the service is always friendly, the prices fair and the food solid.
While I often head there for breakfast, I do like to make it down for lunch and dinner occasionally. There are happy hour deals on steamed shrimp and raw oysters. Big Sam’s has some of the best chicken wings you can get if you know to ask that they be finished by throwing them on the flattop grill for a second cooking. The cocktails — at breakfast and later in the day — soothe the savage beast.
THE EAT: LOBSTER BLT, $13.99
Even if you were over turkey and leftovers by now, the lobster BLT at Big Sam’s would be a fine indulgence.
A large scoop of lobster salad, crafted from claw and knuckle meat tossed with roasted corn and onion, is sandwiched between two slices of toasted rosemary bread and garnished with bacon, lettuce and tomato. It is as good as it sounds.
The natural richness of the lobster, combined with the sweetness of the corn and just enough mayonnaise to bind the ingredients and not overpower them, allow for full-on flavors. There were a lot of complementary tastes and textures, not just from the lobster and corn but from the piquancy of the onion and the simple spices, which seemed to be mostly salt and pepper.
Also adding to the party was the bun. I personally think anything is better when the bread is toasted, and the addition of rosemary really set off the sandwich.
The classic components of the BLT were not afterthoughts either. The bacon was crisp, and the lettuce was chilled and fresh. The tomato was red and ripe and thick-cut. It was a complete delight.
The lobster BLT comes with the choice of one side. Among the choices are bay fries, potato salad, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans and charro beans. I picked the latter, a rich concoction of beans slow cooked with pork and spices with a rich southwestern flavor.
THE DRINK: LIMEADE
I have sung the virtues of Big Sam’s limeade before, and I will do so again and again, so refreshing is this cocktail.
Sweet and tart and full of citrus flavor, it’s like one of the refreshing non-alcoholic beverages of the same name enjoyed during the summer but heavily spiked with vodka. And don’t let my mention of the seasonality throw you off; you should not wait for warm weather to enjoy one of these vessels — well, plastic cups — that are filed to the brim with the nectar of the gods.
THE OBSERVATION
Before you head up the ramp and into Big Sam’s, a masked greeter offers indoor or outdoor seating and reminds folks of face covering and distance policies. All employees we observed, and guests when not eating, were compliant with wearing a mask.
Having eaten at Big Sam’s for decades, it was surprising to not see the condiment round up on the table and large roll of paper towels; now packets of what’s needed are brought out with the meal.
Tables and other seating are distanced, and I observed them being sanitized as they were vacated. Our server was friendly and helpful.
Big Sam’s Raw Bar is at 300 Winston Salem Ave.; call 757-428-4858 or visit bigsamsrawbar.com.
Patrick Evans-Hylton, patrickevanshylton@gmail.com
