Black Wine Experts On Diversity, Representation And Inclusion Within The Industry: Part One

Since the death of George Floyd, people have come together in solidarity protesting, campaigning, donating and more in the name of ending the systemic racism found within the fabric of our society. Seen and unseen, many industries are riddled with inequality, along with an evident lack of diversity. Beyond monetary transactions, a crucial way to support Black-owned businesses is to listen to the experts in their fields who are changing the status quo—leaders who seek ways to make sustained, meaningful change within their wheelhouse.

We spoke to three Black wine experts on their journeys within the industry. From confronting and overcoming social biases and racial injustice to amplifying Black voices on matters of race, representation and inclusion in every aspect of the wine world, here is what they had to say.

Theodora Lee, Owner and Vintner, Theopolis Vineyards

What initially got you interested in the wine industry and what was the catalyst in turning that into a career?

My interest in the wine industry began when I moved to California in the 1980s. When I began practicing law in the 80s, if I needed a law firm partner to review a legal document, I would drive it to that partner’s weekend home. While the partner reviewed the brief, I would be invited to stay for dinner, fine wine and could walk the vineyards. I envisioned owning my own vineyard, which would allow me to combine my love for farming and the outdoors, and become a grape farmer. I fell in love with the wine lifestyle—great wine, great food and being out in the vineyard. 

My dream of being a grape farmer came to reality in 2003 when I planted 5 acres of grapes. Initially, I sold my Petite Sirah to Carlisle Winery, Halcon Vineyards and a few other premium wineries. I was quite content simply being a grower. Then, in 2012, an ill-timed rain fell during harvest and I rushed to pick my grapes at 23 brix. The buyer at that time (no longer Carlisle) had contracted for grapes at 25 brix, so they rejected the entire lot.

Faced with no one willing to purchase fruit at a lower brix level at the last minute, I decided to have my fruit custom-crushed. I then bartered to get the wine produced. Specifically, I gave the winemaker half of my harvest for free, if, in turn, he would process the other half and make my wines. So, that 2012 vintage was bottled in 2014.

Fortunately, my 2012 Petite Sirah received a gold medal from Sunset Magazine and soon thereafter, Theopolis Vineyards was underway. Since then, we have consistently produced 90 + point, Best in Class, Double Gold and Gold Medal wines.

What types of barriers have you experienced due to race and how did you move past them? What’s your advice to others who may be experiencing the same things? 

Well, unfortunately, racism exists in every facet of society, and the wine industry is no exception. The wine industry is a white male dominated one. I have faced barriers finding distributors and getting my wines in high end restaurants and wine bars. However, as a lawyer, I have been fortunate enough to overcome many of these barriers by having my law firm partners introduce me to restaurant and bar owners, and that introduction has facilitated me overcoming those hurdles.

I am happy to state that our wines are carried in some of the finest restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area. I believe in hard work and grit and I never give up. My advice to others is that you must be persistent, persevere and keep going until you get what you deserve. Even though I produce award winning wines, distributors still reject doing business with me.

Recently, one distributor told me he questioned the marketability of one of my varietals. Despite consistent rejection, I keep pounding the pavement. Earlier this year, Southern Glazer's, a premier beverage distributor for world-class wines, picked up our wines for distribution in Florida thanks to the demands of a prominent Florida Restaurant Group. So, as mentioned above, you must be like a dog with a bone and keep pushing.

The number of Black winemakers, winery owners and professionals is comparatively low. What do you think wine companies can be doing better to raise awareness and amplify Black voices in the industry?

To compact racism in the industry, we need to build cultural bridges and have a candid conversation about race. We must confront passive racism, educate everyone about Black history and create diverse and inclusive environments that stand against racism. Wine companies, like every major company in America, need to revisit their anti-discrimination and harassment policies to reiterate a Zero tolerance, train employees, and establish a strategic diversity and inclusion initiative.

Currently, there has been an outpouring of support for Black winemakers, Black winery owners and Black wine professionals. Let’s hope this outpouring of support can be sustained, and is not just a moment, but a momentum. To raise awareness and amplify these Black voices, there must be continued exposure and financial support.

For example, Cooper's Hawk has established a Scholarship for Black American Wine Professionals. The scholarship is designed to assist Black Americans who are passionate about pursuing a career in the wine industry. Also, larger wineries and other wine businesses should support the Association of African American Vintners.

A major issue in the wine world is the lack of diversity. Beyond that, and perhaps more importantly, is that oftentimes even when diversity quotas are met the foundation and support system to help people of color isn’t sufficient enough to ensure lasting success in the industry. What needs to change?

I believe outreach is the key to diversity in the wine industry. Indeed, there are many highly qualified wine professionals available. However, what is the industry doing to uplift and connect with those highly qualified professionals? Perhaps, the industry should consider the Rooney Rule, which is a National Football League policy that requires league teams to interview ethnic-minority candidates for head coaching and senior football operation jobs. It is an example of affirmative action, even though there is no hiring quota or hiring preference given to minorities, only an interviewing quota. 

