The 2000-Plus Mile, 16-Day Road Trip For Car Connoisseurs
Town & Country contributing editor Gillian Hearst Simonds embarks on the ultimate cross-country driving adventure.
By Gillian Hearst and None
Town & Country contributing editor Gillian Hearst Simonds embarks on the ultimate cross-country driving adventure.
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1Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
I appreciate cars—the sleek lines, the well placed chrome details glinting in the sun, the gorgeous interiors- but my knowledge of cars is limited to refilling the washer fluid, putting unleaded into gas tank, and once being called upon to jump start a car, which I did. Beyond putting gas in the car none of my other "skills" would be called upon during the 2000+ mile, 16-day adventure that will take us from Santa Fe, NM to Half Moon Bay, CA. The Jewel Event trips are organized by chairman, Jonathon Lyons, and bring together car enthusiasts who also love travel, and his events merge the two seamlessly. This was to be our first trip away from our little girl and one of my father's last trips, but it wasn't until the luncheon at San Simeon I had found out that after a bad diagnosis from his doctor my father had rung up Jonathon in mid-December to let him know that he wouldn't be able to make the trip. To us my father only insisted that one way or the other we went on the trip, and so on March 27 my husband, my mother and I boarded the plane to Santa Fe. The next day the three of us, climbed into our 1999 Bentley Arnage, to begin a two-week trip through the Southwest and up the west coast. A promise that we kept to my father and a once in a lifetime experience.
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2Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 1
We pack up the car in New York and head for Westchester airport for the first leg of our Flight Options trip to Santa Fe. After a brief stop to refuel at the Spirit of St. Louis FBO, we continued Southwest to Santa Fe. Winds made for a bumpy and slightly hairy landing, but we safely made it to the ground. En route to the Four Seasons Encantado Resort we enjoyed the beautiful landscape of New Mexico. Upon arrival we bumped into the event chairman and our fearless leader, Jonathon Lyons, before we settled into our lovely casitas, which were spacious and comfortable. For dinner we headed into Santa Fe and tried the highly recommended Geronimo restaurant. What a fabulous choice! As we enjoyed the lovely décor and attentive staff, we started with an amuse bouche of mushroom soup, before devouring what might have been the best foie gras appetizer My entrée was the signature marinated elk tenderloin, which was also superb. The evening ended with a bit of sweetness provided by the apple-cinnamon bread pudding before we took a driving tour of Santa Fe.
Day 2
The following morning we grabbed our nametags and our Jewel jackets before heading to collect our keys and rev our engines. We had a 14 police car escort to bring us around the Santa Fe area so the roadbook stayed shelved, but it will be indispensible over the days to come. On a side note, my mother's difficulty in making any sense of the roadbook would entertain me endlessly in the days to come! It was as though she was reading something in a foreign language, and she never did get the hang of how to read it. Traffic was stopped for us in all directions, and while most of the drivers seemed amused to see 21+ cars, mostly Bentleys and Rolls-Royces dating from 1950-2013, rolling down the road in order from oldest to newest I'm sure some drivers were a bit irked. We set off from the Four Seasons for Madrid, NM via the Turquoise Trail (State Highway 14). Located in the Ortiz Mountains miners came to Madrid for the coal rich hills in the 1850's, and the city is a recovering ghost town that has become an artists community. The caravan parked briefly at the Mineshaft Tavern, a nod to the towns history so the drivers and passengers could stretch before we continued to Eaves Movie Ranch.
We pack up the car in New York and head for Westchester airport for the first leg of our Flight Options trip to Santa Fe. After a brief stop to refuel at the Spirit of St. Louis FBO, we continued Southwest to Santa Fe. Winds made for a bumpy and slightly hairy landing, but we safely made it to the ground. En route to the Four Seasons Encantado Resort we enjoyed the beautiful landscape of New Mexico. Upon arrival we bumped into the event chairman and our fearless leader, Jonathon Lyons, before we settled into our lovely casitas, which were spacious and comfortable. For dinner we headed into Santa Fe and tried the highly recommended Geronimo restaurant. What a fabulous choice! As we enjoyed the lovely décor and attentive staff, we started with an amuse bouche of mushroom soup, before devouring what might have been the best foie gras appetizer My entrée was the signature marinated elk tenderloin, which was also superb. The evening ended with a bit of sweetness provided by the apple-cinnamon bread pudding before we took a driving tour of Santa Fe.
