Good news, skin nerds: These are the doctor-approved, clinic-level treatments you can do in your bathroom
You may be the type who has a regular sesh with your facialist every few weeks, or perhaps you're a skincare junkie who likes to swot up on the latest and greatest the skincare-sphere has to offer. Either way, your ability to get clinic-level results in your very own bathroom has become considerably more achievable of late.
So, if you feel like your skin needs the sort of rigorous tending-to that only a skincare professional can provide, you'll be pleased to hear you won't need to slog it across town. (That said, once the world opens up again, we'll be first in the queue to support our fave skincare pros by treating ourselves to some expert TLC).
Ask some of the world’s leading skin experts and they agree that at-home formulas are becoming more and more impressive. Last year, The Future Laboratory predicted that we'd start to see a surge in consumers looking for skincare that mimics the results of surgical/dermatological treatments and it appears the pros have been working hard to meet that demand: “This is the closest I’ve come to providing clients with the treatments I would offer in the clinic, but at home,” says A-list dermatologist, Dr Dennis Gross, as we talk through his PRO range, which bridges the gap between clinical grade products and day to day skincare. “It’s a line designed specifically for people whose skin is already acclimated to active ingredients and are looking for the next step up,” he explains.
In an age where consumers have never been better-informed, it’s little surprise we’re turning directly to the experts – the doctors, facialists and aestheticians – as a frank and trusted source of skincare know-how. And with many having established social channels to speak straight to consumers, several are launching their own skincare ranges steeped in decades of expertise, to hand over to their clients.
“It’s clear that consumers are becoming much more knowledgable about ingredients, whilst also becoming more sceptical about what a product promises,” states leading dermatologist, Dr Sam Bunting. “Through the power of social media, men and women are discussing sophisticated issues like sunscreen filters and retinoids, from their smartphones” she says. As for brands who fall short of our increasingly discerning standards: “today’s consumer is quick to call bullshit on products that are overly expensive and make exaggerated claims,” says Bunting. In fact we’re requiring more in the way of innovation, active ingredients and high performance from our products than ever before. The growing number of “skintellectuals” (ultra savvy skincare consumers) searching for en-pointe skincare, has seen doctor and facialist brands sky-rocket on sites like Space NK and Net-A-Porter where these categories have seen an 80% uptick in sales over the couple of last years.
But, if you’re wondering what the USP is of these new "expert" brands, well, that comes from being in the trenches, they say. Having treated thousands of patients, the professionals are confident their homecare formulations offer solutions other brands simply don’t tick off. “I have a close understanding of my client’s requirements, likes and dislikes,” says top facialist, Sarah Chapman, (the woman behind Meghan Markle’s fresh, wedding day skin). Rather than being trend led, the products created by these frontline experts are “created to target real skin issues seen in the clinic,” says Chapman. Once they identify a problem, they can go about formulating the fix.
Dr Bunting created her skincare line after recognising a missing link between anti-blemish products reaching adult women, whose skin naturally has different needs from teenagers. “The anti-ageing market pays little consideration to the 40% of grown-up women who are acne-prone, often formulating with ingredients that can trigger breakouts,” she says. Her range came off the back of patients regularly highlighting the lack of skincare addressing this issue.
Likewise, Dr Yannis Alexandrides, founder of insider skincare brand, 111SKIN, has spent years reviewing the delivery systems of his products to bring them closer in line with his professional treatments after clients called for something they could use on themselves at home. His Meso Infusion Overnight Micro Mask uses cutting edge technology to administer active ingredients further into the skin in a process similar to professional mesotherapy (which involves injecting superfine needles containing potent actives into the top layers of the skin). “The ingredients are fused together at liquid temperatures and then, utilising computerised handling equipment, micro droplets are pulled apart to form hundreds of cones [which gently replicate the effects of the needles used in-clinic],” explains Dr Alexandrides. “When applied, the mask melts into the skin, infusing super potent line-plumping ingredients. It’s pioneering science that really works,” he says, and it was inspired by his background treating clients.
