What trips are on your life list? For many of us, such a list might include climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, walking the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route or exploring Machu Picchu. Then there’s trekking to base camp at Mt. Everest, which happens to be is high on my list. Because let’s face it, it’s as close as 99.9% of us will ever get to that fabled 29,029-foot peak.
So while there are plenty of guides who can get you there, REI Adventures has designed a 19-day Everest Base Camp Trek trip and made it an affordable and readily bookable option. I recently had a chance to speak with Jeff Stivers, REI Adventures program manager of Asia, Africa, and Pacific, to ask him more about the Everest Base Camp Trek.
Jeff, while it’s obviously not an ascent of Mt. Everest, this trip is clearly a pretty strenuous outing. How fit do you have to be to enjoy it?
Trekkers should be experienced hikers in good physical condition, comfortable hiking five to six hours daily over uneven, rocky and frequently steep terrain. They should also be comfortable camping and sleeping in a tent for multiple nights. No technical climbing is involved. The route includes many sections of stone stairs and there is very little level walking. We also spend considerable time at altitudes between 11,000 and 17,100 feet, which makes hiking more strenuous.
Is there any kind of exercise regimen that you suggest?
We recommend beginning a conditioning regimen at least three months prior to departure. Start with three-hour hikes on varied terrain and gradually progress to hikes lasting up to 8 hours. Attempt to incorporate steeper sections into your hikes, with elevation gains and losses ranging from 1,000 to 2,700 feet as you work up. Rest in between hiking days as you work up to longer hikes. Consider adding stair climbing to your exercise routine, as many of the days entail ascending and descending hundreds of stone steps. Another great resource to help you prepare is REI’s Outdoor School, where you can check out classes and outings near you. REI also offers online Expert Advice with hundreds of articles and videos.
What are the accommodations like?
While trekking, our accommodations are a combination of camping and rustic mountain lodges/tea houses. The lodges/tea houses are basic traditional lodgings with two beds per room. The rooms are not heated and can get very cold, however, while the dining area is heated through traditional means. Some rooms may have private bathrooms but most have shared bathrooms. Squat toilets are very common but some accommodations will have western-style toilets. Showers are almost exclusively passive solar heated, so hot water is rare. Expect lukewarm or even cold water. Our campsites consist of three-person tents (two people assigned per tent for sleeping), a dining tent, and a toilet tent. Tent dimensions are approximately 7’x 6’x 3.5’.
And the food? I have memories of endless and pretty unvarying meals of Dal Baht - rice and lentils - when I trekked in Nepal. Are meals prepared on the trail or do you eat in tea houses?
Our team prepares hot meals three times a day, including lunch on the trail. We may eat some meals at tea houses, but our private cooks prepare all meals so we offer more variety and higher quality than a solo traveler would get eating at tea houses. The cook team sources as many fresh vegetables as possible from local gardens so it is not uncommon to have cucumbers or lettuce. Overall the food is relatively simple and our cooks do their best to add variety. Guests can expect pizza, amazing broth soups, traditional momos (local dumplings), even French fries and garlic bread to name a few. Dal Baht will be available at every meal as well since it is commonly eaten by Nepali people at almost every meal. For breakfast we have a hot oatmeal porridge, toast with peanut butter and jelly and eggs to order.
How high do you actually get on this trek and how do have your guests deal with potential altitude sickness?
Everest Base Camp is located at 17,600 feet and we also do an optional hike up to Kala Patar at 18,510 feet. Our guides are well trained for managing altitude illness and health issues and are a tremendous resource for trekkers in maintaining health and strength while ascending. We trek up at a slow pace, with periodic rest days to allow for acclimatization, and we recommend trekkers speak with their travel doctor about traveling in Nepal and trekking at altitude prior to joining us.
Weather-wise, when do you recommend going for the best and clearest weather?
There are two ideal "weather windows" for Nepal. From the latter half of March until the first part of May, temperatures are relatively warm, 10° to 15° warmer than in the fall. Mornings are bright and clear with the air slowly becoming hazier as the day progresses. The rhododendron forests in springtime are spectacular. June is warm and green with very few other trekkers – the sense of solitude is much greater than in other seasons. However, it is more likely to include rain showers, hazy skies, wet and muddy trail conditions, and possible flight delays. Afternoon rain showers do occur in June and mountain views can be limited.
The fall season, the latter half of October through December is an ideal time for the best mountain views. The days are typically sunny and clear with moderate temperatures and the evenings are usually quite cold. Nights may reach 0° temperatures with a 50% chance of some snow anytime above the 13,000-foot level. During the day, above 15,000 feet, do not anticipate temperatures above 35°. Again, since your body is taking in less than half its normal supply of oxygen, 32° will feel colder than we are accustomed to at home.
Are you trekking during the climbing season, and meeting teams who are intent upon climbing Everest?
Yes, we do operate hikes during the Everest climbing season (typically April – May), and while we may pass climbing groups on the trail, we make it a point to avoid disturbing climbers at the climbers’ basecamp to limit exposure to potential illness and allow climbers ample time and space to prepare.
What sort of specialized gear do you recommend?
You can refer to the gear list on our site as each of the items listed as required we view as critical to your success during the trek. Perhaps most important is the quality of warm weather gear you bring to stay comfortable in cold and windy conditions. A good sleeping bag, good layering system for warmth, good sun protection (since UV is much stronger at altitude) and effective wind protection for the face and hands, along with good sunglasses are all a must!
What is the scene like at Everest Base Camp and do you actually see the summit?
To avoid imposing on climbers’ preparations and further crowding conditions at base camp, we observe the scene at the climber’s camp from a short distance away. At the base of the Khumbu Icefall, where the climber’s basecamp is located, one has views up the icefall, the start of the climbing route, and can often see all the way up to the Col, with great views of the surrounding peaks. The Everest summit pyramid can be obscured by a nearby sub-peak, so we hike to the summit of nearby Kala Patthar for the most epic 360-degree views of the Everest massif and surrounding peaks, including Nuptse, Lhotse, Pumori and more.
Is there a spiritual component to this journey?
The Khumbu region is steeped in the rich Sherpa culture, where an ancient form of Buddhism brought over from Tibet long ago is practiced in its traditional form today. We visit monasteries along the route filled with traditional paintings and implements of worship and spiritual practice where we can learn about local beliefs and traditions along the way. We also visit the largest monastery in the Khumbu, Tengboche, home to the largest group of practicing monks in the area, where we often have the chance to observe traditional worship such as chanting meditation in person. There is a strong sense of community, generosity and spiritual significance everywhere one goes in the Khumbu, and for many, it is an unexpected highlight of an already spectacular experience like no other.
Everest Base Camp Trek is priced at $4,839 ($4,399 for members) from REI Adventures
