Napa Valley cabernet swirling into a glass at a black tie party is downright glamorous. But PBS Documentary “Harvest Season” chronicles one vintage in the life of two industry stars who pride themselves on getting their hands dirty. It’s a fairly quiet film but its power lies in its unflinching eye on a world rarely seen. The story unfolds against the backdrop of the conditions of the migrant workers and the brutal elements of nature that vintners, growers and pickers battle each day.
The season chosen was especially poignant because it ended with the 2017 Napa-Sonoma fires. The subjects chosen were veteran Gustavo Brambila, one of the first Latinos to graduate from the prestigious U.C. Davis wine program, and Vanessa Robledo, a fourth-generation grower who defied her family’s patriarchal ways to strike out on her own.
Two-time Emmy-nominated director-producer Bernardo Ruiz focused on the Mexican-American influence on California’s multi-billion-dollar wine industry.
Initially, Robledo hesitated to participate. After her parents divorced, she decided to help her mother rebuild her company, Maria de La Luz Vineyards, from scratch. She had to make sure mom, Maria de la Luz Robledo, was in.
“I told her, ‘He wants to tell my story and because I’m working with you I want to know if it’s OK with you,’” she said. “My mom said ‘Let me meet him and see.’” They invited Ruiz over, made chile rellenos and opened a bottle of chardonnay. Once her mom felt comfortable, cameras rolled.
We spoke with Robledo to get her insights into the industry and the film, which is streaming on PBS.org through May 27.
Q: Your mom is 66 and speaks no English. Were you worried about her being camera shy?
A: She always says, “Don’t make me go up there. Don’t make me talk,” and then she’ll say, “Can I go up there?” and she’ll talk your ear off. Imagine, she came from a little village in Mexico, grew up poor and she and my dad became landowners in this country. Now she’s in a film. It’s pretty impressive for her, and overwhelming.
Q: Your story is fascinating. Didn’t your success create a rift in the family business?
A: When I was 19 my dad put me in charge of Robeldo Family Winery… He told me, “I’m putting you in charge because I know you can do this, but someday your brother will own the winery. It will be his because your brothers carry on the Robledo name. This is a family tradition I don’t want to change.”
Q: After 10 years that’s exactly what happened, but you did it anyway. Why?
A: I thought I could change my dad if he saw how good I was…I told my dad, “I understand it, I respect it, I don’t agree with it, and that means it’s time for me to go unless you’re willing to change.” My dad said he wouldn’t change. So I told him, “Then you have to respect me leaving.” So I did. But it was very hard.
Q: Great career move. Right?
A: I went from Robledo Family Winery to Black Coyote Chateau, a winery with a $100 bottle of cabernet. It totally shifted everything I knew about the industry. We grew that company and the founder gave me the opportunity to have ownership.
Q: You come from a Spanish-speaking household with seven brothers who were always going to be stronger and faster than you in the vineyard. But you actually see that as an advantage which made you determined to succeed?
A: I grew up in a male-dominated family, survived that, was thrown into the wine industry that’s male dominated as well. So my childhood prepared me to become a very strong woman. I think that’s what people appreciate about that story that women can do anything.
Q: What’s been the feedback?
A: The feedback that I have gotten is, “You inspired me.” I get that a lot from young women.
Q: The scene that contrasts mass in Spanish and tourists on the wine train, that is so Napa. Right?
A: You have these people driven by their faith and the majority are the ones producing these wines with their hands. Then you have these consumers who don’t realize what it takes to make a bottle of wine…the sacrifices that are made to produce every drop of wine are extremely sacred and I think this film is really going to create a better appreciation for what wine farming is.
Q. The last scene in the film shows you and your mom walking through the vineyards that escaped the fires but ironically could not be saved from a virus and had to be burned. Was that hard on you?
A: It was very hard because I was losing something both my daughter and I had grown up with. My grandfather taught us the vines were like a part of us. The vines are like a woman. From pruning to the harvest is nine months and after the vines have given birth, after we claim the harvest, the vines go to sleep for three months just like grandma after she had each of her 13 children, she would fall asleep after labor. With his stories I was able to connect very passionately with those vines and without those vines you would not have wine. That is the root of our business. Every harvest you’re always grateful for whatever it gives you. Sometimes it gives you less and and sometimes it’s more and sometimes just the right amount. You don’t ever know. But you’re always thankful to be able to harvest.
Q: Did having your mom by your side help with the filming?
A: My mom is faithful and connected to God. She said, “Vanessa we’re starting all over, it’s going to be fine, the land will still take care of us. We have to let it go.” When I found out they were sick I was on the ground crying because I couldn’t handle how painful it was. But like everything in life, it’s a cycle. Sometimes things have to die, but the film helped me with that, too. It helped me be stronger and things always happen for a reason. I never expected it to happen much less be captured on film.