Tools, too, have had the pro treatment by those in-the-know. Face gadgets, like facial rollers have becoming a booming industry thanks to the likes of facialists Teresa Tarmey, Nurse Jamie and Joanna Czech, all of whom have developed tools that mimic the treatments they offer professionally. “All of the beauty tools are based off of our most popular in-office treatments,” says Jamie Sherrill, founder of Nurse Jamie. “I wanted to make a line of beauty tools and products that are as user friendly as possible to truly replicate the spa experience from the comfort of your own home.”
But, with all this innovation, do we even need to visit the professionals any more? The consensus from the pros, is yes. “A visit to the clinic does of course have many advantages. Clients will benefit from the expertise of dermal therapists, who will analyse the skin and provide recommendations for treatments and products at home to ensure optimal results,” says Chapman. “Every facial treatment is uniquely tailored to meet the needs of each individual client, meaning no two facials are the same,” she adds. What's more, professional treatments provide access to the latest advanced technologies, such as micro-needling, IPL, and clinical-strength peels that simply can't be administered in the same way at home. “Professional treatments are of a higher strength, so need to be administered by qualified therapists,” explains top dermatologist, Dr Murad. In comparison, when creating at-home treatments, the experts have to ensure products are “as powerful as they can be, using the highest grade of ingredient available, while staying within the limits that permit them to be an over-the-counter product,” he adds.
Realistically, though, we all lead very busy lives and it’s not always possible to squeeze in regular treatments. That’s where at-home ranges come in. They follow the same structure of professional treatments (albeit at a lower dosage), they offer convenience and, crucially, they afford you the ability to use them regularly. While professional treatments tend to occur monthly, their at-home counterparts can be applied daily, which, cumulatively can match what we receive in the clinic – think little and often, rather than intense and occasional – making them an ideal way to maintain skin condition. “If the at-home products are used as often as prescribed, you can indeed achieve professional, in-office results at home,” says Dr Gross.
Here are the pro brands bringing clinic-level skincare your bathroom
Cleanser Blemish Control, £48, Look Fantastic
Dr Harold Lancer: The Man with the Method
Dr Lancer’s basic skincare ‘Method’ is simple: “You need to polish, cleanse and nourish your skin each day with products that will keep it healthy and clear,” he says. He developed his three-step Lancer Method after finding that this magic trio “works more beneficially in stimulating oxygen transfer and skin cell repair mechanism” than overly convoluted skincare regimes. And with high profile clients like Beyonce, Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Lopez wedded to his products, it seems he’s onto something special. “The consumer may be able to tell the quality of a product by texture and feel, but to really know if the quality is good, you should see a significant difference in skin,” he says. His Cleanser Blemish Control, £48 from Look Fantastic, purifies, detoxifies and contains skin-nourishing amino acids and rice proteins to hydrate and rebalance.
Grade Resurfacing Liquid Peel, £102, Space NK
Dr Dennis Gross: The Innovator
Dr Gross is an experienced dermatologist with over 25 years of experience. He was one of the first to bring LED face masks into our homes with his DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro light therapy mask. His two-step Professional Grade Resurfacing Liquid Peel, £102, offers a more professional grade peel than ever before. Higher concentrations of alpha and beta hydroxy acids plus bromelain – a medically proven exfoliating enzyme – boosts penetration and accelerates cell turnover for fresher looking skin. Step two sees proven skin soothing ingredients balance the skin and minimise irritation. And the best bit is, you can save money on your purchase with our Space NK discount codes.
Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, £75, Feel Unique
Dr Howard Murad: The Veteran
Having tended to over 50,000 patients and with more than thirty years in the industry, Dr Murad used his experience as both a dermatologist and a pharmacist to overcome the problem of administering high-strength retinol in a non-irritating at-home formula. His Tri-Active technology, available in his Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, £75 from Feel Unique, combines a fast-acting retinoid (which boosts cell turnover), time-release retinol (which is encapsulated in a lipid shell to deliver the ingredients more slowly over time) and a retinol booster (which acts like a magnet to enhance our skin’s receptivity to the retinol). The blend of three different retinoids rather than one means that it can feed into skin more seamlessly, without causing irritation since the molecules are each a different size. The same technology is used (at a higher dosage) in Dr Murad’s professional facials.
Dr Sam’s Flawless Daily Sunscreen, £29, Dr. Sam Bunting
Dr Sam Bunting: The Acne Fighter
Dr Bunting knows what she’s doing when it comes to imparting her expertise to her clients. She’s built up a huge social media following by providing simple how-to videos and digestible skincare advice. Her skincare range helps to address blemish-fighting solutions for grown-ups after 75% of her patients reported struggling with adult breakouts. The Dr Sam’s Flawless Daily Sunscreen, £29, tackles two birds with one stone. First broad spectrum SPF is the gold standard in preventing premature ageing, second she’s corrected its troublesome reputation for clogging pores by creating a lightweight formula blended with blemish-calming niacinamide.
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Meso Infusion Overnight Micro Mask, £100 for 4, Cult Beauty
Dr Yannis Alexandrides: The Celebrity Insider
Cosmetic surgeon Dr Alexandrides' 111SKIN range has become a celebrity favourite with fans including Margot Robbie, Holly Willoughby, Bella Hadid and top aesthetician Joanna Czech (who swears by his sheet masks in the run-up to red carpet events). His Meso Infusion Overnight Micro Mask, £100 for four at Cult Beauty, mimics the effect of mesotherapy by penetrating skin with potent active ingredients to boost skin brightness and hydration. His top tip? “Make sure the skin is thoroughly cleansed before application as trapped dirt will imbed into pores, causing imperfections and preventing the actives from being absorbed.”
Hyaluronic Serum, £235, Space NK
Dr Barbara Sturm: The Molecular Magician
Heavily versed in stem cell research, Dr Sturm is hallowed for her work in regenerating skin and is the woman behind the now-infamous vampire facial. She’s responsible for giving glow to top A-listers like Gwyneth Paltrow and Emma Stone. Her skincare line was created to enable clients to take her expertise home with them and her Hyaluronic Serum, £235 from Space NK –which contains tiny hyaluronic molecules that penetrate deeply into skin to supercharge hydration – has become a best-seller on premium skincare retailer Net-A-Porter.
Soothe & Smooth Collagen Activating Eye Complex, £95, Cult Beauty
Dr Maryam Zamani: The Eye Expert
Leading oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor, Dr Maryam Zamani, knows everything there is to know about eyes and facial aesthetics. Leaning on her gigantic bank of medical knowledge, Zamani created a skincare line to replicate the effects she can produce in surgery and in her clinic. The MZ Skin range is an alchemy of science with beauty. Packed with antioxidants, retinols, ceramides, peptides and skincare innovators like plant and animal stem cells, its aim is to recreate that post-holiday, refreshed glow. The Soothe & Smooth Collagen Activating Eye Complex, £95 at Current Body, contains tri-peptides to boost collagen and elastin, albazia bark extract to strengthen capillaries (thereby reducing dark circles) and ceramides to restore moisture. Even better, it’s been clinically proven to work.
NuVibe RX Amethyst Massaging Tool, £93, Revolve
Nurse Jamie: The Gadget Queen
After training as a registered nurse, Jamie Sherrill made a name for herself as a top skincare practitioner. Her focus is on providing tools and gadgets which enhance our skincare. “I think of skincare as the fuel and beauty tools as the automobile – you need both to get somewhere,” she says. Her vibrating NuVibe RX Amethyst Massaging Tool, £93 at Revolve, has a fan following which includes Jessica Alba and the Kardashians and uses sonic vibrations to massage skin, boost circulation and encourage radiance.