Day 2
The following morning we grabbed our nametags and our Jewel jackets before heading to collect our keys and rev our engines. We had a 14 police car escort to bring us around the Santa Fe area so the roadbook stayed shelved, but it will be indispensible over the days to come. On a side note, my mother's difficulty in making any sense of the roadbook would entertain me endlessly in the days to come! It was as though she was reading something in a foreign language, and she never did get the hang of how to read it. Traffic was stopped for us in all directions, and while most of the drivers seemed amused to see 21+ cars, mostly Bentleys and Rolls-Royces dating from 1950-2013, rolling down the road in order from oldest to newest I'm sure some drivers were a bit irked. We set off from the Four Seasons for Madrid, NM via the Turquoise Trail (State Highway 14). Located in the Ortiz Mountains miners came to Madrid for the coal rich hills in the 1850's, and the city is a recovering ghost town that has become an artists community. The caravan parked briefly at the Mineshaft Tavern, a nod to the towns history so the drivers and passengers could stretch before we continued to Eaves Movie Ranch.
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3Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 3
Suitcases outside the door and 9AM departure for the first leg of our trip—207 miles through Albuquerque and onward to El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, NM. The El Rancho was built on Route 66 in 1937 by the brother of Hollywood director D.W. Griffith, and served as a home base for numerous movie stars, such as John Wayne and Spencer Tracy, while they filmed in the area. After lunch and some off the book investigating of some rooms, specifically the Ronald Reagan Presidential Suite and the Kirk Douglas room, it was time to hop back on the road and head through the Petrified Forest National State Park and to Winslow, AZ. Toward sundown we arrived at the La Posada Hotel, which was built the by the Fred Harvey Company for the Santa Fe Railroad in 1929. At the time the property cost over $1 million, which would be the equivalent of $40 million today and was designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who was one of the few female architects at the time. If you don't know about the Harvey Girls and their history you can enjoy a fun look at it by watching MGM's Judy Garland movie "The Harvey Girls".
Though the hotel closed in 1957 and after being gutted the building was converted to offices for the Santa Fe Railroad and nearly demolished until 1997 when Allan Affeldt purchased and saved the property. It is now renovated and a working Amtrak station. It's a charming property, and the Turquoise Room restaurant is fabulous. I had the pork carnitas, which I can highly recommend. If you find yourself down in the area it's worth spending a night, though be aware that trains go by throughout the evening. Coming from NY with sirens and horns the trains didn't disturb me at all, but ask for a room overlooking the front patio, I stayed in the Doublemint Twins room. Affeldt must have enjoyed the restoration and revival of La Posada because in April 2014 he purchased 1898 Las Vegas, New Mexico and also Fred Harvey house La Casteneda, which he plans to save just as he did with La Posada.
Suitcases outside the door and 9AM departure for the first leg of our trip—207 miles through Albuquerque and onward to El Rancho Hotel in Gallup, NM. The El Rancho was built on Route 66 in 1937 by the brother of Hollywood director D.W. Griffith, and served as a home base for numerous movie stars, such as John Wayne and Spencer Tracy, while they filmed in the area. After lunch and some off the book investigating of some rooms, specifically the Ronald Reagan Presidential Suite and the Kirk Douglas room, it was time to hop back on the road and head through the Petrified Forest National State Park and to Winslow, AZ. Toward sundown we arrived at the La Posada Hotel, which was built the by the Fred Harvey Company for the Santa Fe Railroad in 1929. At the time the property cost over $1 million, which would be the equivalent of $40 million today and was designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who was one of the few female architects at the time. If you don't know about the Harvey Girls and their history you can enjoy a fun look at it by watching MGM's Judy Garland movie "The Harvey Girls".
Though the hotel closed in 1957 and after being gutted the building was converted to offices for the Santa Fe Railroad and nearly demolished until 1997 when Allan Affeldt purchased and saved the property. It is now renovated and a working Amtrak station. It's a charming property, and the Turquoise Room restaurant is fabulous. I had the pork carnitas, which I can highly recommend. If you find yourself down in the area it's worth spending a night, though be aware that trains go by throughout the evening. Coming from NY with sirens and horns the trains didn't disturb me at all, but ask for a room overlooking the front patio, I stayed in the Doublemint Twins room. Affeldt must have enjoyed the restoration and revival of La Posada because in April 2014 he purchased 1898 Las Vegas, New Mexico and also Fred Harvey house La Casteneda, which he plans to save just as he did with La Posada.
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4Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 4
8:30 AM: We hit the road heading for the Meteor Crater just outside of Winslow. The group managed to get some pictures from the top observation deck before it was closed due to winds gusting over 70 mph. I must say that it was awfully hard to stand, but it was a pretty spectacular hole in the ground.
