If there is one ingredient that unites dermatologists, beauty editors and consumers as a silver bullet for fine lines, it's retinol. The vitamin A derivative – which stimulates cell turnover and boosts collagen production, therefore reducing fine lines, smoothing skin and fading dark spots – set the skincare sphere on fire a few years ago, and hasn't let up, since.
But, if your complexion is on the sensitive side and has not reacted well to the potent product in the past, then it's time for you to meet a gentler alternative. Introducing: bakuchiol.
What is Bakuchiol for skin?
Pronounced 'back-ooh-chee-all,' this is a plant-based skincare solution that's said to stand up to retinol in the efficacy stakes – and then some. You see, it comes with none of the noted concerns around the fizziness of the active ingredient – namely, that it can result in irritation, flakiness and redness in some skins – particularly if yours is on the sensitive side.
Derived from the Indian babchi plant, which is used extensively in Ayurvedic medicine, bakuchiol is said to work on your fine lines, brighten, reduce the appearance of pores and to strengthen collagen – just like retinol.
Is Bakuchiol better than retinol?
Totally depends on your skin type. As it's a gentler alternative to retinol, then it's going to be a better shout if you are prone to, say, rosacea. Same goes for if you are consciously trying to move towards a more natural beauty routine. Skin tougher than Tyson and you'd rather something worked to the max than came from plants? Then retinol has more clinical evidence behind it and is likely to give you greater anti-ageing, collagen-boosting effects.
Is Bakuchiol safe for pregnancy?
It's sun-safe (retinol breaks down under UV rays and should not be worn in the day time) and, unlike the OG skin saviour, is safe when you're pregnant or breastfeeding.
It's becoming increasingly mainstream with glow-getting brand Ole Henriksen including it in their Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum, as well as being served up by the natural beauty brands.
What do the experts think about Bakuchiol?
'Bakuchiol is currently causing much interest in the beauty and skincare industry. It’s the new kid on the block being compared to retinol for its anti-ageing properties,' says Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible (Penguin, £14.99).
The science look promising. A 12 week 2018 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology was conducted on 44 volunteers, to compare the effects of 0.5% solutions of the two ingredients.
The study's authors found that: 'Bakuchiol and retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the compounds,' noting that: 'The retinol users reported more facial skin scaling and stinging.'
Their conclusion? That 'bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photoageing and is better tolerated than retinol... [it] is promising as a more tolerable alternative to retinol.'
As hardworking as the big 'R' with zero potential issues? I was intrigued.
So, I replaced my usual 0.5% retinol – of which I used a pea-sized amount three times a week at night, after cleansing – with Indeed Lab's bakuchiol reface pads. These can be used AM and PM, though I just used them nightly, through laziness, more than design.
ole henriksen Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle™ Retin-ALT Power Serum 30ml
ole henriksen Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle™ Retin-ALT Power Serum 30ml
While seven days isn't long enough for a hard comparison, I can see why they're being held up as a potential usurper to the glow-y complexion crown – particularly for the sensitive-skinned out there.
bybi-beauty BYBI Beauty Bakuchiol Booster Olive Squalane Night Booster 15ml
bybi-beauty BYBI Beauty Bakuchiol Booster Olive Squalane Night Booster 15ml
One gripe: my retinol comes in a recyclable glass bottle, and chucking a single use pad away every day felt pretty icky.
'Whilst the scientific data looks promising as an alternative to retinol, we need a greater number of larger-scale clinical trials to see if this initial excitement is genuinely warranted,' says Dr Mahto.
'Bakuchiol is believed to be a possible retinol alternative, and there have been a few studies investigating this substance in recent years,' says aesthetic doctor Dr David Jack. 'These early studies have showed that it may have similar activity, but perhaps be better tolerated by the skin in photo ageing.'
(This is the premature ageing of the skin as a result of UV radiation. As mentioned earlier, retinol and the sun are not friends and rays undermine the solution. Basically, because retinol pokes your skin into increased cell turnover, it views that as its primary job and fighting UVs as a secondary task. Thus, retinol can allow rays to damage your skin, if worn in the day time. Thank you for coming to my TED talk.)
However, he's on the same page as Dr Mahto when it comes to getting too hyped. 'Larger scale studies will be needed to add substance to these claims, as most of the studies so far have been fairly small.'
'The good thing about bakuchiol is that it seems to cause less scaling [peeling] than retinol, however, bakuchiol appears to cause more redness over time. So, it isn't necessarily a ‘golden bullet'.
His prediction? Given the robust body of evidence demonstrating how well retinol and its derivatives work – and that a phased introduction of retinols into skincare regimes can circumnavigate the whole redness and irritation thing: 'it's unlikely that this ingredient will replace retinol as the ingredient of choice any time soon in products designed to tackle oily skin conditions.'
Can you use Bakuchiol and retinol together?
There's zero reason why you can't use a little bakuchiol on top of your retinol. Why? The former is gentle enough that it's not going to head to war with the actives in the latter, so you can pimp up the dewy effect of your skincare routine.
My verdict on Bakuchiol
Skin that freaks out at even the phrase 'active ingredient?' Then this could be a way to test the waters, before graduating onto a low percentage retinol. Similarly, if you just crave a more plant-based beauty routine, then this could be one for you.
But in terms of a full-scale disruption of the anti-ageing market, I don't think that retinol should be quivering on her throne.
Quite yet.
What to buy from The Ordinary
The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil
Rose Hip Seed Oil is nature's anti-ageing superstar. Rich in Omega-3 (yes, like in Salmon) and Omega-6 acids, this oil tackles signs of photo-ageing.
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
Salicylic acid has long been revered for its blemish-busting properties.
The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
The combination of AHA and BHA ensures a deep cleanse right from the topmost layer of the skin.
The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
A life-saver for parched skin, with an array of amino acids, derma lipids and hyaluronic acid.
The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG
A shot of espresso for your dark circles. The high concentration of caffeine and ECEG provides a blend of antioxidants and anti-inflammatories.
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
This hardworking formula does it all. The Ordinary’s 0.5% Retinol minimises fine lines, reduces pigmentation and revitalises skin.
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
This Glycolic acid toner transforms your skin through exfoliation, boosting radiance and restoring clarity.
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA
Lactic acid is a mild exfoliant with scar-removing properties, reducing pigmentation and improving skin texture.
The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%
This Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid formula brightens, smooths and plumps.
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
This helps your complexion to hold onto moisture for plumper skin.
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
This injects your skin with a dose of vitamin B3, unclogs your pores and reduces the visibility of even the most stubborn spots.
The Ordinary 'Buffet'
Matrixyl 3000 and hyaluronic acid stimulates collagen synthesis and minimise fine lines.
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