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RéVive Vitalité Energising Hydration Mist, £45, Space NK
Dr Gregory Bays Brown: The Bio-Engineer
Dr Brown is the man who brought bioengineering to beauty. “As we age, the molecules that maintain all those qualities of youth – firmness, dewy glow, elasticity, etc – dissipate. Using bioengineered ingredients (human templates of those above mentioned molecules created synthetically) are the cornerstone of [my skincare brand] RéVive,” says Dr Brown. His RéVive Vitalité Energising Hydration Mist, £45 at Space NK, contains powerful antioxidants, algae extract and an energy boosting bio-renewal protein and never fails to bestow fresh, glowing, healthy-looking skin.
Doctor's Scrub, £34, Cult Beauty
Dr Gary Goldfaden: The Botanical Enthusiast
A dermatologist with over 40 years experience, Dr Goldfaden favours plant cells and antioxidant-rich botanicals blended with state of the art technology. His first ever formula, the now-cult Doctor's Scrub, £34 works in much the same way as microdermabrasion which utilises a diamond-tipped tool to polish skin. Blended with micro-fine ruby crystals, it helps to lift away stubborn dead skin cells to reveal brighter, fresher skin, while nourishing seaweed and organic red tea extract help to soothe and hydrate.
Hydro Mist Steamer, £199, Sam Chapman
Sarah Chapman: The Steam Queen
Lifted, glowing, invigorated skin has become a signature of Sarah Chapman, whose facials are sought out by the elite, such as Uma Therman, Naomi Watts and Meghan Markle. She created her Facialift Tool, £30, nine years ago (before they were all the rage), to mimic the results at home. Regular use brightens, tightens, drains toxins, reduces puffiness and gives glow. Recently, she added the Pro Hydro-Mist Steamer, £119, to her line-up, inspired by the professional facial steamers in her Skinesis Clinic. “Using an advanced nano steam technology, the steamer effectively penetrates the skin with tiny, ultrasonic particles to ease congestion, provide a deeper cleanse and deliver an instant hydration hit,” says Chapman. “The cleaner the skin, the better it is able to absorb the products you apply afterwards. Almost all the facials at my clinic start with a steam. Essentially, this tool helps you unlock that extra clinical advantage at home.”
Teresa Tarmey 12-Week Programme, £350, Teresa Tarmey
Teresa Tarmey: The Facial Wizzkid
Facialist to the stars (such as Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevigne and Michelle Williams), Teresa Tarmey has spent years perfecting at-home versions to replicate her signature treatments. Her ultra advanced 12-Week Programme, £350, puts pro techniques like micro-needling and mesotherapy into your own hands in a 6-step system that includes brightening lactic acid, skin-replenishing peptides and hydration-boosting hyaluronic acid, all helped along with a derma roller to aid absorption. Her trailblazing cryoball, £129, can be popped in the freezer before being rolled across skin to firm, sculpt and de-puff. And her Portable Medical LED System, £1,800 looks a little bit like a portable MRI scanner and can be used across the face and body to boost skin radiance. It’s meant for professionals or ultra-dedicated skincare addicts. “The price point is high but it beats any LED out there in terms of power, design and treatments it can offer,” says Tarmey.
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Antioxidant Serum, £180, Prager Skincare
Dr Michael Prager: Ahe Anti-Pollution Pro
Dr Michael Prager is a world-leader in the field of Botox. But for younger-looking skin, prevention is better than cure. His Prager Skincare line is focused around tackling pollution, which along with UVA and UVB rays are the main cause of premature ageing. He argues that sunscreen alone is no longer enough, and created his range after finding a lack of pollution-proofing products he could recommend to his clients. His Antioxidant Serum, £180, contains highly potent antioxidants vitamin C and ferulic acid, both of which help to neutralise the damaging free radicals in pollution.