When it comes to inclusivity in both tasting rooms and the industry side of things, Black people, particularly Black women, are marginalized. If there was one thing that you could set the record straight on, what would that be?

As a Black woman who owns her own winery, when I show up to trade shows or to restaurants or distributors to pitch my wines, most people assume I work for the winery. When I tell them I am Theodora Lee, the owner and vintner of Theopolis Vineyards, they are shocked. However, I persevere and the award winning wines speak for themselves.

To set the record straight, I want everyone to understand that Black women are the backbone of the Black community and were key contributors to the civil rights movement, and will be critical in creating a diverse and inclusive environment in this and every industry. We will not be denied. We are leaders and deserve a seat at the table.

Given America’s current state, people are looking more than ever to support Black businesses, wineries and restaurants. In what ways do you think owners and industry leaders could best contribute to this shift to ensure it remains a conscious effort in people’s minds going forward?

In light of the COVID-19 pandemic, the protests in the wake of the senseless death of George Floyd, and the growing momentum of the Black Lives Matter movement, I believe we have a watershed moment of change. Indeed, on Blackout Tuesday, there was an intense focus on not only Black lives, but Black businesses. As a result, wine sales for Theopolis Vineyards have skyrocketed. Indeed, there has been a massive increase in online sales as everyone is promoting Black businesses and urging support.

The question is whether this is a moment or a momentum. I am optimistic and hopeful. However, we need to stay in the limelight and have proper exposure to remain in the consciousness of everyone going forward. Social media has helped to push this focus on Black business, wineries and restaurants, and we need everyone to keep spotlighting these Black owned businesses, and then “put your money where your mouth is.” Without sustained economic support, Black businesses, like any other business, cannot survive.

Further, I believe industry leaders need to work with the Association of African American Vintners, and help our small wineries not only survive, but thrive through small business loans, partnerships, and the hiring and promotion of qualified Black wine professionals.

On the flip side, do you have advice to consumers who want to support Black-owned businesses, progression and inclusivity past monetary transactions? 

I am happy to state that consumers have embraced Theopolis Vineyards, and have not only purchased our wines, but have taken to social media to support and endorse our brand. These are consumers from all walks of life and all ethnic groups. To create long-term and sustainable change for diversity and inclusion, we need consumers to continue buying our wines.

Additionally, we need consumers to introduce our wines to their friends and work colleagues. Until there is a vaccine for COVID-19, we need consumers to host virtual tastings featuring African American winemakers. We need consumers to look at themselves in the mirror and own their unconscious biases and work to overcome those biases.

We need consumers to see Black wine makers as producers of fine wine and not some affirmative action project. We need consumers to take us seriously, purchase our wine and support organizations that promote social justice and inclusion. We need consumers to tell retailers to carry our wines.  

Brenae Royal, Ranch Leader, Monte Rosso Vineyard, E. & J. Gallo Winery

What initially got you interested in the wine industry and what was the catalyst in turning that into a career?

I became interested in wine by drinking it! In my last year of college, I started drinking Apothic Red and that immediately sparked my interest in learning how to farm it. I have a degree in Crops and Horticulture Science, and while I had never worked with grapevines, I had a strong foundation in farming and knew I could learn viticulture.

At the last career fair in my senior year, I stumbled upon E. & J. Gallo’s recruiting table and there was a magnum of Apothic on the table as a display. I ran up to them to hear about the internship opportunities. Not too long after that, I interviewed and was hired, just one week from graduation, as a vineyard operations intern. That lead me to where I am today.

What types of barriers have you experienced due to race and how did you move past them? What’s your advice to others who may be experiencing the same things?

I haven’t encountered barriers because of race per se, but it is well known that Black people are underrepresented in the field of agriculture. So, I guess it could be looked at as a barrier because there isn’t anyone on my immediate team that looks like me. And that can be daunting. I grew up being one of the few or the only person of color, whether that be when I was in FFA, band or sports.

Early on, I saw it as an advantage because I stood out. And even though I stood out, it wasn’t a negative thing. My advice for anyone who has a similar experience would be to find support with your colleagues. Even though I cannot relate with everything my coworkers do, I feel supported. Don’t let the notion of standing out hold you back.

The number of Black winemakers, winery owners and professionals is comparatively low. What do you think wine companies can be doing better to raise awareness and amplify Black voices in the industry?

I think the best way to amplify Black voices is to hire Black voices. Wine companies should look for and find opportunities to increase diversity in all areas of the business, including management. Create space and opportunities for more diversity in your organization and recognize the value you add by doing so. It’s not just a diversity and inclusion opportunity, but a business opportunity as well.

A major issue in the wine world is the lack of diversity. Beyond that, and perhaps more importantly, is that oftentimes even when diversity quotas are met the foundation and support system to help people of color isn’t sufficient enough to ensure lasting success in the industry. What needs to change?

More diversity is needed across many organizations and many industries. You need diverse talent in order to hire, retain and promote a diverse team. This also means offering critical trainings around unconscious bias, micro aggression, overt and covert racism… etc. Companies need to see the value of adding team members that do not look, think, or act like them. It’s very comfortable for people to work alongside others that have the same views, but the opportunities for growth personally and professionally are limited when doing that.