We continued west on I-40 before jumping onto Historic Route 66 to Seligman, AZ. For lunch we dined on burgers at the Roadkill Café. After some photos at the Hackberry General Store our party continued to Las Vegas. My car took a brief detour to go see the Hoover Dam before arriving at the Wynn Towers. It was a lowkey night of sorting through laundry.
8:30 AM: We hit the road heading for the Meteor Crater just outside of Winslow. The group managed to get some pictures from the top observation deck before it was closed due to winds gusting over 70 mph. I must say that it was awfully hard to stand, but it was a pretty spectacular hole in the ground.
We continued west on I-40 before jumping onto Historic Route 66 to Seligman, AZ. For lunch we dined on burgers at the Roadkill Café. After some photos at the Hackberry General Store our party continued to Las Vegas. My car took a brief detour to go see the Hoover Dam before arriving at the Wynn Towers. It was a lowkey night of sorting through laundry.
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5Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 5
5:50 AM departure for the Veuve Clicquot breakfast on the rim of the Grand Canyon and a flyover of the Hoover Dam.
5:50 AM departure for the Veuve Clicquot breakfast on the rim of the Grand Canyon and a flyover of the Hoover Dam.
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6Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 5 (continued)
I was too pregnant to take part in the helicopter ride or the champagne so I enjoyed a relaxing breakfast at Tableau followed by an expectant mother massage and a signature pedicure at the Wynn spa—both were spectacular and I was back before the group had lifted off from the Grand Canyon. I think the afternoon will include lunch, some Michael Jackson slot machine and some shopping before we attend La Reve tonight. Dinner will be held at Sinatra's.
I was too pregnant to take part in the helicopter ride or the champagne so I enjoyed a relaxing breakfast at Tableau followed by an expectant mother massage and a signature pedicure at the Wynn spa—both were spectacular and I was back before the group had lifted off from the Grand Canyon. I think the afternoon will include lunch, some Michael Jackson slot machine and some shopping before we attend La Reve tonight. Dinner will be held at Sinatra's.
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7Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 6
Off to Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica, CA. We decided to forgo the trip to Death Valley and set off on our own to Santa Monica. Our trip took us along I-15 and to the ghost town of Calico. The town was founded in 1881 and produced more than $20 million in silver. Due to the Panic of 1893, caused by silver flooding the market, silver lost its value and miners abandoned the town. It was not until Walter Knott purchased the town in the 1950s that it was restored to its former 1880's glory, and in 2005 Governor Schwarzenegger proclaimed it to be California's Silver Rush Ghost Town. After some high-jinks at Calico we did a drive-by of Peggy Sue's 1950s Diner.
Off to Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica, CA. We decided to forgo the trip to Death Valley and set off on our own to Santa Monica. Our trip took us along I-15 and to the ghost town of Calico. The town was founded in 1881 and produced more than $20 million in silver. Due to the Panic of 1893, caused by silver flooding the market, silver lost its value and miners abandoned the town. It was not until Walter Knott purchased the town in the 1950s that it was restored to its former 1880's glory, and in 2005 Governor Schwarzenegger proclaimed it to be California's Silver Rush Ghost Town. After some high-jinks at Calico we did a drive-by of Peggy Sue's 1950s Diner.
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8Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 7
The next morning we took an end of Route 66 picture and strolled down the beach, the start of Route 66 pic had been taken at the Continental Divide. After a casual stroll down the Santa Monica pier we walked down to the beach and began heading back to the hotel. That evening we drove to the mountains above Malibu to the home of John Paul DeJoria and his wonderful wife, Eloise. We were greeted by the Mariachi Divas, an all female mariachi band who won their second Grammy for Best Regional Mexican Album in 2014. We watched the sunset from the DeJoria's stunning home while sipping specialty Patron cocktails before we gathered in the living room for dinner. The food was fabulous, and after introductions two singers performed and dessert was served the evening wound to a close.
The next morning we took an end of Route 66 picture and strolled down the beach, the start of Route 66 pic had been taken at the Continental Divide. After a casual stroll down the Santa Monica pier we walked down to the beach and began heading back to the hotel. That evening we drove to the mountains above Malibu to the home of John Paul DeJoria and his wonderful wife, Eloise. We were greeted by the Mariachi Divas, an all female mariachi band who won their second Grammy for Best Regional Mexican Album in 2014. We watched the sunset from the DeJoria's stunning home while sipping specialty Patron cocktails before we gathered in the living room for dinner. The food was fabulous, and after introductions two singers performed and dessert was served the evening wound to a close.