When it comes to inclusivity in both tasting rooms and the industry side of things, Black people, particularly Black women, are marginalized. If there was one thing that you could set the record straight on, what would that be?

I would use this as an opportunity to engage in a conversation about wine. Ask me questions, the same you would any wine drinker. Don’t judge me based on the color of my skin. Don’t assume I am uneducated about wine or like only sweet wine. Black women drink wine and if we don’t know about something, or want to learn something new, we ask.

Given America’s current state, people are looking more than ever to support Black businesses, wineries and restaurants. In what ways do you think owners and industry leaders could best contribute to this shift to ensure it remains a conscious effort in people’s minds going forward?

I think people need to support businesses because they are good, you want to be there, and there’s a great product being offered. Industry leaders that have major platforms can use this opportunity to promote these businesses with positive reviews and thoughtful attention. Move away from any stereotypes that may be associated with something being Black-owned and support it because it’s a legitimately good business and the services are great.

On the flip side, do you have advice to consumers who want to support Black-owned businesses, progression and inclusivity past monetary transactions?

Tell your friends, colleagues, and everyone about the experience you had. Recommend these businesses. Write reviews. Take your business meetings there. Word of mouth is one of the most effective ways you can a promote businesses you like and appreciate.

Marvina Robinson, Owner, Stuyvesant Champagne

What initially got you interested in the wine industry and what was the catalyst in turning that into a career?

I actually did not set out to be in the wine industry. I am opening a champagne bar (now on pause due to COVID), in which I wanted to have my own private label champagne. As I began the research and process I became more intrigued and made the decision to expand the brand to retail. 

What types of barriers have you experienced due to race and how did you move past them? What’s your advice to others who may be experiencing the same things?

At some events I've attended, the room lacked diversity with only two to four Black professionals in the room in which I am sometimes the only Black female present. When I first started out, I was shunned here and there or I was told you cannot have your own champagne brand, it's not attainable (by one specific individual).

I literally looked at this person, with a straight face and sarcastically said, “OK” but in my head I was saying "you evidently do not know me." Comments like that further motivate me, I believe all goals are attainable some may have more obstacles and take a little longer but never give up. 

The number of Black winemakers, winery owners and professionals is comparatively low. What do you think wine companies can be doing better to raise awareness and amplify Black voices in the industry?

I believe larger wine companies can use their platforms (in which some are doing now) to highlight Black winemakers, owners and professionals, help inform consumers who might not have known about the Black voices in the industry.

To be honest, sometimes it is the companies with the larger platforms to educate consumers. I personally reached out to certain companies about B. Stuyvesant Champagne and no response, only recently have I began to receive responses, write-ups and acknowledgement. 

A major issue in the wine world is the lack of diversity. Beyond that, and perhaps more importantly, is that oftentimes even when diversity quotas are met the foundation and support system to help people of color isn’t sufficient enough to ensure lasting success in the industry. What needs to change?

I despise that the color of my skin puts me in a "quota" category. If it can exist, be color-blind, just embrace a fellow wine professional. I personally do not care what your ethnicity is. I just want swap knowledge, learn from others and share my views and knowledge on the industry. I'm open to partnerships, bridge the gap and help educate many on the wine industry. 

When it comes to inclusivity in both tasting rooms and the industry side of things, Black people, particularly Black women, are marginalized. If there was one thing that you could set the record straight on, what would that be?

From a Black woman perspective, we are not insignificant, versus judging by one’s physical attributes take the time to have an open conversation and do not speak down to us as if we are not intelligent.

To share a personal experience, I attended a professional conference and was making my way around the room, I ended up in a conversation with two gentlemen. There are times that I am so excited and enthused about a topic that I stutter, the gentlemen made the poor decision in thinking I did not know how to pronounce a word and made a bad joke.

I quickly had to correct him, educate him professionally and highlight where he made the conversation condescending. There should be no pre-judgements and we are all in the same industry, learning and educating. Nobody knows everything. 

Given America’s current state, people are looking more than ever to support Black businesses, wineries and restaurants. In what ways do you think owners and industry leaders could best contribute to this shift to ensure it remains a conscious effort in people’s minds going forward?

This is not a fad. Black businesses and wineries are not going anywhere. We have always existed and it would be great that industry leaders and consumers keep this same energy! In my opinion, it is harder for a Black business to open, remain open, eventually expand and succeed. So yes, support Black businesses and pertaining to the wine industry awareness of Black owned wineries just began, we are small but growing… we need to enhance the diversity of the wine industry. 

On the flip side, do you have advice to consumers who want to support Black-owned businesses, progression and inclusivity past monetary transactions?

For consumers who want to support Black-owned businesses, like Nike's slogan "Just Do It". In addition to monetary support, talk about Black owned businesses, post pictures, articles, referrals, and leave a review. Stores such as Target, Amazon, Walmart, Costco, BJ's, Sam's Club (just to name a few) expand out and carry additional Black owned products.