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9Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 8
Back on the road, the finish line today will be my favorite hotel, the Four Seasons Santa Barbara the Biltmore, but our mid-day trip included a stop and private tour of the Mullin Automotive museum and lunch at the Herzog winery restaurant, Tierra Sur. The Mullin museum had a stunning display titled, "The Art of Bugatti". My favorite in the collection was the electric Type 52 "Baby" Bugatti. For a mere $100,000 or so your child could have one, of if you were a lucky Bugatti owner you received one with the purchase of your adult Bugatti. The hotel has recently undergone some renovations but they were all subtle changes. We were greeted with the 'make your own margarita platter", which is the perfect way to toast arriving at such a lovely location.
Back on the road, the finish line today will be my favorite hotel, the Four Seasons Santa Barbara the Biltmore, but our mid-day trip included a stop and private tour of the Mullin Automotive museum and lunch at the Herzog winery restaurant, Tierra Sur. The Mullin museum had a stunning display titled, "The Art of Bugatti". My favorite in the collection was the electric Type 52 "Baby" Bugatti. For a mere $100,000 or so your child could have one, of if you were a lucky Bugatti owner you received one with the purchase of your adult Bugatti. The hotel has recently undergone some renovations but they were all subtle changes. We were greeted with the 'make your own margarita platter", which is the perfect way to toast arriving at such a lovely location.
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10Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 9
We ate breakfast overlooking Butterfly Beach and the Channel Islands. I didn't want to leave without seeing dolphins swimming by, and I was not disappointed. They made their morning appearance when I was getting the check. We left a bit before the rest of the group so we could get to the Dairy Barn at San Simeon to make sure everything was all set for our lunch that day since we were playing host. As we came over the ridge to the barn we happened to see a sambar deer, a large Asian deer that WR had imported. I think it was a nod to my father because he always used to tell stories about them, and it was almost his way of telling us that he was there with us that day as they are very rarely spotted by visitors to property. This was a trip he had wanted to go on and talked about up until his last days. Once he realized that he wouldn't be able to join us he made us promise that we would still go ahead with it.
Courtney, who helps run the property, did a magnificent job and everything was perfect. Luis Ortega band performed, Hearst Ranch wines were served and the group all arrived. After a lunch, which included Hearst Ranch steak and grilled quail, we jumped in our cars to go up to the Senator's house for a tour before hitting the road again. We would be driving up the coast for the rest of the afternoon, but we took a brief stop at Elephant Seal Vista Point to peek at the seals in the molting period, which goes from mid-March to September. Once we were back on Highway 1 we enjoyed the beautiful landscape and the winding roads as we went through Big Sur, stopped at the Nepenthe House, which mom hadn't been to since she was in college, and continued to head north to L'Auberge Carmel, our final destination that day.
Day 10
Christian and I decided to explore Carmel a bit, so we had a breakfast date at the Cottage. After a meal by the fireplace we made our way back to the hotel, and he and mom prepared for a short driving tour of Carmel and Monterey with lunch on Pebble Beach. The three of us enjoyed a fabulous meal at Aubergine at the L'Auberge Carmel. From the one perfect oyster with caviar to the nougat chocolate dessert, every item on tasting menu was superb! Go, you will not be disappointed.
We ate breakfast overlooking Butterfly Beach and the Channel Islands. I didn't want to leave without seeing dolphins swimming by, and I was not disappointed. They made their morning appearance when I was getting the check. We left a bit before the rest of the group so we could get to the Dairy Barn at San Simeon to make sure everything was all set for our lunch that day since we were playing host. As we came over the ridge to the barn we happened to see a sambar deer, a large Asian deer that WR had imported. I think it was a nod to my father because he always used to tell stories about them, and it was almost his way of telling us that he was there with us that day as they are very rarely spotted by visitors to property. This was a trip he had wanted to go on and talked about up until his last days. Once he realized that he wouldn't be able to join us he made us promise that we would still go ahead with it.
Courtney, who helps run the property, did a magnificent job and everything was perfect. Luis Ortega band performed, Hearst Ranch wines were served and the group all arrived. After a lunch, which included Hearst Ranch steak and grilled quail, we jumped in our cars to go up to the Senator's house for a tour before hitting the road again. We would be driving up the coast for the rest of the afternoon, but we took a brief stop at Elephant Seal Vista Point to peek at the seals in the molting period, which goes from mid-March to September. Once we were back on Highway 1 we enjoyed the beautiful landscape and the winding roads as we went through Big Sur, stopped at the Nepenthe House, which mom hadn't been to since she was in college, and continued to head north to L'Auberge Carmel, our final destination that day.
Day 10
Christian and I decided to explore Carmel a bit, so we had a breakfast date at the Cottage. After a meal by the fireplace we made our way back to the hotel, and he and mom prepared for a short driving tour of Carmel and Monterey with lunch on Pebble Beach. The three of us enjoyed a fabulous meal at Aubergine at the L'Auberge Carmel. From the one perfect oyster with caviar to the nougat chocolate dessert, every item on tasting menu was superb! Go, you will not be disappointed.
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11Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 11 and 12
We drive to San Francisco, where we will spend two nights. Christian will be arriving late because he will be playing Pebble Beach in the morning—an offer he couldn't refuse. A friend of the rally hosted us all for cocktails and charcuterie at her home on Lombard Street before we all returned to Mission Street for dinner will be at Salt House. The following day we enjoyed the scenery of San Francisco and a day outside the car.
Day 13
Off to Napa, which would certainly be a much more thrilling idea if I were not 7 months along with my second child. We crossed the city and headed for the Golden Gate Bridge. We then turned onto 1 to go through Bolinas Bay, the Mt. Tamalpais Watershed and Point Reyes National Seashore before cutting inland on Point Reyes Petaluma Road to Sonoma where we stopped at Keller Vineyard for lunch. We are staying at LEED Platinum certified property Bardessono in Yountville. The greenest property in the world boasts wood from salvaged trees and stone blocks from an old wine cellar among the recycled goods used in its design, and geothermal wells heat and cool the 62 airy all-suite guest rooms, where everything from the bed linens to the cleaning products are organic. Dinner was at Redd.
We drive to San Francisco, where we will spend two nights. Christian will be arriving late because he will be playing Pebble Beach in the morning—an offer he couldn't refuse. A friend of the rally hosted us all for cocktails and charcuterie at her home on Lombard Street before we all returned to Mission Street for dinner will be at Salt House. The following day we enjoyed the scenery of San Francisco and a day outside the car.
Day 13
Off to Napa, which would certainly be a much more thrilling idea if I were not 7 months along with my second child. We crossed the city and headed for the Golden Gate Bridge. We then turned onto 1 to go through Bolinas Bay, the Mt. Tamalpais Watershed and Point Reyes National Seashore before cutting inland on Point Reyes Petaluma Road to Sonoma where we stopped at Keller Vineyard for lunch. We are staying at LEED Platinum certified property Bardessono in Yountville. The greenest property in the world boasts wood from salvaged trees and stone blocks from an old wine cellar among the recycled goods used in its design, and geothermal wells heat and cool the 62 airy all-suite guest rooms, where everything from the bed linens to the cleaning products are organic. Dinner was at Redd.
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12Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 14
As ralliers enjoyed a mid-morning wine tasting followed by lunch at 3-Michelin star restaurant Meadowood. Christian and mom did a drop in of Schrambsberg hoping to squeeze in a sparkling wine tasting, or at the very least buy some bubbly. I on the other hand had a 90-minute prenatal massage and a 15-minute head and scalp massage in the room at Bardessono.
As ralliers enjoyed a mid-morning wine tasting followed by lunch at 3-Michelin star restaurant Meadowood. Christian and mom did a drop in of Schrambsberg hoping to squeeze in a sparkling wine tasting, or at the very least buy some bubbly. I on the other hand had a 90-minute prenatal massage and a 15-minute head and scalp massage in the room at Bardessono.
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13Media Platforms Design Team
Jewel of North America Trip
Day 15
Morning drive to the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay. Leisurely day before the good-bye dinner that evening. Leo had created a beautiful slideshow that brought us through a photo journey of the trip. Afterward we were each given a badge for our car as a memento from our trip. So now we have the badge, we just need the Bentley to put it on.
Day 16
11:00 AM: We fly back to NYC! It has been a long trip, but absolutely amazing. I miss our little one so much, though, I think I'm not going to be able to put her down for hours so she's going to have to put up with lots of kisses and hugs.
Morning drive to the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay. Leisurely day before the good-bye dinner that evening. Leo had created a beautiful slideshow that brought us through a photo journey of the trip. Afterward we were each given a badge for our car as a memento from our trip. So now we have the badge, we just need the Bentley to put it on.
Day 16
11:00 AM: We fly back to NYC! It has been a long trip, but absolutely amazing. I miss our little one so much, though, I think I'm not going to be able to put her down for hours so she's going to have to put up with lots of kisses and hugs.
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